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Calou's Blog
Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
Tarahumara baby
01/21/2007

We saw this adorable baby on the platform while waiting for the train to take us back to Los Mochis.

A word about the train: it has full dining and bar service, but credit cards are not accepted. Furthermore, there were NO ATMs at any stops along our voyage. So we found that, on our return trip, we had just barely enough cash on hand to pay for our meals. The train staff pitied us and gave us a price discount so that we could purchase full meals.

Not being able to enjoy snacks, sodas, wine, coffee, etc. during the 9 hour train ride, put quite a damper on things! Lesson learned: when starting a Copper Canyon train trip, bring as much cash with you as you can, to cover all your incidental expenses, souvenirs, and the meals and snacks on the train both ways. I'd recommend bringing at least 3000 pesos per person, preferably more.

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01/24/2007 | kate
Thanks for your informative posts! What communication system are you using to update your blog? Sattelite phone or ICom? We will be following your path next fall.
02/20/2007 | Robin McNally
Great photo!
03/21/2007 | Bruce
In answer to the question below, we use a wifi connecetion when we're in a harbor or anchorage that has one, and when we're at sea, we use an Icom 802 Single Sideband Radio and "Sailmail" to update our blog with text and the occasional photo.
10/23/2008 | Kitten
you dont want to be at a train sation for to long you might git hungry. you might want to eat your sister or brother!
Tarahumara family cliffside
01/21/2007

We were astonished to see this family, with the young girls and babies, perched just a few feet from a vertical drop of hundreds of feet, as the mother made and sold baskets.

It gave us shivers to watch the toddler girl prance around a few steps from the precipice. The older siblings made sure she didn't fall.

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Tarahumara log cabin
01/20/2007, Copper Canyon

This is a typical Tarahumara dwelling, a tiny log cabin with a wood burning stove, a vegetable garden, no electricity and no indoor plumbing. There are hundreds such dwellings around and in the canyon in the area where Francois traversed on horseback.

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Powell family enjoys lunch overlooking the canyon
01/20/2007

The dining room of the Mirador Hotel has very good food and great views of the canyon.

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02/20/2007 | Robin McNally
Wow! Looks like you are having a fabulous time....what a blessing to be able to do this with your family!
Tarahumara girls
01/20/2007

These girls make and sell their baskets at Copper Canyon. They are a photogenic, and mysterious, people.

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04/18/2007 | Rita
My boss came back from a trip to Copper Canyon today and gave me a little pine needle basket and told me about the Taramuhara. I googled it and found your blog with the pictures of women making these baskets.....I have a blog too and like to get comments, so I thought you may too. It looks like you're on a long and interesting trip, so I will check in once in a while to see what you're doing. Love your pictures!!! Good luck with your trip,
Rita
Pascale meets Taramuhara girls
01/20/2007, Copper Canyon

Pascale gives gifts (little bracelets) to little Taramuhara indian girls, in front of their log cabin home built into a cave on a canyon cliff.

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Tarahumara women making baskets
01/20/2007, Copper Canyon

The Tarahumara women (and girls) learn to make intricate baskets from grass and long pine needles, from a very young age. The skill and quality of the baskets is very impressive. It takes an entire day to make a small basket that then sells for 2 to 3 U.S. dollars.

The Tarahumara women are unbelievably circumspect; they will not look at you when accepting money for a purchase, nor acknowledge you at all. They typically hide their faces behind a scarf or veil. They will not negotiate on their prices.

The typical transaction will go like this:

[buyer] Quento questa? [how much?]

[vendor, averting her eyes, and speaking very softly] Treinte. [30 pesos, about $3 US]

[buyer, hands money to vendor]

[vendor, without looking at buyer, takes money and says nothing].

I think their circumspect attitude comes from their value of showing respect to strangers.

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The Mirador Hotel
01/20/2007

Here's a view of the Mirador Hotel, perched on the rim of Copper Canyon

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