We had a pleasant run down here from Punta Alercan on Friday -- very light winds so we motorsailed (and made lots of water!). We checked out two possible anchorages along the way, deciding to continue on to the known comfort of this bay. We were entertained along the way by numerous whale sightings and the closest was when one passed right in front of the boat, only about 10 feet in front of us!
We had a great hike across the desert hills to some nearby beaches. We're constantly amazed at the fascinating geology of the Baja -- I don't even know how to describe it.
Yesterday we had our first encounter with the bees that we've heard can be such a problem here in the Sea of Cortez. They come to the boats in search of fresh water and we've heard stories of boats being swarmed and their crews having to stay below until they finally leave. After we got back from our hike we went for a swim (a very short swim -- the water still is very cold here) and after we showered and hung our swimsuits out to dry a bee came by. I was afraid he might be a scout, and it wasn't long before a few more showed up. Soon there were maybe a couple hundred bees covering my swimsuit and other clothes which were hanging on the lifeline, apparently sucking the fresh water out They weren't bothering us in the cockpit, but we went down below all the same and after about an hour, when the clothes had dried they went on their way. We have nets and screens over all the openings, so we don't have to worry about bees or other bugs getting inside. After everything dried -- maybe an hour later -- they all left.
Today we awoke to what is usually a delight, but soon took on a sad note. We had several dolphin swimming around in our anchorage and as we sat and watched them we could tell that one of them was pushing something around and looking closer with the binoculars we discovered it was a small dolphin. It appeared that the baby had died, but the mother wasn't giving up and kept nosing it and lifting it trying to get it to swim. Sometimes she's just float by it with her nose touching in for a long time -- it was just heart wrenching. They're still out there as I'm writing this.
It's Memorial Day Weekend -- and the first time in 4 years we haven't spent it in Indianapolis watching the Indy 500!
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We've begun our trek south towards Santa Rosalia and our first stop is in the beautiful anchorage just south of Punta Alacran (Scorpion Point).
Once again we've found a long white sand beach and beautiful turquoise water with some great hiking and plan to stay another day at least.
On shore is a small collection of deluxe yurts on shore forming the interesting all-inclusive resort, Las Animas Wilderness Retreat, that is only accessible by boat as it is 15 miles to the nearest road. It's a beautiful spot for a remote get-a-way and the yurts look clean and comfortable.
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05/16/2010, Bahia de Los Angeles
We're currently anchored off the village in Bahia de Los Angeles -- I wanted to check out what was available in this small village since it's where we plan to spend the hot summer months of August thru October. So right now I'm in the internet cafe and amongst other things updating the blog and adding pictures to the remote posts I've made along the way and some photos to the photo gallery.
On the way up here we stopped at one of the Midriff Islands, Isla Pardita. It was an interesting stop -- the gulls had egg filled nests right along the shoreline and would create a racket and kind of dive bomb us as we would near them. The big drawback to the island were the number of bobos that surrounded the boat! Bobos are little gnat like flies that don't seem to bite, but are extremely irritating as they don't fly off you if you shake your arm -- you actually have to swat at the pesky little buggers. They aren't a problem if there's wind, and they seem to leave at sunset -- plus we have screens to keep them out of the boat and a mosquito net in the cockpit, but we didn't see any sense in sitting there with the bobos so we only stayed one night then on to BLA.
We'll stay somewhere in the bay (there are many anchorages) then start slowly harbor hopping back down to San Fransquito, then on to Santa Rosalia mid June.
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I noticed I forgot to update our position on my last remote post -- so even though we were in San Francisquito, it probably showed on the map that we were still in Santa Rosalia.... opps.
When we first arrived in San Francisquito, we went into the main anchorage inside the bay because we were delivering some transmission fluid to some friends that had come up a few days ahead of us, but had developed a transmission problem and luckily they were able to get an email to us the evening before we left Santa Rosalia to tell us what they needed. We got the stuff to them the next morning and by noon they were on their way sailing towards civilization to take care of the problem .
Since then we've been enjoying this beautiful anchorage just south of San Francisquito bay, tucked in behind Punta Terea. It's got great protection from the North and West winds and a long beautiful beach and nice hiking around the point. The water is cooler up here, but we enjoyed a nice swim off the beach yesterday -- it's a little warmer in there than right off the boat.
There's a small resort on shore -- sort of the polar opposite of the nice resort at Punta Chivato where we enjoyed our day of luxury a few weeks ago. This resort consists of some small palapas for camping and a few small beach huts with cots as the only furnishing. It's located 90 miles off the main highway and from what we hear it is a long dusty, rocky dirt road and it's quite a feat to get to this spot -- unless you fly. There's a landing strip behind the resort and aviators flying small planes are the most frequent guests at this very remote resort. There's no restaurant exactly, but they do sell cold pop, water and beer and we were told they will fix you the best fish tacos on the Baja if you ask.
We plan to stay here one more day then move back around inside the bay to check out some interesting beachcombing and hiking in there.
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The 78 mile trip up here from Santa Rosalia seemed to go by rather quickly -- it helped that we had several large pods of dolphin swing by to entertain us on our way, jumping and playing in the bow wake.
The weather was good, too. We did have to motor sail to ensure we'd reach our destination before nightfall because there aren't any other good anchorages along the way, but there was usually enough breeze to keep the sails full -- and keep the cockpit a comfortable temperature.
Then, when we were about an hour away from San Francisquito: FOG! We thought we'd seen the last of that nasty F word when we were coming down the coast last summer until 2 days ago when much to our surprise some rolled into Santa Rosalia while we were there at the dock. We then read in the guidebook that May and June are the foggy months here in the Sea of Cortez. Who knew?
But, at least it was a light fog. Yes, we've come to know fog by many degrees -- much like the Eskimos have hundreds of words for snow, we have many for fog. And we knew it was coming -- boats traveling several miles behind us were talking on the radio about being caught up in it and we could see it on the horizon. It finally slipped in around us just as we were making the last turn into the anchorage. The last half mile was totally dependent on radar and GPS waypoints, but as happened often last summer, the thickest fog lifts just as you enter a bay, so we were able to anchor with good visibility. Thank goodness!
Now we're enjoying this lovely anchorage -- we actually went back outside the bay the next morning to a beautiful spot behind Punta Teresa where there is a long sand beach that looks white from afar, but on the wet parts looks just like brown sugar. More on this anchorage in the next blog.......
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We're on the road again!
Santa Rosalia was beginning to feel like home, but it was time to move on. We enjoyed our nearly two weeks there and were getting to know the town pretty well, but we'll be back soon enough -- we'll return on June 15th and Terry will stay with Cetus when I fly home for a couple weeks to attend a wedding on the 4th of July. I've posted some more pictures of the town in the Santa Rosalia folder in our photo gallery -- the French operated a copper mine in the town in the late 1800's and there is a lot of the structures from the operation still standing and trains and mine cars on display throughout town. There are also some nice French buildings, including the French Hotel that serves a nice breakfast that we were able to enjoy the other day when we walked to that part of town to see the museum.
Today's trip is the longest we've made since last November when we left Mag Bay bound for Cabo San Lucas and the first time we've had to travel at night (we started out at 3 am) since last November as well. We wanted to ensure that we could travel the 78 miles and make it to the new anchorage before dark.
So in preparation for our big voyage today, I prepared our "traveling foods" -- things that will provide a hot meal in a few minutes warming in the oven. We had our favorite breakfast burritos this morning after sunrise and late today we'll warm up some pizza. And of course, we have my favorite: popcorn!
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When we reached the beautiful anchorage of Punta Chivato yesterday with our friends on Prairie Oyster and Risk Taker, we went to shore to explore the great shelling beach that runs for miles around the bay.
At the end of our hike, we wandered up to look at the nice hotel situated on the point of land we were anchored behind. This is the low season, so the 27 room hotel only had 1 room rented for the night, so we had lots of attention from the great staff and enjoyed a nice dinner and drinks on the terrace overlooking our anchored boats. We also got a tour of the rooms, beginning with a spacious Master Suite complete with a shower that was lined with rocks giving the effect of being in an outdoor waterfall with its open skylight.
We asked if they served breakfast and we were told since there were six of us they could do a breakfast buffet for us -- at only $12 per person! So this morning we showed up and the coffee was on the buffet set up and we feasted on fresh fruit, eggs, cereals, pastries, Mexican tortia, ham, cheese, toast, yogurt, granola -- anything any of us could possibly desire.
We also inquired about using the swimming pool, and were told that we could for only $5 per person, so we went for a long hike/walk then returned to enjoy Margaritas around the pool. Oh the luxury of soaking in the cool fresh water! We later found out that it was supposed to be $35 dollars per day for the pool -- which is much more than we would have spent -- but since we'd been quoted the lower price that's all they charged us -- no problemo.
Risk Taker and Prairie Oyster set off for San Carlos at 5 pm today -- it's an overnight trip to cross the sea and they should have a good night with a bright moon.
We will spend one more day in this anchorage to wait for good weather to head further north........
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Yesterday we traveled 8 miles south to Isla Requeson here in Bahia Conception, where we enjoyed a good hike across the small island and then a nice lunch at a shore side restaurant just a short dinghy ride away.
We left that lovely little spot this morning as we'd heard there could be a short period of strong northwinds sometime today, and that offered no protection from the north so we came up to this spot and tucked in behind a small bit of land. It wouldn't be a great place in a true norther, but this is supposed to be very short lived (a couple hours or so). The wind started coming up about 10 this morning -- just as predicted -- and by afternoon it should settle down and come from the south again.
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mike, s/v Antipodes, Mazatlan
Our trip from San Juanico to Bahia Conception last Wednesday, April 14th was the longest passage we've made since our arrival in La Paz last November: 53 miles.
We were fortunate to have good weather for it, with moderate winds to keep our sails full, though we also kept the engine running to assure a timely arrival -- didn't want to enter after dark! The sun was out and the seas were relatively smooth and the breeze kept the cockpit a very comfortable temperature, and since the engine was providing power we were able to fill our water tanks with some nice, pure water. It was a good day.
After dropping the anchor and looking around it gives the impression of being on a lake in Eastern Washington. There are some homes along the shores and there are mountains on all sides in this 20 mile long bay. Quite different than anywhere we've been up to this point, with Mexican Hwy 1 running right by the beach at this anchorage, we hear traffic noise from the Jake brakes on the trucks coming down the hill, which reminds us that we are closer to civilization than we have been on the more remote islands we so enjoyed.
But, there are other benefits to be found as we were able to go out to dinner last night at the restaurant right on shore, and they even played a movie for all of us that went in. Today the guy that runs the restaurant has offered to take several of us in to the nearby town of Mulege where we'll get a chance to buy some fresh foods and explore a little, then tonight all the boats here are planning a BBQ potluck on the beach.
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We've enjoyed a fun four days here in San Juanico spending time with our friends from Dock 3 at Marina Palmira, Jim & Dianne of Prairie Oyster and Chris and Duane of Risk Taker.
Long hikes, beach combing, pot lucks and our floating happy hours where we'd tie the dinghies together and float around while the sun sets have been lots of fun, and now we're moving the party north to Bahia Conception. It's a long, 45 mile trip, so we'll get an early start in the morning.
After Bahia Conception both Risk Taker and Prairie Oyster will be heading across the Sea to San Carlos where they will haul there boats out and go back home for the summer months, while we will head south to La Paz for our trip home for a wedding in July, then return to La Paz and head further north to Bahia Los Angeles, where we'll spend the summer months here in the Sea of Cortez.
Check out this month's Blue Water Sailing magazine for an article I wrote on Rebuilding the Box, about replacing our refrigerator before we left Gig Harbor last May.
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Yes, we're still anchored off Isla Coronados! Friends from Marina Palmira, aboard Prairie Oyster and Risk Taker joined us here two days ago on the south anchorage and yesterday, when the latest norther settled down we came back over to the west anchorage.
We all did the big hike to the top of the mountain -- a good 4 hours round trip. It's a difficult hike, but very rewarding.
We were treated to a beautiful sunrise this morning followed by having a pod of dolphin come into the anchorage and jump and swim by our boats. Today we're spending a relaxing day with plans to hit the beach and do some swimming and tomorrow we'll head a little further north to Caleta San Juanico.
No more internet service, so I can't post pictures for a while, but I do have several of Isla Coronados in our Photo Gallery to the right.
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We made another big move today -- to the other side of Isla Coronados.
We've spent the last week around this gorgeous spot, alternating between two anchorages, depending on the wind forecast. Another norther was predicted to come up today, lasting through tomorrow, so we traveled around to the south anchorage for a couple days.
Right now we're enjoying a beautiful sunset while watching some turtles, about 60 -100 feet off our stern pop their heads up every once in a while. We saw whales spouting in the distance as we traveled around today -- this area is rife with wildlife and we are constantly entertained.
It feels so remote, yet we are only a few miles away from Loreto, so we also enjoy having internet and cell phone service, which I'm taking advantage of because once we leave here we won't have them again until we start heading back south and pass this way again.
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Ahhhhh.......
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Yesterday we made the big hike up the trail to the top of the volcanic cone that rises 928 feet above sea level. What a great view of the white sand beaches and turquoise waters that surround the small island.
It was one of the best marked trails we've traveled -- but it was one of the most difficult, too. It was one thing to traverse rocky boulder fields, but the last switch back trail to the summit turned from gravel to soft dirt/sand that just slid beneath our feet making it feel like trying to run in a dream when your feet just sink into the earth. Had the top of the hill not been so close, I think I would have given up, but what a reward to make it to the top! And the hike down was much easier, as you could just sort of step and slide through the loose ground.
To the top and back took us 4 hours, including our rest break at the top to eat our apples and enjoy the 360 view. While we were hiking up, our friends on Galetea came into the anchorage and they hiked up to meet us on our way down.
Then it was back to the boat for a nice relaxing swim.......
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We left Puerto Ballandra this morning and made a quick stop off of Loreto so I could make a run to the grocery store for some fresh produce, then went a few miles further and anchored at a beautiful little spot, Isla Coronados.
I've actually been here before, when I came down to Loreto to celebrate my good friends 50th birthday with her and two other friends of hers. We took a panga out to spend a day on the beautiful white sand beach, sunning and snorkeling -- but the hightlight of that trip was the pod of dolphin that escorted the panga along the way.
Today, shortly after anchoring, we went out snorkeling and were amazed by all the fish, and even encountered a large eel and a strange looking stone fish. But the big highlight was when we were headed back in the dinghy, there were a couple whales just passing through our anchorage!
We followed them along for quite a while, along with a couple kayakers that came out to look, too. It was always kind of eerie when they'd go below for a bit, because you didn't know where they might surface next.
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This lovely protected anchorage is just 9 miles from Loreto and 16 miles from Puerto Escondido, yet we have it all to ourselves. The first day one other boat was here when we came in, and two others came in to get out of the weather later that day, but by the next morning they were all gone.
We've enjoyed great hiking, swimming and snorkeling and have found it a comfortable place to sit out a norther.
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Here's the view of the salt flats and bay on the other side of the island from our anchorage.
It was a view worth the walk!
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We went for a big hike across the island today, from our anchorage in Ballandra Bay on Isla Carmen. This island is just 9 miles off of Loreto.
It was a beautiful hike through lots of varying terrain and we ended with a great view of salt flats and an anchorage on the other side.
We're always disappointed at how little wildlife we see on these treks, so we were really surprised when this 5 - 6 foot long snake appeared at the side of the trail! We waited a minute for him to cross, before we continued on......
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We enjoyed a trip to Loreto today, taking a taxi from the marina. He dropped us off by the historic mission then returned at the end of the day, 4 pm, to pick us up and return us to Puerto Escondido.
It was a great trip -- he showed us sights along the way. And the small town was a delight. I'd been there a few years back and it was fun to see what had changed. They're doing a restoration of the historic mission district, so the roads were torn up and a lot of work going on.
We picked up some fresh foods and vegetables at the supermarcado as well as some other small stores in town, and enjoyed a nice lunch at Cafe Ole.
We browsed the touristy shops and looked in every hardware store we passed -- it was a fun day.
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We finally made it to Puerto Escondido -- the largest protected anchorage in the Sea of Cortez. It's a nearly landlocked body of water and is considered to be a good hurricane hole. There's big plans for the area, but right now it offers a boatyard with travelift, laundry, showers, a tienda and a restaurant.
They've placed over a hundred mooring buoys in the bay and charge about $15 a day to moor and use the facilities and WiFi internet that you can pick up out in the anchorage. Not a bad deal.
Right now there are only about 20 boats in the harbor on the buoys, with another 20 opting for the less expensive outer anchorage areas. In a few weeks it will be filled when the boats flock in for the annual Loreto Fest.
Puerto Escondido's other claim to fame, besides being a safe anchorage, is it's proximity to Loreto. It's 14 miles away, but it's the closest anchorage to safely leave your boat to visit the quaint, historic old town.
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