03 July 2017 | Marstrand, Sweden
01 July 2017 | Harmano, Sweden
01 July 2017 | Lysekil, Sweden
30 June 2017 | Hunnebostrand, Sweden
30 June 2017 | Edholmarna, Sweden
30 June 2017 | Skjaerhalden Marina, Norway
28 June 2017 | Kalvo, Sweden
28 June 2017 | Kalvo, Sweden
24 June 2017 | Fjallbacka, Sweden
24 June 2017 | Gullholmen, Sweden
22 June 2017 | Skarmhamn, Sweden
22 June 2017 | Langedrag, Sweden
19 June 2017 | Langedrag, Sweden
18 June 2017 | Langedrag, Sweden
16 June 2017 | Langedrag, Sweden
15 June 2017 | Vrango, Sweden
15 June 2017 | Vrango, Sweden
15 June 2017 | Fjordholmen, Sweden

Dawn departure and beautiful sail

03 July 2017 | Marstrand, Sweden
Marty/sunny, hot in the sun
Saturday July 1, 2017

Photo: Guards demonstrating use of 18th century guns.

Even before sunrise the sky is not dark. We were up at 0330 to make coffee and do the things necessary for departure. Since we are the outside boat we needed to be on time for the others. The wind had dropped to 10-12 knots and was a bit more from the NE than ENE that we had been experiencing. The seas had laid down quickly because the wind had come from the land and didn’t build up as it had when we returned from Norway.

We set the spinnaker and had a wonderful sail on the port tack all the way to Marstrand staying outside of most of the islands. Our 16-mile trip took 3 hours, max speed over 8 knots.

After we tied up, we all took naps. Our morning activity was a guided tour of the Carlsten Fortress. Marstrand was originally founded in the 13th century by Norway’s King Hakon Hakonsson. In 1658 the province of Bohuslan became Swedish and the castle was built. The province of Bohuslan is the area along the coast from Goteborg north to the Norwegian border—the area where we have been sailing.

A uniformed guard opened the gate to the bridge over the moat where two guards with 18th century guns stood guard. Then the “commandant” appeared on the bridge to greet us and begin the tour with a demonstration of how these guns were fired – step-by-step – loading the gunpowder, tamping it down etc. The guide explained that the king could not get people to do the expansion of the castle that he wanted so he used prisoners. A prison cell showed the implements of torture and detention. In a large courtyard our cruise director was called upon to demonstrate the gun loading and firing procedure. Then cruise participant Nick Brown who was celebrating his 85th birthday was given a cannon salute! Our guide was excellent!

The weather this last day of our cruise was excellent—warm – almost hot, sunny and gentle breezes. We took a hike around the perimeter of Marstrand which is an island linked to the mainland by a cable ferry. No cars are allowed on the island except emergency vehicles or for special events like the racing that will be here this week.

The cruise farewell dinner was in the GKSS clubhouse and restaurant Shanti Shanti—tuna sashimi appetizer and entrecote main dish both done in Asian style. Very delicious. There were more short speeches and accolades for the organizers and directors. A final trophy was awarded to each skipper from Cruise Director Stefan Holmgren: the base has the GKSS burgee and “Swedish Cruise 2017 – Canty.” Mounted on the base is a Viking Warrior in a suit of armor with a sword & shield. Unique commemoration of the daily skipper’s meetings! Stefan’s endurance is legendary!







Late departure from Karingon to Marstrand due to high wind & rough seas

02 July 2017 | Karingon, Sweden
Marty/sunny, warm and VERY windy
Friday, June 30, 2017

Photo: The Karingon Rescue Boat bringing in a small sailboat during the high winds and rough seas on Friday June 30th.

We spent the day hiking around the island, taking lots of photos and waiting for improvements in the weather. First departure might be 1400, then it changed to 1600 and later and finally 0400 on Saturday. A couple of boats did leave early and had safe trips to Marstrand. Canty’s crew was quite relieved to wait but our skipper said he had no intention of going out in the conditions we were seeing.

It was a beautiful day apart from the wind. The evening sun provide great light for photos. And we all went to bed early for our 0400 departure.






A magical island surrounded by rocks and protected by the Swedish Sea Rescue Association

02 July 2017 | Karingon, Sweden
Marty/Sunny and windy
Thursday June 29, 2017

Photo: Statue at the entrance to Karingon harbor

We headed south for a very short 5-mile sail under jib alone in ENE winds up to 34.3 knots. Max speed over 8-knots. The inner harbor at Karingon is quite small so Stefan, our cruise director, has a specific plan for fitting all of us in and doing so safely. He called each boat on the VHF to signal when to come in and where to go. Canty was rafted outside of Night Watch and Solaire.

A very interesting and informative talk was given by the two only paid members of the Swedish Sea Rescue team on Karingon. The association is non-governmental and operates almost entirely thru unpaid, highly trained volunteers. This area is exceptionally dangerous due to the large number of rocks to seaward. They carry out as many as 1,000 missions a month most being boats hitting the rocks and lines caught in propellers. When a 112 emergency call is made it is relayed from Gothenborg to the appropriate station. Many in our group made donations and or became members. Paul joined as we have in the past in Ireland, Scotland and Norway. The Swedish Rescue program is a world leader in this field. One of the men speaking to us participates in many national programs sharing the latest technology and expertise. He’s involved thru an organization called MASS rescue that operates worldwide. He leads training here on Karingon and elsewhere.

Stefan and his business partner Michael have built the Skipper’s House Hotel here that has 8 rooms and space for conferences and training of rescue volunteers. This business venture has helped the island itself. Karingon has about 80 year-round residents but swells to 3,000 to 4,000 in the summer with nearly 1000-day trippers coming on the ferry. The island store was in danger of closing but is now surviving thru the work of training program and other businesses that are strengthened.

Michael and another man gave us a guided tour of the island. Karingon is a “crown” island meaning that it has rights granted by the king. One can walk anywhere on the island because it is “community property.” People are not allowed to expand their property with gardens and fences. Water was scarce prior to a pipeline connecting it with resources from the mainland. An interesting statue is at the harbor entrance. It depicts a woman bringing soil from the mainland in her apron. Cow dung was also brought and used along with seaweed to establish small gardens.

People rowed to the mainland to attend church services until a church was built in about 1850. The pastor of nearly 50 years was like the island’s mayor. The stories we heard were fascinating.

We were treated to a party at the Skipper’s House Hotel where two cruise participants shared their personal experiences of sailing this coast in the 1950’s and of the historic sailing yacht Dorade.

All day the wind continued to increase. Cruise leaders recommended delaying tomorrow’s departure and to wait for the 0800 skipper’s meeting for instructions. Winds were steady in the 30-knot range.







Parades and prize-winning hats

01 July 2017 | Harmano, Sweden
Marty/sunny, warm & breezy
Wednesday June 28, 2017

Photo: Stefan and Jon Holmgren, at the hat party on Harmano. Real antique firearms and swords.

The whole cruise fleet departed Lysekil at about 1000 under power for a parade south passing Gullholmen on our way to Harmano which is the big island just south of Gullholmen. Loyal was the leader of the parade. As she passed Gullholmen she fired two cannon salutes but stopped after someone on land complained about the noise.

We sailed a short distance from Gullholmen to the anchorage at Harmano where we were fortunate to pick up a mooring. The plan for Harmano was to have the fleet form a Star Raft – sterns in the center, bows to the outside of the circle. Four boats position themselves at the cardinal marks N-E-S-W and others go into place in between. It was decided fairly early to abandon this activity because it was getting too windy.

We took our dinghy ashore for a Swedish fish dinner at the Café Wintervallen. Dinner was preceded by a “hat party.” Everyone had been creating some form of hat. Quite a few had purchased fluorescent colored wigs when we stopped at Smogen. A few came prepared with very creative hats. We made ours using our imagination and available materials. Our theme was that we were all some kind of navigational aid. Doug arranged signal flags on his cap, Paul folded an antique chart of Mallorca and Minorca like a pointy sailor’s hat, Dale was a white and black varde (a Scandinavian stone monument maker) and I was a white lighthouse with a red top and red, green, yellow and white “lights” on top. Marianne Bernadotte (Swiss) had a lovely hat with miniature Swedish flags and her Swedish husband, Christian, had a Swedish blue ball cap embroidered in Swedish yellow letters—Make Sweden Great Again and on the back – Swedes Unite. They live in Shaker Height, OH. Stefan and his son Jon were the hits of the hat party as you might have guessed from the photo.

The fish dinner was superb. We each had a tray of shrimp, crayfish, and crab. There was also a bowl with sill in a very delicious creamy sauce with dill and other wonderful seasoning. Dessert was a brownie with whipped cream and fresh strawberries. We all sat outside at picnic tables, bundled up in jackets to keep warm in the wind.

We had tied our dinghies to a funny looking flat bottomed boat which we later found out was a sauna! As the party was winding down it filled up with people—fully clothed—partying with glasses of wine.








50th Birthday Party for Night Watch.

01 July 2017 | Lysekil, Sweden
Marty/Sunny breezy
Tuesday June 27, 2017

Photo: Night Watch is a Sparkman & Stephens Aluminum Yawl built in 1967 in Germany by Abeking & Rasmussen. She is 16.7 meters (56 feet) in length, beam 4.1 meters and draft of 2.5 meters. Her owner David Tunnick has sailed her multiple times transatlantic including singled-handed trips. She is the third boat from the left in the photo. Dark blue hull.

We departed under power for our 17-mile trip at 1031 following 4 other cruise boats lead by Penelope. We went though the Sotekanalen, a narrow canal that was built in 1935 allowing boats to avoid the sometimes more dangerous waters outside around Sote Huvud. It has impressive cliffs in places and farmland in other sections. There is also a swing bridge allowing car traffic to travel between the mainland and the island of Orst.

We made a stop at Smogen, a very old fishing village that is now much developed with summer cottages, restaurants and tourist shops. On advice from Stefan, we had a wonderful typical Swedish open-faced sandwich with mayonnaise and hardboiled egg at a restaurant overlooking the narrow harbor.

We sailed for the last part of the trip with just the jib arriving at Lysekil at 1630. Dale and I found some party favors (paper horns, balloons and sparklers) at the local grocery store. As we arrived at the party we all blew the horns and were then followed by Penelope’s and Golden Eye’s skippers playing ‘Happy Birthday” on their bugle and trumpet. Both could use some lessons but that might make it less hysterical. The sparklers stayed in their box – the sails and wooden docks couldn’t be risked.

After dinner Doug, Dale and Paul and I walked to a beautiful park across from the grocery store. Stunning flowers beds and a beautiful circular fountain. There is a large, beautiful church up on a hill – it was closed for the day. We also saw two architecturally very interesting homes at the marina. Lysekil was founded in 1850 and was a popular summer city for city people. Today the population of 7,600 is engaged in the petroleum and fishing industries.







Lovely narrow canal in Hamburgsund

30 June 2017 | Hunnebostrand, Sweden
Marty/sunny and windy
Monday June 26, 2017

Photo: Rough seas after two days of strong wind

We departed at 0750 after some concern about getting our anchor up. We thought we might have hooked a cable but it turned out to be a very large limb that was perhaps attached to a sunken tree. Thick black mud on the bottom. We powered out of this fairway the way we came in and then put up our main and jib and headed south.

We have been flying the NAS burgee from our masthead for the cruise but the top section came free and flew into the water. We did three 360’s trying to retrieve it but it must have sunk pretty quickly. It was a good man-over-board drill.

We opted to take an inner route as the seas were still rough from the storm passing to the west of Salto, Tjarno & Rasso and the coming off the wind to pass to the east of Lindo, Kalvo, & Trosso the islands where we spent Midsummer. Our route took us thru the Hamburgsund Canal. No sailing is allowed in this stretch thru some pastoral like sections with some rocky cliffs in places. We went to the west of Danholmen where there is a house and lovely statue that were owned by Ingrid Bergman.

Our destination was Hunnebostrand, an old fishing village dating to 1500. Our sail five hour, 35-mile sail had winds of 28.5 knots and while sailing max speed of 8+ knots. We were treated to a lovely party and tour of the Loyal once we were tied up in the harbor.







Vessel Name: Canty
Vessel Make/Model: J-42
Hailing Port: Camden, Maine, USA
Crew: Paul & Marty Rogers
About:
We sailed transatlantic in 2004 from Camden, Maine via the Azores to Kinsale, Ireland & continued along the west coast of Ireland to Northern Ireland & ending on the west coast of Scotland. In 2005 we sailed to the Outer Hebrides, Orkney, Shetland & northern Norway. [...]
Extra: We are members of the Cruising Club of America and also the Ocean Cruising Club. Visit the OCC website at www.oceancruisingclub.org.
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