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Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
Arrival at North Fakarava
06/09/2011, Tuomotu Archipelago

We sailed from Fakarava South Pass to Fakarava North Pass via a channel inside the lagoon today; it was a delightful sail, in fact the most pleasant sailing we have seen ever... perfectly flat seas, 15 to 20 knots of breeze on the beam, sailing at up to 8 knots, warm weather, sunny, and beautiful scenery along the way as the channel follows the eastern end of the atoll.

We departed early morning and arrived here in North Fakarava at 1230 PM, the route covering some 40 nautical miles. We are anchored in 40 feet of water on sand with good holding.

We haven't seen all of the village yet but we found a good grocery store and the boulangerie, and we had an excellent lunch of grilled tuna steaks at an outdoor restaurant in town.

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Diving with the Sharks at Fakarava
06/07/2011, Fakarava Atoll, Tuomotus

Today John and I went on two scuba dives, along the reef that borders the entrance channel to Fakarava Atoll. Besides the superb colorful tropical fishes and many varieties of coral, the highlight was the huge number of sharks, mostly black tip and gray sharks, that inhabit the channel. At about 90 feet below the surface, we were surrounded by hundreds of sharks in every direction. I have to admit I was a bit nervous, as the larger ones were bigger than me, but thankfully the sharks paid no attention to us.

colorful Trigger Fish

Springer's Desmoiselles seek refuge in coral

Black Tip Reef Shark

Room with a View

the Pension (Bed and Breakfast) at Fakarava

Sharks in the Water

Bird rests on an Oyster Shell

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Passage to Fakarava
06/04/2011, Fakarava Atoll, Tuomotu Archipelago

Because the weather forecast showed a storm system coming in for some days, we departed Tahanea this morning at dawn and made our way 51 miles from there to the South pass of Fakarava today, arriving at 1430. The conditions were excellent, nearly flat water in the channel, as we arrived during the flood with wind coming from astern.

We have anchored on the anchorage on the right side of the channel after you enter the South Pass. Our buddy boats Charade and Callipyge are also here.

Our sail was quite varied, in the morning we had a flat calm and had to motor, but after lunch we had a series of squalls and the wind built to 25 knots so we cut the engine and sailed. It rained a lot so we got out the foulies.

Right now it's 2030 here in Fakarava and the wind is blowing 25 knots in the anchorage but it's flat water since it's well protected from the swell.

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Lobster Feast
06/04/2011, Tahanea

Today we had a sumptuous feast on board Charade, starting with guacamole and chips, and marlin sushi rolls that I had made, followed by the main course, lobster tails from the 18 lobsters that we had caught the previous evening. I made the ginger-lime-garlic butter and Carole of Charade cooked the lobster tails and then nicely grilled them in the butter. ##

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Beach Party at Tahanea
06/03/2011, Tahanea Atoll, Tuomotu Archipelago

Although yesterday was Antoine's official birthday, our friends on kid-boats Charade and Callipyge arrived this morning, so we had a party on the beach so that Antoine's birthday could be celebrated with their six children. So the crews of Evergreen, Moondance, Charade, Callipyge, and Ipanema joined us on shore where we made a huge driftwood bonfire, and shared food and drink and birthday cake. Antoine got a spear gun as a gift from Arnaud on Charade (photo), and a hat woven from palm fronds. The kids frolicked in the lagoon while the adults polished off rum & cokes.

At 8 PM Arnaud and Carole from Charade and Tomas from Callipyge came out to pick me up; I took them to the tidepools on the ocean side of the atoll and showed them how and where to find lobster. We walked in ankle- to knee- deep water in the tidepools looking for and collecting lobster; our haul was 18 lobsters. Two hours walking in the tidepools sure wore me out, by legs feel like rubber now!

Tomorrow we are getting together for a lobster-with-garlic-butter feast at lunch time. Charade will also be grilling a grouper they caught and we'll be bringing over the garlic butter and some marlin sushi.

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Antoine's Birthday in Tahanea
06/02/2011, Tuomotu Archipelago

Today was Antoine's 13th birthday. We told him some weeks ago, that we didn't have any gifts for him, because there was nothing to buy on the islands that he wanted. He's OK with that. This morning, he said that "my best birthday gift was being in French Polynesia for my birthday". That sure made us happy since that is all we had to offer.

I did order some things from that I knew he would like. This would be a new Nerf dart gun, and some of his favorite books of the "Alex Rider" series. We had the items shipped to an intermediary in the US (, and they will then be shipped to our agent in Papeete, for us to pick up when we arrive there.

Pascale baked a chocolate cake, and we had the crews of Evergreen, Moondance, and Ipanema over for cocktails and hors d'oeuvres, followed by birthday cake.

After cake, we (John, Francois, Joshua, and I) went out after dark with headlamps to the tidepools at low tide to get lobster. This time, with a little more experience and improved technique, we caught 6 lobsters, and only 2 got away. We are saving them for a feast tomorrow.

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Arrival at Tahanea Atoll
06/01/2011, Tuomotu Archipelago

We departed Makemo at sunset and sailed all night, so that we would arrive at our destination, Tahanea Atoll, in daylight and at slack tide. The Tuomotus present special challenges, as each ring shaped atoll has only a few passes to enter, and these passes can have huge, dangerous currents and waves, depending on the tides. So the general practice is to try to time the entry and exit of an atoll at slack tide, which is not easy, since this is not published. We try to time slack tide about 30 minutes after low or high tide, and when we approach the entrance, we look with binoculars at the conditions ahead within the channel. If there are large standing waves in the channel then we heave to and wait until the conditions improve.

We arrived at Tahanea around 7 a.m., but there was a still a very strong current in the channel. So we hove to, and waited a few hours until the tidal current reduced.

On entering the channel, we found the most beautiful anchorage. This place is like what everyone thinks of when they imagine Polynesia.

Like Makemo, Tahanea is like a large inland sea of perfectly flat, calm water. The atoll is large enough so that its waters extend to the horizon; you can't see all of it at once. The ring of coral surrounding it has palm trees and jungle like overgrowth, about 100 yards wide. There is no village and there are no permanent inhabitants, only copra (dried coconut) harvested by farmers who come out here seasonally.

The water here is so clear, you can easily see the anchor on the bottom through 40 feet of water. The bottom is full of coral heads, which the anchor chain can quickly get wrapped up in, so boats here use fenders to keep at least some of the anchor chain off of the bottom, to maintain some of the shock absorbing catenary.

This evening, John and I went out after dark to the tidepools at low tide, with headlamps, to hunt for lobster. We saw several, but grabbing one with your hands requires being very quick and takes a little practice. Also, grabbing these things and throwing them into a bag is a bit intimidating. After five of them got away, we managed to get one, and returned to the boat to have steamed lobster with garlic butter. We'll return the next day and hope to get several more with our improved technique.

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Lots More Fun In Makemo


After more than a week of hanging out in Makemo we are moving on today. Makemo turned out to be a great stop, better than any of us expected. Having the wharf to tie to was a huge plus. We also met lots of locals, especially the kids who were off from school the first week we were here. Another part of what made this a fun stop was the other four boats that we knew from other stops and had lots of fun with here. Had we been the only boat here I am sure it would not have been quite the same.
Reminiscing about life in California.
I joined the crew from Evergreen and Moondance for a dinghy trip across the pass two days ago. I had really been wanting to get over there as the area looked great with a nice white beach and reefs for snorkeling, but the current in the pass was too strong to kayak through (I had tried twice). We had a nice time hanging out on the beach for an hour or so, reminiscing about our sailing experiences in California and other adventures we had all had at home. I also found a few more shells to add to my collection.
Playing at movie night.
Friday night last week was movie night for the village. They project films onto the wall of a building near the harbor. The movies are free but they sell a delicious barbeque dinner to go with it. Between the two movies I entertained the rambunctious and noisy crowd with some Mozart, fiddle music, and Yankee Doodle. They were very appreciative and cheered madly (all the time) so not sure how much they actually heard, but they seemed to enjoy it. It definitely was something different, since I doubt they get violinists here very often.
Me playing violin after dinner.
The parties on Charade have continued nicely. Our last one included a few locals that Carol and Arno met by way of having some sculptures made. They brought some delicious plates of food and we and Charade also made some food. Carol specializes in deserts and made two great pies as well.
Bruce entertaining Victor and Arno.
After dinner Bruce played accordion and Pascale sang a few songs. I also played a few violin pieces. Having the musical entertainment at our parties really adds a nice dimension that normally does not happen at most cruiser get-togethers.
Carol and Thoma in Charade's galley.
At one of our earlier dinner parties.
The day after our big blow out on Charade with the local's, they invited all of us to their house for Sunday lunch. It was a huge affair, with tons of food. Victor barbeques the fish that he catches and it was great. He goes fishing daily and usually comes back with tons of fish. He drives his boat like a cowboy trying to lasso a cow, but with a harpoon in his hand. He herds the fish onto a shallow area and then hurls the harpoon at them while speeding along next to the fish in the boat.
Victor grilling the fish and beef.
Getting ready for lunch at Victor's house.
In between the parties and violin playing I have had time for three scuba dives. Yesterday, my third dive, we went outside the atoll into the open ocean and dove off the front of the atoll. We were down for almost an hour and dove to almost 80 feet. The coral there was amazing. It was the most coral I have ever seen. It stretched all over the place, like huge fields. Two dolphins swam quickly by us, plus we saw a big variety of fish.
Coral growing like a tree.
Ludo, the instructor, floating along.
More coral.

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