Indian River continued
17 May 2008 | Portsmouth
Bryan
Albert would have normally just had us relax and enjoy this unusual bar at the head of the Indian River but he had something special in mind for us. We hiked back into the woods a ways then emerged onto a plantation of a friend of his. Banana trees went on forever but there were also grapefruit, orange, cocoa, breadfruit, pineapples, and coconut trees. He cut open a cocoa pod and showed how to scoop out the seeds and suck on them. Each is covered with a layer of tart, fruity meat that reminds Sue of a Jolly Rancher hard candy. He explained how the banana trees bear fruit only once then die back revealing baby plants growing up along side. Working the plantation is an endless job of moving these small trees around to keep them properly spaced. The fruit itself starts with a large purple flower, which opens one petal at a time. Under each petal is one hand of tiny bananas. Eventually enough hands are produced to form a bunch and the flower stops producing hands though it remains under the bunch, large and purple as ever.
We had a great tour of the plantation, met the owner, then headed back to the bar. There we had several local concoctions called Dynomite. Albert was disappointed that they were not nearly as Dynomite as they used to be, though still potent. He regaled us with stories of his life here and how much he loved it. Mellowed by the drinks, we got back in the boat and drifted back downstream through the primordial scenery, this time at dusk and to the songs of all the night critters.
The next day, I went on two dives. Dominica is supposed to have some of the best diving in the Caribbean and though I don't have a lot to compare to, the dives didn't disappoint. It was just myself and the guide from the dive shop, so we had very slow-paced and relaxing dives. We saw a really large sea turtle ghost slowly by, huge basket sponges. Eagle rays, moray eels, sea snakes, every kind of coral and reef fish. More special than the spectacular underwater scenery though was something I've never experienced before and that was hearing whales sing while I was underwater. We never saw them unfortunately but learned later they were humpbacks, which travel here to give birth to their young. The guide says he hears this all the time but that most people don't, usually because they are too busy thrashing about trying to see everything and burning through their air in the bargain.
Tomorrow we leave for an island group called The Saintes, part of Guadeloupe.