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05/24/2012, Tobago Cays
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05/21/2012, Saline Bay, Mayreau
We left Bequia on Sunday and had two great sailing days in the Grenadines (south of Bequia and north of Grenada). First we sailed to Corbay, Canouan which is a small protected bay at the north end of the island. Our friends from Quebec sailed with us and we had the only two boats in the bay. We also had a nice snorkel and Dennis spotted a Lionfish. Lionfish are highly poisonous and are starting to be an invasive species in the Caribbean. We enjoyed a nice sunset and Danielle's margaritas.
Today we had a great sail to Mayreau, just 7 - 8 miles south. The boat flew at over 7.4 knots. This anchorage has a lovely beach and you can see the lush green island of Union, with it's ragged peaks, to the south. Tonight we have cocktails on Centime and then go to a famous restaurant here called "Dennis' Hideaway.
From here will likely head out to the beautiful Tobago Cays before our trek to Union, Carriacou and Grenada. We are now about 50 nautical miles north of Grenada, our first year destination. It's been a wild ride!
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05/17/2012, Admiralty Bay, Port Elizabeth, Bequia
Last March when I had four women friends on board and they offered a bracelet, an anklet really, to Dennis, symbolic of his joining the "sisterhood." (See March blog post.) He wholeheartedly accepted, joined us and continues to proudly display his anklet. Once our Dutch friend, Theo (right) saw what an amazing opportunity it was, he bought his own bracelet. Now our friend Michel (center) from Quebec, not wanting to be left out, has joined as well. This new branch is nicknamed "The Hood." Here's a photo of are our newest additions. As sister Brenda noted "real men wear bracelets!"
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05/10/2012, Admiralty Bay, Port Elizabeth, Bequia
We're at a lovely anchorage in Bequia, south of Martinique, St Lucia and St. Vincent. It's a milestone for me in a couple of ways:
-- First, we're only 68 nautical miles - a day sail - north of Grenada which is our first year destination. It's been a long exciting journey from Maine. Dennis and I are truly grateful for this chance for adventure. It's so cool to be here!
-- Second, I came to Bequia 36 years ago and it was life changing for me. At age 19 I had studied Marine Biology and had a semester on a research vessel sailing from Woods Hole, Massachusetts to the Virgin Islands. Once in the islands I hitched a ride on a 38 foot sailboat, The Feather, with two semi-retired professors from New York University. At the time it was quite eye opening for me as I had grown up in a very conservative home while they were very liberal. Through our time together at sea they taught me much more about life than sailing. Our final destination then, was Bequia.
36 years later Bequia is as beautiful as before. We're in a large protected harbor with a small village at one end, enclosed by two green peninsulas. Bright, colorful homes dot the shore at the village end, then there are two long white beaches and a longer stretch of lush, green, wild land.
The people of the island have a long history of seafaring traditions that they have continued. On shore they build sturdy boats by hand with traditional tools and methods. The boats line the shore with their beautifully painted hulls.
Some of the men of Bequia also continue to hunt a small number of whales, using traditional methods, to feed their people. The ICW allows them to hunt up to four whales/year. During the winter season they head out in open boats, in strong trade winds, using hand thrown harpoons. In years where they do manage to harpoon a whale after long struggles, they haul it to an offshore island, divide the whale up and use every part. While I'm much opposed to killing such beautiful intelligent beings, I do respect the courageous men of Bequia who head out in their small boats to feed their people.
Being in Bequia also reminds me of my seafaring heritage. My Grandfather was a sailor who died at sea when my Grandmother was pregnant with my Mom. My son's name is Nico, who is the Italian Patron Saint of Sailors. Tonight, when we go to the traditional Thursday night barbeque, I will raise my glass to the brave seafarers of Bequia and the world.
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When you get to the Grenadines, please say hi to Walter - one of the boatboys. You'll know him by his gold teeth and the deepest voice you've ever heard. His panga's name is 'free spirit' if I remember correctly. He was our favorite boatboy of all, did a lot for us and is just a great character. Missing befriending him will be your loss! He might remember sv Losloper with the four Murpy's onboard (two teenage daughters), since we've seen him numerous times during the four years our boat was in the Eastern Caribbean.
Magnus
05/08/2012, You guessed it!
36 years ago I had a life-changing experience. I hopped aboard a sailboat bound for Bequia as crew with people I had never met. They were semi-retired professors from NYU. The sail down was amazing and I learned much of life from these two wonderful people.
36 years later I have returned, and it feels amazing. I'm very excited to be here.
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