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Calou's Blog
Cruising with the crew of CALOU on the Baja Ha-ha and Pacific Puddle Jump
Crossing the Sea of Cortez to San Carlos

We left Santa Rosalia a 5:45 a.m. and are sailing north east across the Sea of Cortez to San Carlos. The seas were flat at first and now we have about 4 foot waves. The winds are about 16 to 18 knots on a close reach which makes for excellent sailing conditions.

We put out the fishing lines and caught a Dorado this morning. Francois and Pascale filleted it and we're planning to have the fish for dinner this evening when we arrive in San Carlos.

We're about midway across the Sea of Cortez now, about 6 more hours to go.

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At port in Santa Rosalia

We arrived in the quaint town of Santa Rosalia, nicknamed El Ciudad De Madera (the City of Wood) because of its unique wood architecture. In 1885 a French mining company established a copper mine in the area, and built the many homes and buildings of the town out of wood. So the town's architecture has a distinct look reminiscent of France.

It even has a steel church, designed by the French engineer Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame).

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Whale at Isla San Marcos
06/21/2007, Isla San Marcos

We were sitting on the cockpit of our boat while anchored at Isla San Marcos in the early evening, when I saw what looked like a fin approaching us from astern. I said, "Look, Pascale, a dolphin or a shark!" I wasn't sure what it was.

A minute later, a huge whale, about the size of our boat, surfaced right next to us, about 15 feet off our port side, exposing her entire back and letting out a big puff of air, before descending back into the depths. What a magical moment.

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06/30/2007 | jeff
Coucou tout le monde !
Nous espérons voir les photos de ce beau cétacé ;)
et éventuellement de l'aileron de requin... :)
Bises à tous et bons vents !
Isla San Marcos

We motored north from Santo Domingo to Isla San Marcos today, departing 9 a.m. and arriving about 3:30 p.m.

It was a flat calm the whole way, with true wind speed never exceeding 2 knots. Except, of course, once we arrived, when a breeze of about 10 knots piped up.

We were visited by a huge pod of bottle nose dolphins, that played in the bow wave and followed us for several minutes before rejoining their brethren.

In Bahia de Concepcion, the water temperature was 90 degrees F. Here at Isla San Marcos, it's a much cooler 80 degrees F. The afternoon air temperature remains about 100 F.

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Playa Santo Domingo
06/19/2007, Sea of Cortez

We sailed north from Playa Burro day before yesterday, hoping to make it to Muleje and Punta Chivato. However, we encountered 22 knot winds from the East. The winds did not concern us, but the anchorages we were heading for are good for North or South winds, but totally unprotected from the East. This would have likely ben a very unpleasant, or even dangerous, anchorage on a lee shore at our destination.

With that in mind, we headed to the nearest anchorage offering protection from the east, which was Santo Domingo, on the northern extremity of the eqst end fo the Bahia de Concepcion.

There's a boat here, INCLINATION, captained by GARTH and his dog VELA, who's a regular here. Garth is really well connected with this area, he has an uncle at Mujele, who grows vegetables (he gave us tomatoes), and other family at a fishing village on the peninsula (he gave us come clams also, and we bought a kilo of fish fillets from the villagers). All I can say is, Garth on INCLINATION is a great guy to know, extremely nice and helpful.

He even showed our boys how to dive for clams, and the boys brought up a dozen "chocolates" (clams named for the brown color of their shells) and "steamers" (traditional U.S. clams, so named because the only way to open them is to steam them).

So we had a lunch of clams, even ultra-picky Antoine tasted his first clam, and loved it).

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Video: Sailing from La Paz to Puerto Escondido
06/17/2007, Sea of Cortez

Here's a video with the highlights of our sail from La Paz northward into the Sea of Cortez, to Puerto Escondido. We are visited by a pod of dolphins along the way!

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06/18/2007 | Ross Welburn
This looks like the adventure of a lifetime! So much you have learned about navigation,sailing,the pacific ocean,mexico,spanish,fish,porpoises,communication(voice and data),food,the list goes on... few people could pull it off as well as you two can. I wonder if we could experience something like what you have done? You have spent years preparing for these trips. Perhaps we could meet you in a coastal city in mexico for a few days sometime.
06/20/2007 | jeff
Wouah ! super l'accompagnement des dauphins !
Cela me rappelle plein de bons souvenirs !
Bises à tous et bon vent, car il n'y en a pas beaucoup dirait on ! comme on dit dans la marine c'est la "pétole" !
Internet access in Concepcion Bay!

We found internet access in the most unbelievable spot, at a beach in Bahia de Concepcion called Playa de los Burros (Burro beach), a palapa at the water's edge. This hut has a palm leaf roof, stick walls, solar panels for electricity, no piped in water, no plumbing, but a satellite dish for internet access!

There's also a rustic palapa restaurant on the same beach called Bertha's where we had lunch and dinner (a Palapa is a wood hut with its roof made from palm leaves).

Today we went snorkeling in the very warm waters. The temperature at the surface is about body temperature (98 degrees), so hot that it's like a hot bath. But if you dive a few feet under it gets refreshingly cooler. We came up with a few clams and about a dozen oysters.

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