To Vanuatu
11 August 2013
Patrick
It does not matter how much luck one has. It will eventually be tempered by an equal amount of off luck.
Nearly the whole 4 weeks Brick House was hauled out of the water, there was the good luck of almost no wind. Having no wind while working on a sailboat allows the light weight blue plastic tarps, draped around the boat, to do their job of confining sanding dust without the tarps trying to flap away into the distance. On the other side of the high barbed wire fence from our hauled out boat was the back lots of a high end resort. Clouds of sanding dust deposited on their freshly laundered linens hung from lines to dry would not be appreciated. Plus, spray painting the green accent colors or even hand rolling the white body of the hull is far easier without wind whipping paint in an unwanted direction or depositing someone else's dust on our wet paint. We had great luck the entire time we were hauled out.
When we left Vuda Point marina to sail 15 miles north to the city of Lautoka so we could clear out with customs and immigration, this was the only time in many months the wind decided to blow strong from the north, exactly where we wanted to go. That wind turned us not into a sailboat but a motorboat burning up precious fuel and putting ware on the engine. Two days later, when we headed seaward from Lautoka, the wind again did what is not customary and shifted contrarily to the south west. Fiji weather was making it difficult for us to leave! We do like Fiji immensely and we could easily find a life in the Lautoka area more enjoyable than most places in the U.S. but there are other paradises to explore. So on we pressed against the stretching tether.
So we were eventually snapped into the deep Pacific heading westward right into strong winds and high seas. We would have to pass 450 miles to sight the southern Vanuatu island of Anatom. It was not a pleasant sail of sundrenched decks and calm seas. Although the 20-30 knot wind and heavy swells eventually moved astern to push Brick House, we kept the sails small to make modest progress and not break anything. Some yachts enduring the same passage suffered ripped sails and damaged crew from being tossed around inside the cabin. One yacht changed course for the hospital in Port Vila, the capital. On deck to reef the mainsail, I had not worn deck shoes. When the boat took a sharp lurch, my wet feet slipped skyward dropping my left thigh full force onto the handle of a gas tank. The gas tank nor my leg broke but the blow certainly left me limping and sleeping on my right side for days.
On these rough passages, Rebecca often spends days wedged into the "Richard Parker", the little aft cabin bunk, trying to overcome sea sickness.
During the entire 5 day passage, I trolled a killer Repella lure from dawn to dark yet caught only one 10 pound Mahimahi. Another cruiser suggested I extend my 50' hand line to drag further behind the boat so I will add another 50' of 300# line and see if that improves my luck.
The volcanic island of Anatom eventually sheltered Brick House as we splashed our anchor, amongst other world roaming yachts, in the black sand of a deeply indented, volcanic hollow blocking the wind and waves. Ashore we would make out temporary clearance into the country to be followed by more paperwork in Port Vila. It would not be long before we would be on our way, the villagers of Anatom have been tarnished by tourism and by the one large cruise ship which visits once a month.