Brilliant's Log 01-02
1 - 20 May 2002

(note: I put some links to other websites in this log, but the blog won't let me post them as links. You can cut and paste them for more information and pictures.)

29 April -1 May 2002, Chania, Crete, Greece http://www.chaniacrete.gr/

We have done it! We are actually live aboards. No car, no house, and no lawn! We arrived from a quick trip to Maine after retirement on the 29 April. Finished installing the solar panels and re-installing the masthead light lens, windex and wind indicators. Topped up the fuel tanks. (111 liters @ .69 per totaled 76.59 euros)

Log 0 NM


3 May 2002 Gramvousa, Crete, Greece

WE ACTUALLY LEFT THE DOCK AND THERE WAS MUCH REJOYCING!!! Underway at 1030, the Harbor Police had hit us up for 150 euros for the last month in port, still cheap compared to the U.S. Thanked Costa on "Talos" for letting me use his slip for the past month and also Yanni "The Dock Guy" who made sure we had his phone number 094670366 for when we return to Chania.

Winds were right on the nose to start, but after motoring for an hour we were able to raise the sails. A bit cool; I know we will long for that as the season progresses. Arrived safely at Gramvousa around 1730, its just as beautiful as the last time but without the other boats or people. Too cool for a swim, we just enjoyed the views. http://www.crete.tournet.gr/Hersonisos_Gramvousa-si-32-en.jsp

Discovered we had low battery charge after all the motoring we did, so after panicking, we found the alternator belt was loose. That should fix it. Now if I can only find the problems with the water pressure, gas and the leaking galley sink.

Windy night, but the holding was good.

Log 29.3 NM


4 May 2002, Gramvousa, Crete, Greece

After an early start and a pleasant trip to Paleohora, Crete, http://www.crete.tournet.gr/Paleohora-ha-14-en.jsp we found a beautiful harbor with our choice of locations. Power and water available but the marina is not complete yet. We were met by our friend Manolis and driven around to Vasal Gremmeno (a beach about 3 miles away) where they had their trailer setup. We had a great lunch, and then helped prepare the Easter feast. After cleaning up the boat, we walked into the town and met them for midnight mass. Mass was followed by a tripe soup at a local taverna, a Cretan tradition, that at least Pete was not particularly thrilled with. It was after 2 AM before we got back to the boat.

Log 0 NM

5 May 2002, Paleohora, Crete, Greece
We joined Manolis and Litsa at the beach and helped turn the lamb on the spit all morning. We were worried that our son Kurt and his wife Kwen, with her parents in tow, had gotten lost. They finally showed up for the feast at around three. We had a huge meal of lamb with all the trimmings as only the Cretans can do it!

Afterwards, we entertained K & K plus parents aboard "Brilliant". A nice visit with the kids, they will be staying and working at Souda Bay as we start our adventures. We'll miss them a lot.

Log 0 NM


6 May 2002, Paleohora, Crete, Greece

A workday! Spent the morning getting the wind generator installed and working on other boat projects. We felt bad that we weren't there today help Manolis and Litsa pack up for the return to Chania. We had thought they were going to be there another day and only found out about it as they stopped to say goodbye.

Had dinner out at a different from the normal Cretan taverna. They served us mushroom stuffed artichokes, a curry pork and a chicken dinner that was out of this world. We are going to continue to seek out the tavernas that are off the main street; places the locals go to with more variety and better prices.

While we were eating the wind piped up and by the time we back to the boat it was fairly strong out of the NW. We were glad we had extra lines to put on.

Log 0 NM


7 May 2002, Paleohora, Crete, Greece

Another day of projects on the boat, followed by a walk to town for some shopping, internet, a newspaper and a cold beer in a taverna. We also checked out with the Harbor Police, it cost 21 euros with the stamp for our stay. The wind picked up again in the night to a full gale. So much for Poseidon's (an internet wind forecast) predictions calling for no wind.

Log 0 NM


8 May 2002, Paleohora, Crete, Greece

Woke to 30-35kts of wind and decided that it was just fine to stay tied up to the dock. We were well protected in the harbor from the strong NW wind. At around 0430 we had a thrill when we heard voices and peeked out to find a large fishing boat tying up RIGHT off our bow during the height of the storm. They did it without a problem; obviously they knew what they were doing, so back to sleep.

Needless to say, we choose to stay another day.

The wind died by noon, so we wandered back into town and just relaxed. In the evening the wind had continue to pick up from the east and started pushing a swell into the harbor.

Log 0 NM


9 May 2002, Paleohora, Crete, Greece http://www.west-crete.info/paleohora.htm

In the morning, the swell was bouncing "Brilliant" pretty good against the concrete dock and I wanted to get us underway as soon as we could get ready. With shore power connected, I used our electric hot pot to boil water for the coffee. I poured a cup and made the mistake of I leaving the lid off the cup because it was too hot to drink. I then proceeded to sit down at the Nav table to look at the electronic chart on the computer. I'm still not sure how it happened but the coffee dumped! I managed to spill most on me, but it still hit and fried the computer. The computer really did make a, ZOT sound as it went dark. Guess we're back to manual navigation... we were sure getting spoiled by how well the navigation program worked for route planning and uploading waypoints to the hand held GPS. But we have good charts, so just very inconvenient.

We decided to cut our losses and get going anyway. So with a sore burned arm, no breakfast and no coffee in me, we cast off.

As we cleared the harbor we found that the wind had died, but the seas were 4-5 ft and the swell confused as we cleared the harbor. The first hour was uncomfortable, but as the wind came up we were able to raise the main and steady the ride a bit.

The wind then continued to rise and I thought it best to put a reef in and did (the way the day had gone already thought it to better safe than sorry), but it was not without mishap! The reefing line that leads to the cockpit snapped. Quickly to the mast, I learned how to reef the mainsail from there and added one more fix-it project to the list.

With the main reefed we decided to push what little luck we had and brought out a reefed jib. So with 15-20kts we close reached for almost two hours making 5.5-6.5kts.

Arrived in Loutro early afternoon and spent probably two hours figuring out where to put the anchor. Finally ended up loading a second anchor into the dink and setting it. I went for a quick swim to see how the anchors had set. All was good.

After, while I was below changing to go to shore, Stephanie said there was someone waving at us from shore, but she wasn't sure who it was. We rowed the dinghy the 50 yards to the beach and were met by Alicen a friend we'd met at Mike and Anne Spanodakis'. She owns the Hotel Porto Loutro http://www.hotelportoloutro.com/Hotels/Porto_Loutro/index.ht and invited us to drinks and then dinner. It was very nice end to a very challenging day.

Log 21.2 NM


10 May 2002, Loutro, Crete, Greece 3512N/02405E

Quiet seas in a beautiful Greek harbor, life is good. Loutro is one of the only towns in Crete without a road leading in or out... the only access is by sea. It's maybe 150 yards from one side of the town to the other and shore is lined with a dozen hotels. No discos! A few tavernas, this is a place to get away from it all.

Stephanie and I went for a hike to visit some Roman ruins and to get a view of ancient Phoniex. http://www.west-crete.com/holidays-finix.htm After a stop in the town for a great lunch of fish and a spinach and calamari stew, we paddled the dink back out. A short nap and then it was back to boat upkeep. Cleaned the marks the fenders had made on the hull and Stephanie used her new LL Bean collapsible washtub to do a load of laundry. We truly look like cruisers now with the laundry hanging from the lifelines.

I went for a refreshing swim (still a bit cool for Stephanie) and then dried off in the sun. We dined in the cockpit with a nice view of the harbor lights.

Log 0 NM


11 May 2002, Loutro, Crete, Greece 3512N/02405E

We got underway at 0900, after hauling the second anchor in by hand. Winds light and variable so we motored to Ay. Galini. http://www.plata.gr/rethymnon/agiagalini/

Ay. Galini has an excellent harbor and in we were able to moor alongside the quay, after my normal indecision about where to go anytime I come into a new port.

After cleaning up the boat we wandered around the town, found the internet cafe' and then had a quiet dinner aboard.

The trip over was uneventful, except for sighting a loggerhead turtle at 3504N/2429E as it was swimming towards shore. We also saw dolphins for the first time.

Log 32.4 NM


12 May 2002, Ay. Galini, 3504N/02441E

It was just another quiet day in port. Had a chance to take care of a couple of nagging problems including the aft head backup and the leak in the galley sink. Still haven't figured out the water pressurization problem, but I will. Other than just relaxing it was a good day not doing much of anything.

Spent over an hour at the internet cafe' trying to get an installment of the log out. Sure miss our ibook.

In the late afternoon, I put an eye splice and SS thimble on the new anchor rode. Splicing is a fun job and I stretched it into an enjoyable hour's work.

Took Stephanie out for Mother's Day dinner. We just couldn't find a non-tourist place so settle for a roof top taverna with a view of the harbor.

Log 0NM


13 May 2002, Ay Galini, Crete, Greece

Checked out with the port police even though they said to expect force 6-7. As I wet back to the boat the wind was piping up and we decided to wait another day.

We spent the day exploring the town a bit more. Then spent more time at the internet cafe'. A bit of grocery shopping; Stephanie got two loads of laundry done; got water to fill the tanks; polished the stainless steel; washed the decks; and general housekeeping. Also found the source of the leak in the galley sink (it was around the rim.)

Solar and wind are keeping the batteries going. Holding our own in the energy department.

Dinner aboard. The boat looks better and we feel good about our decision to wait.

Log 0 NM


14 May 2002, Ay. Galini, Crete, Greece

The wind remains! Shifted to the east this morning but still a strong 6-7. Once again decided to sit it out.

Figured we might as well be tourists for the day so rented a car and went sightseeing. We visited ancient Phaistos, http://www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/phaistos.html an ancient Minoan Palace, then drove out to Kali Limenes http://www.crete.tournet.gr/Kali_Limenes-ha-28-en.jsp, where we were planning to sail to next. It looked like a good anchorage, but we sere still glad to have "Brilliant" safely tied to the dock in Ay. Galini.

We also drove to Matala http://www.visitmatala.com/ a small cove with caves that was famous as a hippie hangout in the 70's It's all commercialized now and full of German tourist, so we only stopped to use the head.

We found a great taverna just past Phaistos that was recommended in the Rough Guide. Super rabbit for lunch! On the way back to Galini we stopped in the town of Timbaki http://www.interkriti.org/timbaki/ to visit a couple of hardware stores. We didn't find what we needed, but had a nice frappe and did find an internet cafe' for less.

Tomorrow doesn't look good for leaving either and at 2300 it's still blowing pretty good, so I guess we'll be here for at least one more day.

Log 0 NM


15 May 2002, Ay. Galini, Crete, Greece

Still here! Spent a simple day on the boat. Wind was strong all day pushing us into the concrete quay. All the lines are doing well, but all our work cleaning the deck and stainless steel was a waste. We are now covered with salt spray from the wind driven spray in the harbor.

Looking at the weather on the net seems we'll be here at least two more days.

A cruising couple hailed us while we were below. Seems they had been stuck by the weather also, their boat is at in Spinalonga on the N. shore. They are trying to get south and we are trying to get north. Not today, but we'll get there.

I'm fast running out of projects, but there always something to do on "Brilliant".

Log 0 NM


16 May 2002, Ay. Galini, Crete, Greece

Around 0500 we heard a very strange sound... Silence! The wind had finally died, so we rolled over and went back to sleep. When we woke it was still very nice, so we went quickly into town to get a few items at the super market and quick check of the weather at the internet cafe'. We finally cast off at 1130 for the short run to Kali Limenes. Winds were from the southeast at 5kts so we motor sailed the 3.5 hours to our next harbor.

Kali Limenes means Fair Haven or Good Harbor and it is lovely and according to history was visited by St. Paul in 59 AD. We anchored in a little cove with a sandy bottom and a nice beach about 100 yards away. The tiny village is really unspoiled, 2 or 3 hotels (small) and just a few tavernas. We only saw one couple on the beach. The only downside is the island just offshore. It has oil storage tanks and is used by big tankers, thankfully none where in port today.

Log 17.3 NM


17 May 2002, Kali Limenes, Crete, Greece 3455N/2448E http://www.crete.tournet.gr/Kali_Limenes-ha-28-en.jsp

Weather looked good, so we were off to Ierapetra. We had hoped to sail, but 2kts of wind from the stern just wasn't going to do it. Had to motor sail all day.

Amazing number of hot houses line the southern coast of Crete. The agriculture here supplies much of Europe with their early tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Ierapetra is the largest city on the southern shore. Not a very pretty harbor (we were spoiled by Chania I think).

We arrived at Ierapetra and even though the cruising pilot warned about shallow water at the entrance it was still very scary to watch the depth sounder as we came in. We draw 1.83 meters and I've always tried to go no less than 2 meters. I saw 1.5 meters at one po9int but we never touched bottom. The difference is because the transducer is mounted about .5 meters below the water line. Still it was very disconcerting. We Med moored for the first time with only the two of us and a bit too much help from a guy on the dock. We finally shut the motor down around 5 PM and then explored the town a bit. We enjoyed a dinner out (we have to stop being sucked in like tourists and find the locals tavernas) and early bed.

Log 48.6 NM


18 May 2002, Ierapetra, Crete, Greece 3500N/02544E http://www.ierapetra.net/

This was shopping day for us. We went to the Harbor Police first thing in the morning with the paper they dropped off at the boat the evening before. Naturally they wanted something else when we got there - insurance papers. We decided to come back later with all the papers they needed to see.

We visited a little archeological museum in the town, very nice Minoan pottery and coffins. A few Roman statues left over. We peeked in a mosque and that was pretty much it for the sightseeing the town.

We went on a quest to find a replacement bulb for the nav station light, without luck. So then decided to wander around the streets and try to get a better feel for the town. We picked up some local bread and fresh strawberries and stumbled onto a Marine Supply Store. They had the lamp bulb and lots of other stuff we probably didn't need, but had fun shopping there anyway.

A late lunch then it was back to town to visit the Harbor Polices again and a stop at the internet cafe'. I also wanted to pickup an extra belt for the engine. We spent too much time at the internet cafe', but got a great forecast for Sidheros (the point on the eastern end of Crete noted for foul winds). We had dinner in the cockpit then sprayed the boat for mosquitoes (it was really bad in their harbor).

Oh, almost forgot. We spent a good hour washing all the salt off "Brilliant" again. The storm at Ay. Galini had really crusted her with salt and the water was free here.

After dinner on a wishful whim I pushed the power button on the ibook and it started making funny noises then of all things it turned on! Still some major problems, it doesn't re-charge and at the least one of the keys isn't working, but all the data is intact.

19 May 2002, Ierapetra, Crete 3500N/02544E

Sunday Greek Orthodox Services helped us rise early. Their choir was in rare form and VERY loud.

It was much easier getting out of the harbor and we were able to keep a little more water under the keel this time. Shortly after leaving the harbor a fisherman starts waving and shouting at us. We thought we might have been in his nets, so we put the boat in neutral and let him catch up. Seems the Harbor Police were trying to call us on VHF channel 12. I thanked the fisherman and then called the Harbor Police.

Seems the watch from Saturday didn't do a good pass down because they thought we hadn't checked out. I let them know we had and had our papers and the receipt for the 5.20 euro fee (cheapest so far). They said to wait while they checked. I said no problem, but I would be continuing on my way while they checked. If there was a problem they could call back. Never heard from them again.

We had some flat seas and no wind until we turned the corner at the southeast most pint of Crete. Then a 10-15kt wind pushed us north. Unfortunately, the wind was dead astern and not moving us very quickly, so we decided to motor sail.

About 5 miles from Vai, our destination for the day, we suddenly notice a bright red charge light and an overheating engine. I quickly shut the engine down and wet below to confirm what I knew I would see... a broken belt.

While Stephanie took over topside sailing the boat, I broke out the trusty combination wrench set and went to work. The belt had shredded and the engine coolant overflowed so the compartment was a mess. Thank goodness I'd picked up the spare belt yesterday. It took me about twenty minutes to get the new belt on and the engine running again. We were almost to Vai by then.

We found a nice protected cove with good holding, secured the boat hen rowed the dinghy ashore to explore the palm tree grove and walk on the beach. This is the only stand of indigenes palm trees in Europe and Greece is doing a good job of preserving them. http://www.east-crete.com/vai-itanos.htm

Back to the boat, after a beer at a beach taverna, then a quiet evening aboard in a calm cove.

Log 40.0 NM


20 May 2002, Vai, Crete, Greece 3515N/2616E

Up with the sun and underway by 0800. Zero wind and flat calm seas. Cape Sidheros on the NE corner of Crete has a very nasty reputation and we took advantage of the calm weather to quickly round the point. It's a desolate area and there are many submerged reefs, but with the good weather we decided to stay close in and save some time.

Note: Lesson Learned: if you know the reef is there and it's supposed to be on the left, based on the GPS position, don't forget to look right as well. At the same time as I got the call to Stephanie to look at the Dolphins out, I realized they weren't dolphin. They were rocks on the wrong side of the boat. As I cranked the wheel hard to starboard, Stephanie watched the depth gauge go from a steady 30 meters to 9 in a flash. "Brilliant" responded beautifully as she spun about and put a bit more distance between the reef and us. GPS accuracy isn't always perfect and the chart datum isn't always correct.

After safely rounding the Cape, the wind came up. With 8-13kts on the beam, we set sails and finally shut the engine down. Our best sail to date! Even with the 3-4' swell opposite to the wind we saw our fastest speed 8.1kts. It only lasted for a couple of hours, but that's ok, we were sailing.

Arrived in Sitia http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IczZgD8avsk around noon. We "Med" moored and had no problems getting a good hook set or getting tied up. Having no "help" from the dock this time actually made it much easier.

Getting everything squared away we went for a walk to explore the town. This is definitely the nicest harbor we have seen since Chania.

Later that afternoon, a French boat and an Israeli boat came in. I helped them get tied up, with out offering advice. Definitely pays to get into harbors early if you want a space on the quay.

Dinner was out a at a seafood taverna on the waterfront. We really have to stop doing the tourist thing, this isn't Chania and we aren't getting the food quality we expect. We need to stick to the plan and search our the back alleys for where the locals are eating.

Log 15.6 NM