The night before last, I went to the stern of the boat to check the rib eye and veggies. As I lifted the cover I wondered how many people are barbequing tonight would have two dolphins surface, one after another, just fifteen feet from where their dinner was sizzling. I thought how cool is this? It is at times when these peculiar things happen it makes me review all the spontaneous memories that have happened on this adventure. From where I am anchored in this small bay I can see all of the Greater Miami area and it appears that I can reach out and touch the riches of South Miami Beach. I am anchored close enough to a boardwalk in front of a condo complex, that without shouting too loudly I can reply to people’s enquiries of where I am from and where I am going. I have not met anyone who has not wished me well and would not like to be doing it themselves. Their wives on the other hand......!
The whole Florida Coast is broken up into areas that for some reason were given names that stuck. The most north on the east side is First Coast; the St Augustine area where a fort was built and the settlement of Florida took place, then followed south by Space Coast for obvious reasons; the Cape Canaveral area. Then the Treasure Coast; the Stuart area where we live so named because of the Spanish galleons loaded with gold and silver that have sunk there in hurricane season. In 1715 alone there were eleven travelling together with their treasure, which all sank. Some people have become very rich by discovering them.
In the last few days, I have sailed from West Palm Beach, through Ft Lauderdale and here to Miami Beach. Although I have been here before by car it is a different experience to arrive by boat. It is different again to live in the area for a while to get the flavour of the place. This stretch is called the Gold Coast and sailing down through it is not hard to determine why it was given that name. It appears on the surface that the vast majority of the “one percenters” live here. It could very well be called the “Wealth Coast” concluded by a view of the vast estates built along the waterways alone. Not that I am resentful mind you, just some musing. The accumulation of wealth makes the sun shine brighter and stronger here. Although I have posted some pictures in the gallery there is no photo that could display in one frame the number of exceedingly large domains that one can see at any one time with the naked eye. I try not to be impressed any more but without hesitation, I have to admit I still am. I ask myself how there can be so many grand estates in such a small area of the world and where does the dollars to purchase and support them come from? It makes one wonder why there is so much inequality in the world.
To make the point, there is a marina here in front of where I am anchored, which would not accept my boat because it is too small. The areas closest to the main part of the facility are reserved for yachts larger than one hundred feet. The marina is at capacity. They have a special fuel delivery barge because there is no place around that carries enough fuel for even half of them at a time. I have posted a picture in the gallery, but again it cannot possibly show the huge numbers of boats that are tied up there. It is not that it matters so much to any of us other mortals but it still is impressive.
This is another day, and of course another riddle to solve. I’m wondering where all the material that previously was required to create a bikini went? For the last few days I have been anchored in South Miami Beach, and there is a definite shortage of material here, both in beach ware and which unfortunately (!) has been transferred to the sidewalks in the area well known as South Beach. In a part of Florida where in real estate more is more, it appears at least in this area of “The Beach”, less clothes is more. Again it makes no sense to post pictures, as the numbers would overwhelm the camera, and to do the area justice the scenery would not fit into one frame. You just have to experience it yourself.
I may be making all this sound like I am naive and have not seen it before, which is not the case at all. It is the sheer numbers of everything and the whole thing. The volume of the estates, the cultural differences, and the brightness, the above average temperatures on Groundhog Day, - causes the senses to be overwhelmed. Then to walk along Ocean Drive on South Beach, up the Lincoln Mall is an experience everyone should enjoy. Miami Beach is easy to get around with an extraordinary number of things to see and do, but none more interesting than people watching. Largely an area with a Hispanic cultural influence, the languages range from some English, through Creole to Spanish and dialects with a Cuban, Haitian, Mexican twang. The attitude and customs appear to be influenced by the blending of those same cultures and have a sexy Brazilian overtone which affects the food, music and probably most of all - the dress code. The sun and the constant humidity probably assist, but it appears even the street clothes are reduced to very little. It is not uncommon to see mothers pushing a stroller in not much more than a bikini and sandals. Be assured my mother never pushed me around dressed like that, - and as a matter of fact, neither did my grandmother.
This city is bordered by water which includes a canal into which I can travel in my dinghy to the downtown area, the beach, or to some of the world class restaurants. After securing the dinghy at a dock which the Publix grocery store provides, I can hop on my bike and tour any part of the whole city. Anyone that has ever been along Ocean Dr or walked up Lincoln Mall Drive, can confirm the variety of outdoor restaurant seating and the sheer numbers that can be seated. The diners accommodated in outdoor seating must climb well into the thousands just along the mall itself. However in the surrounding areas there are hundreds and hundreds of ordinary food outlets, alongside the fast food franchises. I have been to Miami before but it isn’t until you live here for a week, albeit on a boat, you get a feeling for what the place is like. It is a vibrant living city similar to New York except very, very hot during the day. It is very warm during the night as well, but living in the fresh air puts one to sleep early.
I have posted a picture of the reflecting pool at the Holocaust memorial in the North end, with its giant arm and hand reaching skyward with the souls of tortured humans struggling up the arm, representing the millions who perished during a low point of humankind. It was a sombre experience sitting there by myself, thinking of what humanity can inflict upon itself. I had just heard on National Public Radio that the marbles owned by Anne Frank were put on public display. Anne had given to a young friend of hers for safe keeping before she went into hiding. If you do or don’t know, she was a thirteen year old Jewish girl who wrote a diary of that time,- and is now a piece of art- before she was found in an attic after two years by the German police. She was sent to a death camp when she was fifteen years old and these seventy odd marbles are meant to remind us that she was also just a young girl who had toys. What evil can it be in us as a species with the aim of wanting to take from someone else that which we get pleasure from ourselves?
Well, I am standing on the doorstep of America looking for the Keys. Everything south of here is new for me. That is what I am looking for. It will be down through Biscayne Bay to Coconut Grove, Card Sound and Key Largo. Recently I have met all kinds of sailors doing the same thing; living out a promise they made to themselves many years ago and getting it off the “bucket list”. I’m glad to take all of you with me. Thanks for all your positive comments - posted and e-mails received.