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Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
In The Trades (Day 13)

John's Blog Updated. Original post with photos: Latitude: 6.40744 Longitude: -125.11987

The wind continues to blow us right along, having made good speed with 144 miles yesterday. Today we gibed and are now heading more west than south again. After looking at the GRIB forecast it looks like there is more wind on this side of the equator so we are taking advantage of that to make our way a bit farther west before we make the leap into the southern hemisphere. We certainly are close those, which is apparent by looking at the stars in the sky. The night sky is now mostly unfamiliar, although I am easily able to pick out the Southern Cross, which I remember from my last sailing adventures in these latitudes. Too bad the star map program on my phone does not work here since I would really like to identify a very bright object due east us which has been rising about 5:30am every morning.

Now that we have an excess of power we have been watching movies in the afternoons, when our power making capacity is at the maximum. I have now finished Season 1 of The Wire and have to make the big decision of whether to start the next season, or whether to move back into a season of the show 24. Or maybe just watch a few movies first before getting addicted to a whole season of something. The problem with these shows, once you start, it is hard to stop watching until the whole season is finished.

Sleeping was a little cooler last night as I figured out a way to tie my port window completely open. The hinge normally is stiff enough to keep it open, but on this one the hinge is broken so the window kept flopping mostly closed. Now that it is wide open I am getting a little more of a breeze. The air temperature is pretty constant between day and night. Somewhere in the mid 80s all the time. The water temperature is now 31.8C. At night the humidity really increases, without the sun to dry things out. So everything is always extra damp and sticky at night. Especially challenging is getting used to having a constantly sticky and moist face and hands.

Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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Arrival at Ua Huka
04/06/2011, South Pacific

We left Hanamenu Bay on Hiva Oa at 0630 this morning to make the short hop to the next island, Ua Huka, a mere 54 nautical miles. We left at daybreak so we could make an early arrival. The winds were mostly 12 to 16 knots on the beam, so we were able to maintain more than 7 knots boat speed under sail nearly the entire way. We arrived at Ua Huka at 14:30 and set anchor in the tiny Baie d'Hane. We traveled 54 miles, divided by 8 hours equals 6.7 knots average boat speed. Not bad.

Dropping the anchor in 30 feet of water, we were surrounded by huge breakers on both sides of us and right behind us, towards shore. We let out 180 feet of chain to make sure we had good holding.

After anchoring, John and Francois got out the boogie boards to go surfing with the locals at the big breakers that were just a hundred yards from our stern. Francois spoke French with the locals and found out that today was the first day in months that the waves were big enough to surf from. Lucky us (not!)

About an hour after we arrived, s/v Evergreen arrived and dropped anchor very close to us. There was not much choice since the tiny bay is no more than a few hundred yards (meters) from one side to the other.

The waves crashing onshore are huge, and there is no way any of us would attempt a dinghy landing in these conditions. We are hoping that tomorrow morning we will find calmer waters so that we can visit this interesting island.

After that, we are headed tomorrow to somewhat civilized Nuku Hiva.

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Night Watch in the Pacific
04/06/2011, middle of nowhere

The night watch is one of my favorite times. Here we are, sailing at 7 knots, the wind is howling in the wind generator, the sideways equatorial crescent moon is smiling at us. I can hear the water shooshing past the hull, as it leaves bursts of luminescence in its wake.

The luminescence of the water has to be seen, to be believed. It's not just whitish spray; it's brilliant bluish-white neon flashes from a million underwater glow-bugs.

We have been at sea for... what?... 12 days now. We are at about the halfway point in this passage. We are more than 1000 nautical miles to the nearest land in any direction. I have heard it said, that this point is the greatest distance you can possibly be from land anywhere on the planet. I don't quite believe it, but it might be true. If I had internet right now I'd check it out.

We haven't seen another boat, ship, or even airplane, in the last 10 days. This ocean is so big! Doing a watch amounts to making sure your sail trim is correct. There is no worry about running into anything. At least not until we get closer to land.

I always thought single handers were nuts because they'd have to sleep some time. One could sleep out here for several hours and not miss anything. They may be nuts, but for different reasons.

As the sun set this evening, we spotted a long series of clouds on the horizon that had peculiar shapes. They looked like handwriting, slanting to the right. One looked like a hungry turtle, with one claw putting food in its mouth. Right behind it was a stegosaurus, which soon morphed into a Labrador retriever. Pascale, the boys, and I excitedly called out shapes as we perceived them.

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04/07/2011 | R & S Welburn
Reading your blog and in awe at your great adventure. Keep writing, we'll read! Wishing you safe sailing and a great trip! All is well here. sheryn
House Arrest (Day 12)

John's Blog Updated. Original post with photos: Latitude: 8.38386 Longitude: -124.44688

Antoine has been commenting that it feels like we are under house arrest, being confined to the boat like we are. That certainly is one way to put it, and not too far off from what it is like to sail on a boat for three weeks straight. While the time is getting long, it still is not too bad. And once we are there I am sure we will look back on this as being a great experience. I keep telling myself to enjoy the experience of being out here, since this big of an ocean passage is not something I will likely do again for a long time. Of course the trip from Tahiti to Hawaii is a pretty big ocean passage, and not too far off. Although, because of commitments at home, it is uncertain if I will be on board for that leg of the trip.

We are well into the trade winds now. We have had consistent winds of 15 to 22 knots for the past 24 hours and these conditions are predicted to stay with us for the next few days. At about 2.5 degrees north, the wind really starts dying off, and I am thinking we likely will have dead flat seas at the equator. Which is why it is good we have lots of fuel on board, so we can motor through that 300 mile wide equatorial no-man's zone.

Yesterday Bruce figured out why our batteries were not properly charging. It turns out to be neither the alternator or the regulator, but a slipping drive belt. The heavy load on the belt combined with hot weather probably caused it to wear out sooner than it ordinarily would have. Luckily we have spare belts and once a new one was installed, the batteries are charged to a much higher voltage than before. Without refrigeration, our drain on the batteries is much less. With solar and wind power we are able to maintain our battery levels, even while watching movies on two flat screen televisions, and charging three laptop computers. Maybe we should have turned the refrigerator off earlier. After all, computers and movies rank pretty highly in our lives here.

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Violins and A Big Pot of Stew
04/05/2011, location

After the realization that we had permanently lost our refrigeration set in, we drank our last cold beers and got to work. I removed 13 kilos of meet from our freezer, cut it up, and made two big pots of stew. One pot in the pressure cooker, the other in a regular pot. By reheating them to boiling temperature a few times a day, we can keep them sterile for several days. Of course, we may tire of eating beef stew before it runs out.

We dined on some of the camembert and Roquefort cheese that we had brought, and barbequed six rib-eye steaks which we ate for dinner.

We still have several pounds of sausages and cold cuts. I'm hoping the sausages will keep a while longer since they're precooked and cured. Ditto the cold cuts.

The weather is beautiful today, bright blue skies and pleasant sailing conditions.

John plays his violin (beautifully) in the cockpit.

Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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04/06/2011 | Anita and John
Greetings....wanted to make sure you know that Kim and Sharon are on their way!! sorry you lost your fridge!! bummer
Heading South (Day 11)

John's Blog Updated. Original post with photos: Latitude: 10.92644 Longitude: -123.94073

This morning we've made a big turn to the south and are now on a heading of 190 degrees. If we can hold this course all the way to the equator we will cross over right around 128 degrees west longitude. Only about 700 miles to the equator.

Last night we emptied the refrigerator and cooked most of the meat into a big stew. For dinner we had lots of steak. For appetizers we finished off a few hunks of cheese.

Today has been fine sailing weather. The sky is mostly clear, just with a few big tropical looking clouds hanging around. We are doing 6.6 knots on beam reach. This morning I played some Bach and Mozart in the cockpit.

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Lost Refrigeration
04/04/2011, north of the equator

It is day 10, we are about 1/2 way through our voyage and about 1000 miles from land in any direction. We lost our refrigeration today, Antoine (12) was trying to get something unstuck from the freezer using a knife (without our knowledge) and he pierced the evaporator. He came up to the cockpit to announce that there was a hissing sound coming from the refrigerator. Freon was escaping in a rush.

We have plenty of food in cans and dry form (canned meat, veggies, pasta, rice, etc) so there's no danger of starvation.

We also have several pounds of meats (rib eye steaks, arrachera steaks, sausages) which we'll have to either consume immediately, or put into a pressure cooker to make a stew that we can keep under pressure and sterile for several days.

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An interesting Evening
04/04/2011, 1000 miles west of Mexico

We have been watching the GRIB file forecasts that indicate increasing winds tonight and the next few days. In anticipation of that, we decided to put a reef in both the roller furling mainsail and jib, while it was still daylight.

The Jib, however, would not cooperate, as there was an override on the roller furling drum. This would be the result of unrolling the jib without maintaining sufficient tension on the furling line.

So we had to remove the headsail the old fashioned way - dropping it to the deck - while I tried, and eventually succeeded, in untangling the line on the furling drum.

The lesson learned is this: always reef with plenty of extra time before you HAVE to. We were fortunate to have 2 hours to drop the sail, sort out the problem, and rehoist the sail, before it got dark and windy.

It is now night time, and we have been sailing with a double reef in both the jib and the mainsail, yet we are nevertheless maintaining 6 knots speed.

Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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