I am now in a different weather pattern so winds are lighter and not so friendly. However, I did manage to single hand sail about half the way to San Jose Del Cabo and moored for 3 nights at the very large marina, with very large boats. Carpe Ventus looked alien amongst the shiny new megayachts. Arrival was just before dark and I was greeted by security unaware of my reservation. Once that was settled, I asked if there is a Dia del Muertes “celebration” in town. Between broken English, Spanish and google maps, he shows me it is about 4 miles to the town center where indeed there would be music, food and dancing. . Break out the bike and off I go; in the dark; with no light; on everything from dirt bike paths to highways. And to add difficulty, many roads are being worked on and detours abound. Well, ok, I did put my headlamp on strobe and turn it backwards to warn those behind, and carried my flashlight for tricky parts. Fortunately, the moon’s luminescence guided me downtown.

It was worth the trip though. About 1000 locals and several hundred gringos were packed into the historic area around the main cathedral. A stage allowed for continuous singing and dancing, and many decorative altars were set up. I think they were competitive in there showing. Beautiful costumes and a horse rounded out the affair. Many of the stores were open, and the art galleries boasted some of the finest Mexican art I have seen to date.

The festival revolves around honouring/remembering people who have died and many homes set up the 7-level altar with pictures of their loved ones, a cross, and arch, cut paper, candles, water, flowers, skeletons, food, bread, and sometimes alcohol to help remember the dead, entertain and feed them, and to remind all that life is short. (according to a hand out I got). At the town centre, it seemed more like celebrities that were being honored including a few musicians, and even one for Hugh Hefner. They do have a sense of humour for sure. All very colourful and respectful; I’m glad I made the trek to town. A stop on the say home for a beer and excellent Chiles Rellanos rounded out the day.

Another bike trip to town the next day for supplies, cash, and the like. You have to love a place that has a book store at the top of the hill with a sign so large it can’t be missed. They have their priorities right, but sadly, it was closed. Two nights here were not enough to see all that San Jose had to offer, and I think it has been my favourite town to date. I know I will return here with Glenda later, so it is off to the next whistle stop.

On to Bahai los Frailes (the monks) which has a rock that does eerily resemble three monks cloistered together. Getting there was not ½ the fun as it was a long day of mostly motoring (my least favourite). Along the way, I did hook a decent tuna. I was down below and didn’t notice and it run all the line out on the reel (400yds). It was a long reel in, and I don’t think the fish even noticed until it was 100 yds away and then the fight began. I got it all the way to the boat where it nicely wrapped itself around the wind vane (self steering) and took off. More spaghetti for dinner!

Los Frailes is the jump off point to Mazatlán and there were several boats there waiting for weather. I hooked up with Ken and his two nephews on Punta Rai. We had briefly seen each other about 3 times since San Francisco and finally got a chance to say more than hi. I took the 3 of them in the dingy to the reef around the corner and we got some good snorkeling in. A pleasant day for sure. A second day for maintenance and it was on to Bahai Los Muertos.

Which is a pleasant anchorage; no swell; sandy bottom with water so clear, the anchor smiles back at me 20’ down. Spent a couple of days here fussing with repairs; but had several swims a day; lunch at the Beach Club and met up with Steve; a long-time cruiser whose engine died 7 years ago and he never replaced it. He claims to have learned patience! Later, I realized I had encountered a legend as many people jumped to action to get him into La Paz after his 3 day journey (took me 7 hours motoring). Everyone knew Steve!

One highlight of the bay was a delightful swim after sweating in the engine area. Under the boat were so many fish, the ocean bottom was obscured. I attempted to hand feed them and old fish skin and rice were their favourites. Dazzling. Watching the swarm move in a fluid rhythm was fascinating. At dusk, dozens of mantra rays started leaping out of the water, doing back flips and twists. No idea why, just a wonder to gawk at.

But, move along I must, so a motor sail to La Paz completed this part of the journey.