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Dominican Republic Side Trip
20131020-20131103

When traveling we can't help but notice differences between countries, cities, their peoples and culture, etc. Regardless, we find many similarities along the way with many nice surprises.

With aVida safe at Bocas Marina in Panama, we took a side trip to Dominican Republic. It was Mark's birthday week and just a good excuse to see one of the islands in the Eastern Caribbean we missed when we voyaged west this past year - a beautiful one we were told.

DR is surprisingly very similar to Cuba - we saw why many movies portraying Cuba were made here. It is the second largest island of the Caribbean following Cuba sharing its western region with the country of Haiti, and named after the Dominican monks who dominated the area at one time.

DR is also similar to Cuba as being the first of the islands in the Americas founded by Christopher Columbus on his first voyage; and in its terrain with lovely beaches on the coast, rolling hills inland with thick rainforests, plantations of coconut palms, rice patties, tobacco and sugar cane fields. Lots of Latin music everywhere specifically Merengue and Bachata, cigar manufacturers, Ron (rum) drinks mid day and into the night, roadside Paradors (family owned restos), Spanish courtyards, a history of dictatorship, Pesos or lack of, poverty, a people packed Chinatown who are not Chinese, many orphan dogs, trash filled curbs, decaying old stone buildings, mangled power lines that are an electricians worst nightmare, and most of all very friendly American-loving people. Lots of similarities, minus the preponderance of 1950s USA vehicles, the street beggars, coco taxis, and the remaining Chavez, Castro, Raul propaganda ruling the constrained economy of Cuba. This is an open society.

So we left Bocas; just an hour flight with a nights stay at the comfy Hard Rock Hotel in Panama City. This hotel is adjacent to a casino with weekend salsa music that actually pays out. Little did we know that we would lose money elsewhere instead of the casino. That afternoon and evening each of us tried to withdraw up to $500 at 3 different Panama ATMs. Each time we received no money but just an error saying transaction failed and to call your bank. The next day we spent hundreds of dollars on our cell phones to dispute the charges as they showed the transactions went through. Okay, so potentially we lost $2500 and not by playing those fun slots. TBD.

We took a several hour very turbulent bumpy flight from Panama City over to DRs capital city Santo Domingo - one of those flights where you actually remember the Hail Mary. We lodged 2 nights at the former residence of the city's founder/governor Nicolas de Ovando dating back to 1502 - actually called Hostal Nicholas. But this was no Hostal as we know it - rather a luxurious palace hidden behind a 16th century gothic porch with stone walls, patios, and interior fountains. Nestled in the Zona Colonial (Old Town) this residence was built on Las Damas street - the first Main Street built in the entire Americas; along the Ozama River (meaning deep water), this was undoubtedly the best hotel in Santo Domingo yet reasonably priced. Santo Domingo also boasts the first Hospital, church, government building, customs' house, prison, etc. ever built from stone in the Americas.

We spent our one full day touring the city by foot then with car to the surrounding newer suburbs and then by a small native boat through caves and caverns opening up to a large pond which reminded us of a Jurassic park discovery. Our guide Angel was thankfully English speaking and very knowledgeable educating us about dates and names of the historical events, and then testing us later actually expecting us to remember them. We learned a lot, but forgot some.

That same evening we walked to the nearby Plaza for dinner and stumbled on an outdoor event filled with Latin music dancers in traditional costume and hundreds of people watching. When the costumed dancers came off the stage past us, I was approached by a male pro dancer and Mark was approached three times by different female pro dancers. We danced with them for a while until it was only the 4 of us dancing, and we danced a bit wild. Then the pros left us and it was only the 2 of us, dancing in front of the crowd. Well, we may not be professional Merengue dancers but as we exited the stage we both witnessed many thumbs up and received THE largest applauds from the crowd we ever have had. What a nice surprise.

We moved on north seaside via a several hour comfortable bus ride to the Samana peninsula lodging at a beachfront resort off the colorful town of Las Terranes called Hotel Alisei. I purposely booked lodging in this area because it reflects the authentic, wilder Dominican Republic with pristine beaches and coves and small native towns as opposed to the popular resort filled Punta Canta on the southeast coast. We enjoyed our stay immensely. We rented an ATV and toured the other nearby beaches, walked to the town for a live local beach band with dancing and suffered through a couple's massage. The water was clear, warm, sandy, with clean beaches, and weather was hot and humid. We planned to do some snorkeling on our last day but unfortunately it rained all day, so we took the opportunity to just relax in our room, stop the running, and read AND finished our books, and played cards.

Next destination over the bay of Samana south to an eco lodge Paraiso Cano Hondo - planted within a rainforest on the edge of a national park, Las Haitites. Wow. What a trip.

We hired a small local speed boat to take us across the bay in an hour ride then into a thin winding entrance through the mangroves and a 10 min walk to our lodge. This lodge was incredible. A complex of est 20 some bungalows built with dripping meticulously formed stone formations reminiscent of Gaudi architecture. Intertwined in the main area were 11 natural spring waterfalls and pools created from the towering mountains' unending flowing rivers all around and through the resort. Too chilly to swim for me but refreshing for Mark.

Since it was low season we had the entire place to ourselves plus the staff and a family of three short legged dogs with sad eyes but very well fed.

We spent the next day on a hiking tour with the only English speaking staff, and the dogs. His name was Miseal and quite a fine young man. He lives with his family of four generations but has an aspiring ambition of creating a tourism website and business, and his Polish girlfriend who lives in Rome now will come soon to live with him here in DR. He guided us by way of a hiking tour through the rainforest and several mountainous areas in the largest of DRs national parks called Haitines. Apparently this area was inhabited by natives where a railroad existed to transport goods. The government ousted the locals and expanded the park 10 fold to grow and protect the flora and fauna. Miseal actually volunteered for many years planting mangrove seedlings and learning about the vegetation. What a way to give back.

We went by boat to several caves and caverns with the accompaniment of the father and son dogs. Quite entertaining as the son dog really dreaded the boat ride. Miseal showed us many carvings within the caves and explained a lot more history then we could remember. We spent the afternoon with Miseal sharing some vino and of course each of our life's stories.

Since this area had been quite rainy we decided to leave a day early and lodge back at the same Hostel in Santo Domingo. The owner/architect of the eco lodge treated us to a personal taxi drive back inland to catch a bus ride back to Santo Domingo. We spent the afternoon catching up on work issues since we had some much needed Internet at that point.

Back to Panama City lodging at Hard Rock Hotel and another try at the slots but not yet the ATMs until we resolve that problem.

Lots of similarities to Cuba Warm welcomes. Beautiful country. Lots of Spanish influence. Latin music. Lots of history. Most of all - lots of friendly people, and nice surprises.

Next stop 2 weeks to regroup in Bocas. Then 2 day sails to Shelter Bay Panama east of us for pulling aVida out for repairs and painting. From there, early December we sail to the Cayman Islands for a welcoming warm winter.