Reflecting back on an ocean passage
23 September 2011 | Down the West Coast
Tom
I have had a few weeks now to reflect on our journey from Seattle, down the coast to San Francisco. There have been many highs, a few lows, and a whole lot of stuff in between.
When we left the anchorage at Wescott Harbor, just south of Roche harbor, in the San Juan's we were filled with excitement, tinged with a bit of anxiety. The fear of the unknown that is sure to creep up on anyone starting out on this type of outing for the first time. For me it was the open ocean. I have been out 10-20 even 40 or miles out in charter fishing vessels. They have had experienced Captains with proven seaworthy vessels. We have just us, in a boat that is more than a boat to us, it is our home. Our everything. I have never gotten seasick, but then again, I haven't been out on sailboat. The thought of it was a slow nag in the back of my head. And you know who sometimes a song will get in your head and you just can't seem to get it out? Well for the first couple of days, I had a Brent Burns song very securely lodged there....a song about a fisherman who is sea sick, “I'm Seasick again”. Despite the potential for that being a bad omen, it was never a problem.
The thrill of turning the corner just past Neah Bay, our “Big Left Turn” and heading out to the ocean, in our boat was a joy the I have yet to come up with the words to describe. Just think, our boat, one that we basically rebuilt all by our selves. The sweat, the worry, and even the blood from almost 5 years of hard work are about to pay off. Sailing off into the night, next stop San Francisco.
The days, and nights were filled with a lot of nothingness. Not really wanting to read, or write, for fear of missing something exciting, with that “something” turning out to be steady 6-8 foot wave after wave after wave... We had fog almost every day, and if it wasn't foggy, it was a very low marine layer that prevented any real ability to see very far. Not that it mattered as we had set a course for 100 miles off shore, and from there a pretty straight line into the Golden Gate Bridge.
We had hoped to see an abundance of marine life while we passed the time.At some point we did begin to see quite a few sea birds. The storm Petrels, Black Footed Albatross's, Shearwaters, and later some Northern Fulmars. We had several pods of White Sided Dolphins playing alongside with their laser like speed, a large pod of Gray Whales, and one huge Blue Whale all passed by to help kill the monotony the gray days.
In all of our preparations for this trip, I have to admit the one weakness that we had was an intimate knowledge of the off shore weather patterns, and how they are effected by in shore temperatures. Especially as we got closer to California. This well documented part of our trip, while it was not what I would call that much fun, is still not for the lowest point to me. Looking back now it was a true learning experience, not just a hard way for us to learn about weather. We gained a life time of knowledge about our own capabilities, the strength of our boat, and to trust what we are capable of as a team.
There were things that happened along the way that I don’t feel that I need to experience again, if I can avoid it. The trip out of the Straight of Juan De Fuca was stressful, and tiring with dense zero visibility fog for almost 12 hours. We had several large commercial ships passing in and out of the straight. Then we had a strong 18-20 knot incoming wind pushing against a large ebb tide. This made for very steep seas, causing the bow of Eagle to bury itself up to the anchor roller about every third wave. Bashing and crashing for several hours, we took a lot of water over the top of the boat. Once we got off shore we had north west winds most of the trip, which gave us a beam reach most of the time, but we also had 6-8 foot westerly rollers, with 3 foot wind waves, all at 6-8 seconds. All of these waves hitting us on the beam made for a very uncomfortable ride. Every part of the boat was in constant motion. And then there was the storm...in short we had 18 hours of 20-30 knot winds with seas 18-20 feet. Throw in a few higher gusts, and few higher waves and it made for a nasty ride. Even then we were not ever worried or afraid. We just kept sailing. Prudence told us that we should check in with the Coast guard, if nothing more than to let them know we are out here, find out what the what the weather forecast was and where we might find some shelter should we decide to bail on San Francisco and head towards shore. We have both discussed this at length, and realize that we got more concerned about our situation, after talking to the Coast guard that we ever had prior to that. The fact that they questioned us about our life raft, our EPIRB, wanted a contact phone for our next of kin, wanted information on the boat, and was our engine working....and then they informed us that we were in, and I quote “ Extremely Dangerous Boating Conditions! What the hell is that? I have heard of a Small Craft Advisory, I have heard of gales Warnings, Storm warnings, and even Tropical Storm Warnings...but never have I heard of Extremely Dangerous Boating Conditions. At this point, and only at this point did we begin to be concerned about our situation. Being 100 miles off shore, with limited crew is not something we will do again. You just don’t have room to react to any sever change in the weather. At 100 miles out, we were the better part of a full day before we could reach the shelter of one of the bays. Despite everything, this part of the trip was really only 18 hours of the seven days on the ocean, from Washington to The Golden Gate Bridge. I am not able to condemn a trip for such a small percentage of time spent in an uncomfortable position.
We had a some great days, and some great experiences out there, with 24 hour sails, going nearly 150 miles each day. We had an afternoon where the sun came out and we sailed with some of the northern California coast line in sight. This was such an emotional lift, as we were really ready for some sunshine. We dropped anchor in Drakes Bay, our first true ocean anchorage. With all of the experiences from this leg of the trip,I believe that in many ways we are closer now as a couple than ever before. We have experienced, we have learned, and we have accomplished something together that few ever will. An off shore passage.
And now we prepare for the second leg of this grand adventure of ours, San Francisco to San Diego. We do so with a new found sense of well being, a little less fear of the unknown, and a giddy excitement to see whats next!! Warm Sunshine would be a great thing!