10/30/2009, Richards Bay, South Africa
The photo is Blue Sky rounding the northern tip of Madagascar, Cape d'Ambre. This is a very rare calm here!
We are currently at the Zululand Yacht Club in Richards Bay, South Africa.
Needless to say we are very relieved to be in South Africa. The passage from Chagos to Madagascar was an experience that I would prefer to never repeat. It is all the more chilling now that the British Yacht Lynn Rival has been hijacked by Somali Pirates. The couple is currently being held aboard a commercial vessel that was taken during our voyage from Chagos.
The stress of not communicating on VHF with our buddie boat s/v Moose and when we did our daily sked on the SSB we spoke in a code that we only had. The commercial shipping was just as nervous as we were. We were passed on three occassion. The first was during daylight and a east bound German registered ship steam by and blew their horns wishing us luck and in hindsight blew away any bad luck. The second vessel was encountered on the Saya de Malha bank. It was just drifting and the only thing that Emma and I could guess is that it must have been awaiting orders where/what to load. The third vessel was the worst as it was just before nautical dawn. I received a beep on our CARD (collision avoidance radar detector) and immediatly powered up the Raytheon Radar to see a very strong return displayed only a couple of miles directly behind us. Worse the Somalis were using "motherships" to dispatch their boarding pirates and it was still dark and I could not see what was coming. To add to the stress we were running in "black-out" conditions and so were they! I turned on the engine and made a 90 degree turn to port. The dawn just broke as the commercial vessel passed us within 1/2 mile. (That is REALLY close.) Relief! It was only a commercial vessel but I am still pissed that a vessel their size would even consider getting that close to us. I know for a fact that our radar reflection is over 9 miles so IF the watch WAS looking, THEN they saw us for more than 30 minutes.
Making Madagascar was a relief and we rounded the northern most cape in calm conditions.
Three months of relaxation was what we needed and Madagascar proved just that!
From Madagascar we motor/sailed over to Mayotte. Staying only a few weeks we then proceded to the East Coast of Africa. Ile Mozambique was our landfall and proved a stunning sight with its fort.
We used the southerly/northerly weather to make our way down the coast of Mozambique. We were amazed at the huge population of humpback whales. They would cruise past the boat or we would see them breaching off in the distance or tail/flipper slapping the water. We made it into Richards Bay, South Africa just after our closest pass of a whale. It surfaced directly in front of the boat and that with the engine running and blasting music from the stereo. I guess he was just curious. One vessel did collide with a whale and it disabled his propeller and rudder. The fleet this year gave the local sea rescue a busy time. Of the 9 vessels that left Mauritius 4 of them were towed into Richards Bay with some dammage.
Now that we are here we will take advantage of its proximity to the game parks. Hopefully we will be fortunate and see at least a few of the big 5. Phoebe is hoping for an elephant and Drake wants to see a lion. I'll just be happy to take a quick break!
more to follow....
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Glad you guys were ok going through the straights. We .. i guess the whole world has heard about the yacht and couple that was taken by the pirates. I'm never sure how much is media craziness and how much is true or understated about the whole situation over there with the pirates but it surely sounds bad.
Anyway... like I said I'm glad you guys got through there ok.
I have been busy on the new downeasteryachts.com website and it has everything up from the old websites as well as a lot of the content of the old forums. You should check it out if you have a chance. I got your comment about having the blue prints of the DE45 and am not sure if I replied that I would like them. I have talked with so many people now that have contributed information to the site that I am getting confused over what I have and who gave it to me. If I didn't get them from you then it would be great to do so.
I would love to post some of your experiences as you guys travel on the site. I think
anyways.. send in some stories even if its just a copy of your blog every once in a while to put on the front page of the http://www.downeasteryachts.com site.
scott
01/14/2009, Thailand - Malaysia
We are back in the Talaga Marina on the main island of Langkawi, Malaysia. We have spent the last three months cruising southern Thailand. We visited the Thai islands south of Phuket, working our way up into Phang Nga Bay. There we stopped off in the Krabi area before rounding the bottom of Phuket Island and enjoying the west coast and getting out to the amazing Similan Islands. The Similan Islands have the clearest water in South East Asia. The children swam with turtles in amongst coral and tropical fish.
My niece Rebecca's friend Rachel was in Thailand with her friend Russ. They were considering working as dive masters but the political situation and economy have ruined the 2008/2009 tourist season here. The numbers to date have been cut in half from last year.
Rachel & Russ decided to hitch a ride from Thailand to Langkawi, Malaysia. We showed them as much as possible of the southern islands. We took three weeks traveling from Phuket to Langkawi. In that time Rachel and Russ taught Emma, Phoebe & Drake how to scuba dive. Emma's un-schooling approach seems to be working. The children both studied and passed. Drake is too young to actually apply for his diver card but both Phoebe & Emma have theirs. Drake had a great time doing "fun dives" with Russ.
We spent Christmas having a beach BBQ on the island of Koh Kraden with several other crusing kid boats. For New Years we went to the busy island of Koh Lipe. It's just 24 miles from Langkawi but the water is 3rd in clarity after the similans. Fireworks, Glowing Sky Lanterns, Fire twirling and music til dawn! January 1st was a very quiet day as the island emptied out and it was just Blue Sky and the locals.
More later...
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We, too, are sailors here in St. Petersburg, Fl (Cape Dory 27 #29) but all of our little weekend cruises wouldn't add up to much compared to a circumnavigation. Very, very nice.
I'll be watching and my boy Ben (5) will, too.
Fair Winds!
Dale Bridges
08/28/2008, Langkawi, Malaysia
Emma, Phoebe & Drake had a world circumnavigation by air. They left Malaysia in July for a 6 week holiday. They first flew to the US, landing at LAX. They were met for the transfer from International terminal to the domestic by the entire Morgan family, Peterdog & Pam! They had a couple of hours together before Emma and the children boarded a flight to Tucson. There they relaxed with Grandma and Grandpa Byrne-Quinn. My family including all three sisters then made the trip from their home to Tucson for a few days of BBQ's, Mexican food, site seeing and golf. Emma and the children then flew back to Redondo Beach and had four days of fun visiting friends and neighbors. The Port Royal Yacht Club hosted one evening where friends from all over Southern California could converge for an evening of fun! After a fantastic few days, they boarded another flight for London. There they were joined again with Emma's parents. They spent a few days in London site seeing and staying with Emma's sister Sarah. They then boarded another flight up to Inverness, Scotland. There they headed to Emma's cousin, Ted's wedding. They had a plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and it reminded them of our time in New Zealand. Once back to London they boarded a direct flight from London to Kuala Lumpur. One more quick flight from there to Langkawi and a ferry ride out to our island marina and they had completed their first circumnavigation.
Where was I? Well it was haul out time and I prefer to not have Phoebe and Drake exposed to the hazzards that are boat yards. I was able to have the two polyurethane blue boot and top stripes re-done. I pulled and replaced the cutlass bearing for the propeller shaft and re-antifouled the bottom of Blue Sky. It really does not sound like much but this is SEA! More later.
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I'm also a UofA grad, from the class of '52. I was the capt. of the football team and drafted by the '49'ers, but went to Japan for 2 yrs. in the USAF, before coming back to my Chevron job.
Millie and I are continuing to enjoy your great blog, thanks.
