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Calou's Blog
Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
Day 3 of Passage from Marquesas to Tuomotus
Bruce
05/21/2011

Our second day was another good sail, we made 156 miles in a 24 hour period, like the first day. If this rate continues, we should make landfall at Makemo Island in the early afternoon. That would be nice because we will need good daylight as we enter the atoll in order to avoid the numerous coral heads.

Day 3, which began at noon today, has been highly variable, at times very light winds so we needed to motor, and at times 25 knots and squalls. It has rained off and on all afternoon which we took advantage of to take a fresh water shower on deck.

Now, night time has begun, and fortunately the radar doesn't show any more squalls on the horizon so hopefully we'll have a peaceful and dry night sail.

Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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Day 2 of Passage from Marquesas to Tuomotus
Bruce
05/21/2011

Our first day and night went by quickly, we had a consistent 15 to 20 knots wind on the beam, so we were able to maintain 7.5 knots. Today, at noon, we measured our 24 hour progess since we left Ua Pou and found that we had made 157 nautical miles in that 24 hour period. Not bad considering there was a period of light winds in the shadow of the island where we had to motor.

Our second day has come and mostly gone, it has been very pleasant sailing. We shared a glass of wine at sunset and marvelled how wonderful this passage was turning out to be.

For dinner, we had beef entrecote steaks with green peppercorn sauce, plus chinese long green beans cooked in butter, and couscous.

Our Sat phone terminal was not working today (for me) so my only access to the internet has been via (very slow) sailmail.

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Passage Making to the Tuomotus
Bruce
05/20/2011

We left Ua Pou, the last island in the Maquesas archipelago, and are now sailing towards the Tuomotus, another island chain about 500 miles south west. This passage should take us about 4 days.

We had hoped to fill our jerry cans with gasoline for our outboard motor and generator, but the only store that sells gasoline on the island said they were out. Not to worry, they said, a supply ship was arriving that evening and they would have gasoline in the morning. So we returned to the store this morning, walking about a mile and a half with jerry cans in hand, and when we got there, they had already sold out all of their gasoline.

Such is life in the islands!

For our trip to the Tuomotus, we have brought lots of cash (as much as the ATMs would give us) and plenty of fruit (grapefruit, tomatoes, limes), both of which are difficult or impossible to obtain in these islands.

Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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05/20/2011 | george + candice/PUMA
enjoying following your blog.

bummer about the gasoline. however maybe when you find some the walk won't be so long.

interested to see if you find gasoline in the Tuomotus.
Anchorage at Ua Pou
05/19/2011

We had a rainfall this afternoon, and as the clouds cleared, we enjoyed this beautiful view of the island's volcanic spires. These sharp peaks are ancient columns of lava which have cooled, and, being harder than the surrounding material, have withstood erosion over the centuries, leaving these fantastic vertical plugs.

We ventured into town to do provisioning for our 4 day passage to the Tuomotus Islands... we need to purchase not only food for the passage, but for the next month, since very little is available on these islands, with fruits and vegetables being especially lacking.

Our last venture was to fill our jerry cans with gasoline to run our generator and outboard motors... to our surprise there was no gasoline availabe anywhere on the island, at least until the next supply ship arrives. Luckhy for us it arrived this evening, so we shoule be able to refill our jerry cans in the morning, and be on our way.

Refilling the jerry cans, by the way, is no small task. We have to carry three 5 gallon cans from the boat, ashore, and then walk about a mile inland to the only store in town that sells it (at $8 per gallon). Then we have to lug the jerry cans another mile back to the dock (each 5 gallon can weighs about 30 lbs). Well, at least we are getting our exercise.


Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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Anchorage at Ua Pou
Bruce
05/19/2011

We had a rainfall this afternoon, and as the clouds cleared, we enjoyed this beautiful view of the island's volcanic spires. These sharp peaks are ancient columns of lava which have cooled, and, being harder than the surrounding material, have withstood erosion over the centuries, leaving these fantastic vertical plugs.

We ventured into town to do provisioning for our 4 day passage to the Tuomotus Islands... we need to purchase not only food for the passage, but for the next month, since very little is available on these islands, with fruits and vegetables being especially lacking.

Our last venture was to fill our jerry cans with gasoline to run our generator and outboard motors... to our surprise there was no gasoline availabe anywhere on the island, at least until the next supply ship arrives. Luckhy for us it arrived this evening, so we shoule be able to refill our jerry cans in the morning, and be on our way.

Refilling the jerry cans, by the way, is no small task. We have to carry three 5 gallon cans from the boat, ashore, and then walk about a mile inland to the only store in town that sells it (at $8 per gallon). Then we have to lug the jerry cans another mile back to the dock (each 5 gallon can weighs about 30 lbs). Well, at least we are getting our exercise.


Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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Anchorage at Ua Pou
Bruce
05/18/2011

There was a brief rainfall in the anchorage, and as the clouds cleared, we had this wonderful view of the volcanic spires of Ua Pou.

This island is our final stop for provisioning before our departure to the Tuomotu Islands. So we are stocking up on everything we will need, not just for the 4 day passage, but for our month long journey through the Tuomatu atolls. Fresh fruit and vegetables are impossible to find there, and many other things are in very short supply. So we have to stock up on everything from eggs to toilet paper.

We are carrying as many grapefruit, limes, avocados, and bananas as we can carry. All of these are impossible to find in the Tuomatus.

Another thing we needed was gasoline, for our generator and our outboard motor. We were surprised to find out that there was no gasoline available on the island... until the next supply ship arrives. Lucky for us the supply ship arrived this evening, so we plan to fill our jerry cans in the morning.

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Arrival at Ua Pou
Bruce
05/17/2011

We made the short passage to Ua Pou (pronounced wa-pu) this afternoon. The island is a delightful anchorage, though very crowded so a stern and bow anchor are required. We have gotten used to setting bow and stern anchors so that this is as easy as a single hook.

We caught a tuna en route, which was very nice. I made fresh fish tacos for lunch, and tuna sushi for dinner.

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Daniel's Bay
John
05/16/2011

John's Blog Updated. Original post with photos: http://travel.reservationkey.com Latitude: -8.94391 Longitude: -140.16295

Yesterday afternoon we arrived at one of the most spectacular anchorages so far on our trip, known to cruisers as Daniel's Bay. This bay is completely protected from the ocean, very calm, and surrounded by steep cliffs on one side. Survivor Marquesas was filmed here in 2002. The bay is called Daniel's Bay because of the local villager, Daniel, that used to live here. For 60 years he was friendly to the cruising boats that stopped here. When the Survivor show arrived Daniel was relocated and we learned that he died one and a half years ago.



This bay is also a good location as it is near the trailhead for a two and a half mile hike to the base of the third highest waterfall in the world. The trail is built on top of an ancient stone road and was a fairly easy hike. Currently this area is home to only a handful of people, but when the road was in use there were over 5000 people living along the river. Swimming at the base of the waterfall was great after the long hike in. Due to lots of mosquitoes though we did not stay very long at the waterfall.

Before leaving Taiohae Bay we had a chance on Saturday to attend a dance performance. The performance area was packed with locals and some people from boats, and the dances were mesmerizing.

Tomorrow we have a 25 mile sail to the last island we will visit in the Marquesas, Ua Pou,after which we will head to the Tuamotus.

Pacific Puddle Jump 2011
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