Tuesday June 8, 2016

Photo: One of the Lions of the Naxians at the entry to the sanctuary at Delos. Existing from the end of the 7th century BC, the lions were perhaps a row of animals bordering from the east side of the avenue, by which those landing in the port would reach the northern entrance of the sanctuary.

The winds blew 20 to 27 knots during the night – when we had the instruments on. We slept fairly well considering all the noise of the wind.

To get ashore we could have gone into the beach at Ornos, heading into the wind and getting very wet. The properties ashore west of where we are anchored are all private and posted “Do Not Enter” and surrounded by high stonewalls. We spotted a strip between two estates that was rough and rocky but has access to the road at the top. Not an easy climb up but we arrive dry. At the bus stop in Ornos we meet the Australians who are aboard the charter boat ahead of us. They went in via the beach and were very wet.

We took the bus into Mykonos Town and found the office for Delos Tours. They are twice a day – 1000 and 1700 – we are 10 minutes late for the first trip but we sign up for the later one. Tickets are €50 each for the RT ferry (one hour) and a guide (2 hours).

We spent the time wandering around the lovely narrow streets in the old town (all the joints between the paving stones are whitewashed), visiting the windmills that face north above the harbor, and the beautiful historic Panagia Paraportiani Church. It’s name means “Our Lady of the Side Gate” because its entrance was found in the side gate next to the medieval castle in the oldest section of the city. It is apparently the most photographed church in Greece. Unfortunately it was not open. The thousands of touristy or fancy boutique shops of Mykonos are interesting. A few draw us in but failed to entice us to spend money.

The boat trip to Delos was about 40 minutes – ten minutes longer than normal due to the wind and seas. The route is normally around the north end to the harbor on the west side but this day the captain went around the south end. The return trip was dramatic—pounding into the wind driven seas. Our guide took us to a spot within the ruins of houses that provided shelter from the strong wind. She was a great guide; very nice and knowledgeable.
Delos is a small barren island 6 miles west of Mykonos and 5 square kilometers in area. It is not possible to take private boats there without special permission. In mythology Delos is the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Settlement began around the 10 century BC and in the 7th century BC it became a religious center. Athenians formed a confederacy around 500 BC and established Delos as the center of Mediterranean trade. As part of the purification of the island, women about to give birth were taken to the neighboring island of Rinia and people were buried on Rinia. Delos became rather independent after the Macedonians conquered the Athenians in 315 BC. Later Romans, Egyptians, Syrians and Italians all continued to develop Delos and bring their cultures. The decline was quite sudden in 88BC with the Mithridatic War. The city was burned down, temples demolished and 20,000 of the 30,000 inhabitants were slaughtered. Now after archeological excavations it is alive with tourists.

Canty spent the day snug on her anchor and we were delighted to return to her at the end of a fun day.