Rongerik Atoll
29 December 2011 | Marshall Islands
We found the overgrown site of the old village. The fresh water well was extended higher than the ground with a rectangular concrete wall. That was probably done by the Japanese who had a coast watching station on the island or it could have been completed by the Americans when they set up a meteorological station, before the Bakinians were moved here. At Rongerick, we ate well from our freezer on Brick House. We did not try to catch fish since we heard ciguatera poison can be found in the fish. It appeared the maladies attributed to the spirits on Rongerick were very similar to the effects of ciguatera poisoning; headaches, vomiting sore muscles. The effects can linger for many weeks. But we did eat the lobsters. At night, at low tide, we walked along the edge of the outer reef in 12 inches of water and picked up 22 lobsters. But the species of lobsters living in these atolls are small so it takes several to make a dinner for two. Some times we simply stepped on the lobster and then picked them up with a gloved hand and others we speared with our 4" long trident fastened to a broom handle. Since there was no wind, it made the walk very easy as there were no huge waves to flood onto us.
After 10 days of paradise, we sailed westward to Rongelap. We met the "chief" as Patrick likes to call him, although there are no chiefs in the Marshall Islands, his family is the largest land inheritor on Rongelap. He took us in his truck and showed us all around. The U.S. is funding the construction of 50 or so concrete 3 bed 2 bath homes to encourage the Rongelapese to move back to Rongelap. It's a big question as to whether they will want to move back or not - it has been a convenient life for them in Majuro and Kwajelein and if they move back, the free flow of food and benefits might be turned off by the U.S.. It is Pilipino, Kiratati and some Marshallese who are building the houses. Even the "chief" does now want the Rongelapese to help build the houses. Apparently they have not the work ethic or skills to be of assistance.