Following Darwin footsteps towards the reknown Galapagos Islands! We will be crossing the Equator in about 4 days but being already "trusty Shellbacks", no ceremony will be necessary...
On the way we saw a multitude of dolphins and birds.
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02/12/2009, Contadora, Panama
Contadora is a resort island, with many homes owned by wealthy Panamanians. Contadora was said to be used by the Spanish conquistadors as a stop for taking inventory of booty prior to returning to Spain, hence the name (contador means counter or bookkeeper in Spanish). In 1979, the Shah of Iran briefly took exile on Isla Contadora.
The Pearl Islands were featured in three seasons of the reality TV program Survivor.
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Getting slowly ready for the Pacific Crossing, making sure all is working fine before departing. The huge task of provisioning is on, everything you may need for the next 4 months have to be found and stored!
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You will be able to see us going through the locks of the Panama Canal by going to their website and checking the Webcam.
We will go through the Gatun Locks the 4th of Januray, the pilot is coming on our boat at 6:30PM (our time), so that means that we will be going through between 7PM and 9PM, never know in this country! Then the 5th of January through the Miraflores Locks sometimes in the morning, not sure yet about the time but will try to post it. Should be really nice to spot us live going through that amazing experience! And if anyone see us and save the video it will be great and we will very much appreciate it!
Click to Check the WebCam of the Panama Canal
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The San Blas islands are a bit of unspoiled paradise. The Kuna Indians live on these hundreds of tiny islands, they call themselves "Tule" meaning "people", they are part of the American group of the Chibchan language family. In former times the Kuna occupied a great part of the Isthmus of Panama. Cases of hereditary albinism are very high and have given rise to legends of white Native Americans. In Kuna mythology, Albinos were given a special place.
They dress just as you would expect with the women wearing the family capital in the form of gold around their neck, in their ears or in their nose. They look spectacular with their gold nose rings, their arm and leg bands of beads, sarongs and their colorful "mola" blouses worn in combination are a work of art in itself. The Kuna men have adopted a clothing style more traditional to the men of the western world and appear drab beside the Kuna women.
The Kuna have a matriachal society in which the line of inheritance passes through the women. A young man, after marriage, must live in his mother-in-law's house and work for several years under apprenticeship to his father-in-law. Divorce is uncommon, although it requires no more than the husband to gather his clothes and move out of the house. The daughters of the Kuna people are prized because they will eventually bring additional manpower into the family.
The islands of the San Blas Archipelago are strung out along the Caribbean coast of Panama from the Golfo de San Blas nearly all the way to the Colombian border. San Blas is a series of 378 islands of which only 49 are inhabited by the fiercely independent Kuna Indians. Although only a 20mn plane ride away from Panama City, a trip to the San Blas islands will transport you 20 centuries into the past. The Kuna Indians, who run all the islands as an autonomous province, with minimal interference from the national government have maintained their own economic system, language, customs and culture, with distinctive dress, legends, music and dance and thus have avoided traditional tourism development. The economy of the islands is based on coconut sales, fishing and tourism, and they offer travelers good snorkeling and swimming. Facilities are few and simple, as is the food. The area is surrounded by reefs, some of the oldest in the world, and offer wonderful diving and snorkeling opportunities, the best of which are between the months of April and June.
San Blas is famous for one of its arts and crafts, the mola. Kuna women make rainbow colored fabrics, emblazoned with fish, birds, jungle animals and geometric designs that would impress Picasso himself.
They are made using an appliqué process referred to as "reverse appliqué". Several layers of cloth varying in color are loosely stitched together. Fine-tipped scissors are used to cut the top layers. The cut edges are folded back and stitched to the layer below.
The men still fish from canoes as they did before Columbus came. They still run up to the corner coconut palm trees for something fresh and cool to drink each morning, just as they have for untold centuries.
We visiting many of the enchanting quiet anchorages, had Christmas lunch at the Swimming Pool with maybe 40 other boats. Everywhere men or family of Kuna ladies will come to sell their good from greens, to seafood or molas. What a sight they were, arriving rowing in their tiny dugout canoe, strong and proud wearing the most colorful outfits I have ever seen.
Click to See Pictures
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Once again bottom paint has to be done, touch-ups and polishing to bring "Madame Blue Dawn" back to her glory days!
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We left Bocas del Toro early in the morning in a bleak rainny day and it got worse as the hours went by. Squalls were surrounding us, a massive rain lasted for hours. The rain was so bad that some small birds came onboard to find protection, it then started pourring, one of the bird landed on Geoff's Shoulder and stay there the whole time!
The boat was rolling about like a mad bull and all these conditions cause the mainsail to split...
We therefore had to change course for Colon where repairs can be achieved, we were really pleased to arrived and anchor at 11PM!
Click to Watch the Video
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Nearly ready to sail South to the untouched San Blas Islands while waiting for a weather window anchored by the Bocas Marina with great views over the mountains of the mainland.
Bocas town is only a short dinghy ride away.
"Christopher Columbus explored the area in 1502, while searching for the passage to the Pacific ocean. Columbus's original name for the island was Isla del Drago. In colonial times, Bocas del Toro was part of Veraguas. In the times of the union with Colombia, the government made a reservation called Bocas del Toro in 1834. In 1850, Bocas del Toro became a part of Chiriqui, then was separated from it and became part of Colon. On November 16, 1903, Bocas del Toro was separated from Colon and became its own province. In 1941, Bocas del Toro was divided into 2 districts, Bocas del Toro and Crimamola. Four years later, in became into the same division as before. In 1970, B. del Toro district became Changuinola, eliminated the district Bastimentos and added 3 new districts to what it is today. The extensions of the districts changed in 1997 when the reservation Ngobe Bugle was made."
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