11/24/2011, KwaZulu-Natal
After a hectic week in Durban arranging for work to be done on CH and selling and buying bits and pieces Jo arranged our first trip away for a week into KwaZulu-Natal to see and enjoy the sights, sounds, animals and people of the area.
We hired a car and made bookings for the first 3 days at The Bushlands Game Lodge just south of Hluhluwe and next to the Hluhluwe/ImFolozi Game Park. ( HluHluwe is pronounced Shloo-shlooy by the way). It was a hot and humid morning in Durban when we left so minimal clothing was packed. This turned out to be lesson number 1.
We arrived at the Bushlands Game Lodge just after a large rain and during a lighter rain and just before sunset. The place is 10km down a dirt road and we had a Toyota Corolla that was itching to be bogged or drowned and the last 10km was nervewracking to say the least. This was lesson number 2. It was also a bit chilly and doubt started to creep in about the wisdom of packing light and also only having two drive wheels.
Anyway the lodge was very nice with giraffe, zebra, impala, nyala, warthog and several other non-pronouncable species wandering around but we decided to do a 4WD tour with guide into the Hluhluwe/ImFolozi Game Park the next morning at 0530. The vehicle is completely open and the park boasts access to the "BIG FIVE" of elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard. Well at 0530 belting down the highway in an open 4WD in the rain and cold we all began to hypothermiate and by the time we got back we had seen an elephants bum, several rhino, wilderbeasties, giraffes, zebras and buffalo and more impala and nyala but I think it was too cold and wet for the cats who were probably still snug in bed somewhere. The rhino were VERY impressive and VERY BIG and it is great to see these animals in the wild. They were White Rhino but white is a mispronunciation by the poms and white refers to their wide mouth. We got some great photos so check em out.
Back to the lodge at 0930 for a defrost and breakfast and 10 gallons of hot coffee for me when we made the decision that Ian needed warm clothing so a quick drive to St. Lucia Wetlands Reserve to do some shopping, see the hippos and back to the lodge after another dirt track adventure then back to Bushlands for a fire and wine. Mmmmmmmmmm.....
The next morning we took off to Hluhluwe and visited the Ilala Craft Factory where the Zulu display and sell their craft. Great stop and we all got a souvenir and a good look at the history of the Zulu tribe. From here we visited the Duma-Zulu village and were treated to Zulu beer, traditional dancing and village life in a kraal. Gillen liked the bare breasts of the village maiden. Apparently they go bare till they get a boyfriend, then they cover em up and wear some beads on their heads. Once engaged to be married you are permitted a dress and when married a hat. The men have the rule of the roost and the first wife arranges all subsequent marriages as the amount of cattle and wives one has dictates your social and wealth status. Interesting thought and something that probably gives Germaine a headache. I do not know how they faired in the cold with minimal clothing. Must have perfected heaters by then I think. Then it was onto the Emdoneni Lodge where they care for and rehabilitate wild cats including leopards. They have a Leopard there that has been there since a kitten and Gill and Keely loved stroking and patting this lovely beasty.
Did I mention that it was still raining and COLD. The next morning was day 4 of 7 so we decided to lick our wounds and tackle the mud again and head back to Durban for a warm up and prepare for a trip to the Drakensburg Mountains and also the famous Zulu War sites where they trashed the might of the Pommy Empire. Did I mention that poms are still not exactly liked in this part of the world?
So we are back on the boat, warming up with a glass of wine and looking at maps. Be good.
| The Crew |
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Comments [2]
11/12/2011, Durban, South Africa
Well we made it to Durban which is to be our home for a month while we travel South Africa and see the place and it wildlife. We traveled down the coast in a very short weather window in company with "Whiskers" (Gerald and Dianna and little Bea) and "Wombat of Sydney" (Mike and Lynne) after leaving Richards Bay at midnight Thursday and arriving at Durban 15 hours later for a distance of 90nm.
It was great to travel with "Whiskers" who completed their second circumnavigation on arrival at Durban so it was a champagne dinner on arrival to help celebrate. They are really great friends as are Mike and Lynne and we hope to spend some time with them before we leave.
The sail was excellent and we had good weather most of the journey with whales blowing close to the boat at 0430 causing a bit of angst with whale snot left on the starboard hull. By sunrise we traveled in company with pod after pod of humpbacks all wanting to jump into the air, breach or wave their very large flippers at us. Amazing, and Keely sang to them in genuine near perfect whale.
Richards Bay was a very nice, friendly stop but unfortunately there were no berths left for cats or for anyone else for that matter. It appears that the pirates have had a benefit for South Africa as we have collectively filled South African marinas. The Indian Ocean crossing has damaged quite a few boats with everyone we meet reporting damage of some kind. We have been either very lucky or very careful as we appear to be the exception to date.
"Chaotic Harmony, Chaotic Harmony........This is PERI PERI Net......Do you copy Ian?"...............
This radio message arrives every day at 1500GMT and the guys at Peri Peri Net ; Roy at Durban and Paul at Johannesburg operate the most efficient and friendly net we have ever encountered. They provide detailed weather reports and forecasts for your location, maintain an interest in you and your movements and provide a way to contact other crews on boats underway, and have a wealth of experience and knowledge of South African waters. It is a very nice way to sail South Africa knowing that these two gentlemen are out there and waiting to pass on weather and wisdom as well as just having a friendly voice to talk to every day at sea. We have been a member of the net since Rodrigous Island and will continue to monitor it while we can. We have met Roy in Richards Bay and will meet Paul in Cape Town in the near future. Anyone in the area can be a part of the net on 8101kHz.
Actually everyone we have met in South Africa is delighted to see us. We all feel a bit privileged to be enjoying the hospitality that has been extended to us and now see South Africa as a new home of sorts. On arrival at Durban we were met by several people who helped us berth and invited to drinks at the bar. What a welcome !
Will try and get to the internet shop and post some photos soon. We will also take the opportunity to have some interiour work done on CH while we are away. Will remodel the front cabins and turn the port one into a food larder and schoolroom/private space for Gill and the starboard side into a general store and laundry with the starboard forward head being reworked into more storage space for lighter items. We will also create a large timber box for the cockpit to store a generator and dive compressor and a smaller one to stow the numerous lines we use. We are going to be busy.
"Sogno Da'Zul" (Onno) met us in Durban on arrival. He lost his steering in a large storm off Durban and was towed in by a freighter . Very lucky but we are happy he is OK and making repairs. The picture at the head of this story is of Onno being rescued.
Cannot wait to get into a hire car and go say hello to the lions, zebras, hippos and elephants
| The Crew |
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11/04/2011, Richards Bay
Africa at Last
Hi all. Well we made it to Richards Bay in South Africa after a great sail from Port Louis in Mauritius. We left on the 20th October in company with a South African catamaran named "Whiskers" with Gerald and Dianna. Truly excellent friends and we kept in touch for the entire voyage arriving within an hour of each other. We hope to see them on the water again.
The first few days were excellent sailing with virtually no seas running and 15 knots on a close reach and we made fantastic runs of over 200nm a day.
The wind died on us and became quite fluky but when it did come it came with a vengeance and we had our fair share of gales and very large seas so after rounding Madagascar we cut north into the Mozambique Channel with every intention of making a landfall at Inhambarne as gales were expected in South Africa and the best way was to go right around them.
This was a correct move and we missed the big ones. Two boats that did not follow this route had difficulties with one sinking (all saved) and one having to be rescued after they lost steering then rudders. I guess it pays to respect the the weather gods! Perhaps it was Keely's birthday Gods that helped us. The lucky duck had two birthdays!!!!! One in Mauritius and one at sea.
A window of opportunity arose just before we hit Mozambique with a strong northerly forecast so we ran for Richards Bay in a 40 knot following breeze and made her this morning.
The trip was great and we caught a very large Dorado and still have some in the freezer. It was over 4ft long and very beautiful. A shame to eat it but it tasted as good as it looked as sushi, fried and curried and steamed. We lost a large tuna that took the hook, line and reel. It was like a ballistic sub and perhaps that was what it was........
The place is full here and we are unsure whether to stay or go onto Durban but time will tell. Anyway we are safe and hope you are all well. Chaotic Harmony excelled in all conditions with no breakages and top speeds of over 18 knots at times.
Did I mention that it is damn cold....
Ian, Jo, Gill and the Keel
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10/19/2011, Port Louis, Mauritius
Hello World, This is Keely Maree........
My birthday is on the 30th October but as we will be at the bottom of the Indian Ocean for that Mum and Dad decided to have my birthday yesterday in Port Louis, Mauritius. This was great and it means I will get to eat another cake on my real birthday so I guess I will turn 10 twice and be 20 already.
My day started when I woke up really early and suddenly remembered that it was my birthday. Dad was awake so I woke up Mum and we put up some decorations before we woke Gill and then the fun started as presents started to arrive on the table. My favorite present was Gill's who gave me some games for my DS. We blew up balloons and made signs and everyone came over to say Happy Birthday in the marina. Even people I didn't know.
Dad cooked pancakes and I was allowed to play games straight away which was odd as Mum normally wont let us do anything like that before school but I coped with the relaxed regime and began to enjoy it all.
In the morning all my friends came over for a party after Dad baked me a chocolate cake ("You are the best Dad"). All of these people are sailors and really nice. There was Lynne and Mike from "Wombat of Sydney", Joseph and Marci from "Horizon" and Gerald and Dianna from "Whiskers" which is another catamaran like ours. They all bought balloons, lovely cards and presents and lots of chocolate for me so I thought this was a very special.
We lit the cake and it was covered with candles, chocolates and lollies and we ate it all up, it was so nice. The grown ups then chatted while Gill and I played games and mucked around with the new DS games.
Gotta go. be good.
| The Crew |
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10/17/2011, Ill de Maurice
The Road Trip
It had to come to it and we finally succumbed to temptation and hired a car which was delivered to our pier for the day for about the equivalent of AU$35.00. OK, in Mauritius they drive on the same side as we do but the place is littered with European tourists who seem to enjoy changing their status to traffic accident statistics. Add to this the bus drivers here who are all possessed by the greater demon (god) of racing car drivers and we have a nerve racking trip planned. An earlier trip by bus was fun as we all imagined ourselves trapped in a movie scene on a runaway bus.
I must admit I was apprehensive and just a tad scared when I stalled the little Daiwoo outside our marina berth.
With yours truly behind the wheel and Admiral Jo at the nav station we made it out of the marina and onto the motorway and decided that we needed fuel and in a hurry. Fuel stations here are in currency, not litres so it is daunting to know how much to put in so the hire car company made a profit this day with all our non-syphonable fuel.
First stop was the Botanical Gardens. The Admiral said to go straight ahead and her protégé in the navigation stakes, Celeste said it was to the left. Being of sounder mind I turned right and proceeded to the gardens and decided to allow the ladies to enjoy the scenery without the onus of looking at maps and road signs. Relief.......... We are directed to park and then asked for money to "look after your car, Monsieur" . We had no change so Celeste offered 50 cents which he refused as "your offering to my most important task would not even buy me a coke so I look after for free, OK?"
The new album shows the pictures of the gardens (and also a fire on the hill above the marina the night before). It just happened to be World Food Day here so the gardens were packed with stalls and we enjoyed some good local curried chicken while my tangled nerves adjusted to the concept that we had only just begun our driving. Next stop was only another 200m down the road at the Model Boat Centre. This is the only one in Mauritius they said, but it was the only one at the Botanical Gardens centre at Pouplemousse with every viallage and town we passed through also having the world famous "Model Boat Centre".
Anyway we headed for the coast and north around the island. There are a lot of gum trees here that were imported to combat the swampy areas and relive the inhabitants of a mozzie problem. It appears to have worked and we lit a dried leaf up and smelled Australia for a little while.
We got sick of the never ending beaches so we zoomed to the windward side and then back across the island to Port Loius where we (read brave driver/navigator) became geographically embarrassed and missed the freeway turnoff and ended up in the back roads and alleys of Little India and Chinatown. "Oh, great god of GPS road nav units, please come to Mauritius!"
Well, we arrived back, no dings in the car; only to the drivers sanity who has vowed to never again try to outdrive the Mauritian bus drivers.
Work continues on the boat to ready ourselves for the coming journey of 1500nm to Richards Bay. We will not go to Ille De Reunion as there is no room there and no anchorages so next Monday we sail.
Be good.
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10/07/2011, Ille Maurice and Captain Kodak
Life at Mauritius
We have been here now for 12 days and will be here at least another 21 as we wait for Keely's birthday celebrations on the 30th and the summer weather patterns to cement themselves for the trip to Richards Bay in South Africa. Life is good with island trips and maintenance jobs. The image is of Maats and Ulla (Hokus Pokus 2) and Marci and Josepth (Horizon) completing Captain Kodak training while at the Grande Baie Yacht Club.
The summer is rapidly approaching and things are beginning to warm up with the wind is gradually changing. As I write a small thunderstorm is building over the mountains and this is a sure sign, along with the s'ly wind that the climate is moving along and well on its way to summer.
We all went on a Top to Top expedition to Blacks River and climbed the mountain and cleaned up the trail on the way back. Even Keely climbed and everyone was very proud of her but we think our climbing days are numbered with sore legs, backs, knees and muscles that I had forgotten existed years ago.
We have a new crew member in Celesta who will travel to South Africa with us and perhaps she will even write some of the blog for us. The cruising community here grows daily with boats from all over the world. Last night Keely was dancing to an Irish Jig on the dock played very capably by an Irish boats crew on the accordian. Nations represented here to date include
Estonia, Canada, USA, Australia (us), New Zealand, England, Mauritius, France, Ireland, Belgium, Nederlands, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, South Africa, Norway, Alaska (USA) and Denmark. We have completely filled the marina and docks and have become a tourist attraction in our own right with many people coming to look at all the different boats and national flags. The poor customs and immigration authorities check every few hours that no-one else has crept into the marina and the security people check as well all day and all night. The customs boat is very flash and looks like something from an American movie and the crew complete with designer sunglasses.
We are all looking forward to seeing South Africa and have planned three inland trips over the next few months. We will travel inland for 2 weeks from Richards Bay and see the major (and less visited) national and game parks and stay at B&B places which are apparently many and varied. WE will hire a 4WD and visit 3 other countries during this trip. The second trip will be through the garden belt of South Africa and the wineries and german settlements. This trip will be from Simonstown and be about one week. The third trip will be from a port in Namibia and take us all the way inland to Victoria Falls and into Zimbabwe before heading back through the desert and diamond country back to the boat and onto St Helena Island.
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Cheers Prue
Cheers Prue
