Coal ships, at least ten, wallow at anchor awaiting precious cargo to fill their vast bellies and weigh them back into their watery skirts, covering the bared red waists on full display. A red haze tinges the horizon of an otherwise clear blue sky, thickening as we approach the big smoke. Dolphins, a pod of 30, cruise past oblivious to both, intent only on tracking their next meal. A whale breaches on the horizon but comes no closer as yachts struggle to fill their spinnakers in the calm conditions. The constant chug of the diesel "Lord Gardner" comforts and guides a smooth and swift return journey and Lion Island looms in the afternoon sun as we cruise past upriver to a mooring.