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Calou's Blog
Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
Isla San Marcos

We motored north from Santo Domingo to Isla San Marcos today, departing 9 a.m. and arriving about 3:30 p.m.

It was a flat calm the whole way, with true wind speed never exceeding 2 knots. Except, of course, once we arrived, when a breeze of about 10 knots piped up.

We were visited by a huge pod of bottle nose dolphins, that played in the bow wave and followed us for several minutes before rejoining their brethren.

In Bahia de Concepcion, the water temperature was 90 degrees F. Here at Isla San Marcos, it's a much cooler 80 degrees F. The afternoon air temperature remains about 100 F.

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Playa Santo Domingo
06/19/2007, Sea of Cortez

We sailed north from Playa Burro day before yesterday, hoping to make it to Muleje and Punta Chivato. However, we encountered 22 knot winds from the East. The winds did not concern us, but the anchorages we were heading for are good for North or South winds, but totally unprotected from the East. This would have likely ben a very unpleasant, or even dangerous, anchorage on a lee shore at our destination.

With that in mind, we headed to the nearest anchorage offering protection from the east, which was Santo Domingo, on the northern extremity of the eqst end fo the Bahia de Concepcion.

There's a boat here, INCLINATION, captained by GARTH and his dog VELA, who's a regular here. Garth is really well connected with this area, he has an uncle at Mujele, who grows vegetables (he gave us tomatoes), and other family at a fishing village on the peninsula (he gave us come clams also, and we bought a kilo of fish fillets from the villagers). All I can say is, Garth on INCLINATION is a great guy to know, extremely nice and helpful.

He even showed our boys how to dive for clams, and the boys brought up a dozen "chocolates" (clams named for the brown color of their shells) and "steamers" (traditional U.S. clams, so named because the only way to open them is to steam them).

So we had a lunch of clams, even ultra-picky Antoine tasted his first clam, and loved it).

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Video: Sailing from La Paz to Puerto Escondido
06/17/2007, Sea of Cortez

Here's a video with the highlights of our sail from La Paz northward into the Sea of Cortez, to Puerto Escondido. We are visited by a pod of dolphins along the way!

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06/18/2007 | Ross Welburn
This looks like the adventure of a lifetime! So much you have learned about navigation,sailing,the pacific ocean,mexico,spanish,fish,porpoises,communication(voice and data),food,the list goes on... few people could pull it off as well as you two can. I wonder if we could experience something like what you have done? You have spent years preparing for these trips. Perhaps we could meet you in a coastal city in mexico for a few days sometime.
06/20/2007 | jeff
Wouah ! super l'accompagnement des dauphins !
Cela me rappelle plein de bons souvenirs !
Bises à tous et bon vent, car il n'y en a pas beaucoup dirait on ! comme on dit dans la marine c'est la "pétole" !
Internet access in Concepcion Bay!

We found internet access in the most unbelievable spot, at a beach in Bahia de Concepcion called Playa de los Burros (Burro beach), a palapa at the water's edge. This hut has a palm leaf roof, stick walls, solar panels for electricity, no piped in water, no plumbing, but a satellite dish for internet access!

There's also a rustic palapa restaurant on the same beach called Bertha's where we had lunch and dinner (a Palapa is a wood hut with its roof made from palm leaves).

Today we went snorkeling in the very warm waters. The temperature at the surface is about body temperature (98 degrees), so hot that it's like a hot bath. But if you dive a few feet under it gets refreshingly cooler. We came up with a few clams and about a dozen oysters.

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Bahia de Concepcion

It was a long and rolly night at Juanico. There was a thunderstorm far to the east of us with silent lighting flashes every few seconds. The east wind and rollers continued til 5 a.m. when it became calm.

We raised anchor at 8:30 a.m. and are heading to Bahia de Concepcion. We're heading to an anchoage called Posada Concepcion in a little cove called Coyote Bay. It's an 8 hour sail so we'll arrive soon.

We saw a pod of huge whales, and numerous dolphin. We tried, but failed, to catch fish. We did hook a bird though. A dumb booby dived on our lure. I had to cover him with a towel so he wouldn't peck me while I removed the lure from his wing.

Navigating here takes great care. The charts often show our boat position miles inland, because the charts are so inaccurate. Radar becomes an essential tool to determine, and correct for, the errors in the charts. The radar always gives a true reading of how far away land is.

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San Juanico

We sailed north to San Juanico, a beautiful cove with sandstone cliffs, white sand beaches, and rocky spires rising out of the water. It was a beautiful sail, with 10 knots of breeze on the starboard beam.

The anchorage is a bit rough, since it's exposed to the east and that's where the wind is coming from.

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Puerto De Ballandra
06/14/2007, Isla Carmen

At Puerto Escondido this morning we refueled and took one last swim in the lap pool at the port headquarters before heading out in the 100+ degree temperatures. We sailed to the noth end of Isla Carmen, to a tiny cove called Puerto De Ballandra.

There are about 20 sailboats anchored here and there will be a potluck party on the beach at 6 PM tonight.

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