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Calou's Blog
Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
Delightful Stay in Mag Bay

We arrived the night before last at Bahia Santa Maria at 2:30 a.m. The moon was full and we entered with a nice wind on a broad reach.

After dropping anchor, we spent a blissful night catching up on sleep, and awoke in this beautiful bay where the water is 82 degrees, crystal clear, and the fish are bountiful. The first day was officially a lazy day, with no organized parties. We took the dinghy to the beach and nearly rolled it over as we landed it in the surf on the beach. Thankfully that turned out okay.

The next day (today), we awoke at about 6 a.m., and I made french toast with eggs sunny side up for breakfast. Today happens to be Pascale and my wedding anniversary (#14). What a glorious place to celebrate our anniversary!

After breakfast we swam in the warm water, ran the dinghy around the anchorage for fun (and looking for Georgia J for naught, alas), and I ran out to another boat to get a bolt to replace a part that we lost in the water.

About that, we lost a few things in the water. One of them was a brand new Uniden VHF radio. damn. I had the thing clipped to my belt as we took the dinghy out. When I looked next, the clip was there but no radio. I shoulda known better than to trust that clip.

Lunchtime came soon enough, so I pulled out the 3rd and last bag of Dorado (mahi mahi) steaks from the fridge. I sauteed the steaks in olive oil with chopped onions, with a cover on so that the moisture was retained, until the fish was cooked and the onions were caramelized. Then I made a tarragon-mustard sauce, (dijon mustard, rice vinegar, a dash of hot sauce, pepper, and tarragon). The result was sublime. Pascale made a fantastic cole slaw using the red cabbage we had, and chopped apple, raisins, and rice vinegar.

After lunch we went to the beach via panga (fishermen's boat) where a huge party was organized by the baja haha folks. They had an excellent band there, that played really great rock n roll music. The band drove all the way from La Paz to be there for us (quite an undertaking).

John and I hiked to the peak of a mountain overlooking the harbor. It took an hour to get to the top, an according to John's GPS, we climbed about a thousand feet.

Now we're back on the boat, preparing dinner and getting ready for our very early departure tomorrow morning, destination Cabo San Lucas. It will take about a day and a half to get there.

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Partying Hard in Turtle Bay

Funny, those don't look like turtles to me..

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11/07/2006 | Jeffdulac
Coucou les fiers navigateurs,
Ah ça fait du bien un peu de terre ferme !
Et on approche tout doucement du Cap
San Lazàro !
The fishing is great!

Oh Mahi

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11/07/2006 | Jeffdulac
Ah les voilà dans la marine de pêche maintant !
Quelle belle dorade coryphène, Bruce bravo !
Bonne route !
11/08/2006 | julle
Bra gjort Bruce, grattis! Jag förmodar att din spis inte var stor nog, hur lagade ni fisken?
Passage to Mag Bay -- Day 2

Last night the winds held up throughout the afternoon at around 12 to 15 knots on the beam, ideal sailing conditions. After dark, around 8 PM, the winds increased to 25 knots from astern. The GRIB forecast that we received over Single Sideband Radio, and the forecast from the Baja fleet, predicted 12 knots in the afternoon lightening to under 10 in the evening, so this windy condition was unexpected. We put a double reef in the main and furled the jib. I then went to take my pre-watch nap from 9 to 12:00. When I woke up at midnight the winds had lightened again to the 12 knot range, so I took out both reefs and sailed all nighton a broad reach until Pascale took over at 4:30 a.m.

The temperatures are noticeably warmer, I sailed all night without a jacket. Daytime temperatures are quite warm and pleasant. The water temperature is 78 degrees.

Our ETA for Bahia de Magdalena (Mag Bay) is about 18 hours from now, which would have us arriving at about 3 a.m. on Nov. 6. That all depends on the winds, of course.

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11/06/2006 | Jeffdulac
Hello la marine je vois que ça traîne un peu !
Allez border moi ce foc bande de fénéants !
Du nerf que diable ou je vous envoie le
capitaine d'armes !!!
Bisous à tous !
et lisez un peu les commentaires !
Jean François
sailing to Bahia Magdalena

yesterday's beach party at Bahia de las Tortugas (Turtle Bay) was quite an event. There were several hundred sailors who all brought potluck, and the locals had set up a dance floor and DJ, and a taco vendor sold great tacos for 10 pesos (1 dollar) each. People had to arrive by beaching their dinghy in the surf and one dinghy got flipped by the waves. There was a tug of war between the sexes, with women on one side (a hundred or so) and fewer men on the other (maybe 30). The women won handily. Pascale and I and another sailor from a boat called Vanishing Point shopped in the little town for a pinata and candy and trinkets to fill it with, and we had a pinata party for the 20 or so Ha-Ha kids.

This morning at 8 a.m. the fleet started, except us an a few other boats who lagged behind for various reasons. We had to get diesel fuel, and we had made an appointment the day before for diesel to be delivered to our boat at 7 a.m., but we have learned that the Mexicans here treat appointments and time estimates very liberally. We finally fueled up and were on our way at 9 a.m.

So now we're sailing on beam reach with about 16 knots of wind, just about perfect sailing conditions. Our boat speed is 7 knots. Our destination is Bahia Magdalena, which is about 220 nautical miles away. There will be absolutely no services where we will be anchoring, no town, no civilization, just a beach. But you can count on there being a good Ha-Ha party.

We just caught our first fish! It's a small tuna, we think a bluefin. I guess we'll be having tuna for lunch!

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11/04/2006 | Darroll
Thanks for the update and all the great information during the Ha-Ha. It's great for those of us watching the progress.


11/04/2006 | will
congrads on the first fish. more to come.
Turtle Bay

On the Pier. Umm, didn't there used to be TWO kids

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The Cuddlebugs at Catalina

Casino in the backgroun

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local color

We got up after a restful night sleep at anchor in Bahia de las Tortugas, or Turtle Bay, to warm sunshine and pretty warm (72 F) water. When we arrived, we were at the outer fringe of the anchorage, but when we got up in the morning, a hundred or so new boats had arrived.

We found that our anchor light had burned out, so we ran our running lights all night. We'll go up the mast tomorrow and try to change the bulb.

A weather system is scheduled to come in tomorrow, with 35 knots wind forecasted. This will last a few days and hopefully be finished by the time we are supposed to depart. If not we will stay put until it does. We're not on a schedule, so there's no sense in beating ourselves up with bad weather.

We had "lunch" on shore at the restaurant by the beach. By the time the food arrived, we were ready to call it "dinner". But this was no surprise, since the restaurant -- and the town -- are overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of "yates". This town normally gets few or no visitors, but one weekend a year, they get 200 boats! I think they make a whole years' revenue in this weekend.

The town is very rustic, with no paved roads, and one tiny grocery. The meat in the meat case was covered with flies. I took a pass on the meat.

They were charging a dollar to use the toilet at the restaurant. (grumble)

The fleet is having a big party this evening at a restaurant in town, but we're in need of rest and will have dinner aboard. Pascale's making spaghetti with tomato sauce and sausage. We'll have a cozy dinner and watch a movie.

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11/03/2006 | Gloria
i've been reading your posts, as I havea friend crewing on this trip. Wonder if you had a list of other boats posting blogs?
His name is Ron Sherwin.
11/10/2006 | Bruce
Yes, such a list wouldn't be a bad idea, but I don't know of one. It would be great to have links to the known blogs from the Baja Haha we site. Maybe suggest it to the Baja Haha organizers for next year.

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