Surfing a Legend
04 April 2012 | Matanchen Bay
I finally hit Matanchen bay at the right time. The Guiness Book of World Records has this place as the "longest surfable wave in the world". Surfers also joke that this place also holds the record for being the least likely wave to break. This is our 8th time here and first time there has ever been a surfable swell. We've had three great days of south swell 5-7' and a bit overhead. It been a dream come true. Friday and yesterday we were getting rides all the way from the point of the bay (Los Isletes) down to the palapas at the bottom of the bay. Over a mile ride. Five minute rides! and 20 minutes to hike back up the beach. The wave is incredible: It is smooth and well-formed peeling right point break that just keeps going and going. Every time you think it's going to peter out, it reforms and keeps on going down the bay. Add to that 80 degree water temperature and sunny skies with little wind, lush jungle scenery, and it doesn't get much better. Oh, and there were never more than two or three people waiting for a wave, usually only one. Sunday, we surfed Stoner's, which is just outside the bay, and it was overhead and really clean smooth waves for a three hour session. Just three of us in the water. Came back and then did two hours more again in the afternoon in the bay.
Sorry, no internet here so I can't attach a picture.