We traveled four hours by car from Chiang Mai to a city in the mountains named Chiang Rai which was first discovered in 1262 and became part of the Mangrai dynasty. It was conquered by Burma for several hundred years before becoming its own kingdom in Siam in the 1700’s before it was annexed in the late 1800’s by Thailand. The province officially became a part of Thailand in 1933. As the car wound its way through the mountains, we made numerous stops along the way for souvenir markets, lunch, and temples in order to break up the drive. This part of Thailand is just gorgeous!

Initially, I wasn’t aware of our destination other than we were staying at a Four Seasons Tent camp in the mountains of Chiang Rai. When the car stopped, we were at the Mekong River which borders Burma, Laos and Thailand where we checked in with Immigration before boarding a longboat to the camp. My eyes were as round as saucers because this was totally unexpected. After a 10 minute boat ride up the river, we arrived at the tent camp on the edge of the river. It is also home of The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation Rescue and Adoption Program. The Four Seasons works hand in hand with the foundation by offering guests the opportunity to help rescue elephants from inhumane conditions from the streets of Thailand, circus environments and other deplorable conditions. We have the opportunity to interact, train and learn from the staff regarding the process of rehabilitation and care of the Asian elephants. There are currently 25 elephants that reside at the foundation and camp while undergoing care and rehabilitation of basic injuries.

I couldn’t contain my excitement as we registered and became settled into our “tent” camp. It is nothing like you’ve ever seen before with the base comprising of metal frames which are covered with a water resistant plastic covering for the walls, double screened windows and teak flooring. The shower is on an outdoor deck and the toilet is a separate room that you have to zip in and out of each time. Same with all the other access points except for the front door which is a solid wood accordion door that you padlock from the outside when leaving. The windows remind me of the canvas windows that we have on our boat so we felt right at home. Let me just say that I wasn’t extremely fond of tent camping but I do love this type of camping. The resort is all inclusive of food, drinks and the elephant activities. Beginning at 5:00 p.m., you can head to the Burma bar for cocktails, then a visit to the wine cellar for wine tasting before heading off to the evening dinner.

The following morning our day started by feeding young elephants bananas during our breakfast. Their only job is to walk 10 minutes from the foundation camp down to the dining room and be fed for an entire hour by the guests. Then, they walk back and just hang out on their grazing land. One young elephant began screaming when one of the resort jeeps approached. The mahout (trainer) and personal caretaker informed us that she had been hit by a car and was deathly afraid of any vehicle. After breakfast, Pat had scheduled a couple’s massage to help us unwind for the next couple of days. It was glorious! We were able to grab a quick lunch before it was time to dress for the elephant training and trekking. The resort provides standard uniforms and shoes because you will get wet and muddy. Because you are in the jungle, we have to spray ourselves from head to toe with bug spray. I’ve gotten bitten several times already and I was wearing bug spray!

Pat and I assembled for the elephant training and trekking with another young couple. Our trainer, Paul, began by giving a history of the camp and foundation and how to interact and treat the elephants with respect. When I discovered that I would learn how to climb onto the elephant bareback, my first thought was of surprise and uncertainty. I’m never one to back away from a challenge, even though it was a little unnerving. I was the first person to climb aboard this huge elephant and was thrilled that it went smoothly as I learned to sit and nestle behind their head with my legs tucked behind their ears. It’s the most comfortable spot for the elephant and rider. We spent at least 45 minutes learning commands, approaching, interacting and learning to climb aboard three different ways. Then, we were off to ride through the jungle with the Mahout nearby to reinforce our commands. Each elephant is designated one specific Mahout (trainer) who feeds them, oversees their training and provides basic nurturing for the rehabilitation. My elephants name is Tongkam and she is well into her 50’s. Her history is somewhat of a mystery but the foundation was told that she was once used for logging before she was moved to work on the streets of Surin, Thailand. The foundation was able to rescue her and give her a better life at the camp. Pat’s elephant name is 40 year old Bounma which means “merit”. At an early age, she was used for logging but was uncooperative and was often savagely beaten. Bounma bears the scars on her head and neck from this inhumane treatment. A Surin mahout purchased Bounma and took her to the city streets to “save” her which was a step above from how she had been treated. The foundation found her on the streets and now she enjoys a nice life with the other elephants at the camp.

As we became comfortable with the elephants, we were encouraged to talk to them and show them affection. When they flap their ears back and forth, it means that they are happy. Toward the end of our trek, we entered the flowing river where my elephant proceeded to immerse herself in the water and then constantly sprayed me with water. Both, Pat and I were instantly soaked from head to toe but we could not stop laughing from the experience. Once they were encouraged out of the river, we had to end our trek, unfortunately. It was time for a break in the hot tub and relaxing before wine and dinner later in the evening.
The following morning, I coaxed Pat into a cooking class with the resort chef. We were able to pick the menu of Yum Nua (Spicy beef salad), Phad Krapow Gai (Wok fried chicken with hot basil leaves, and Phad Thai prawn noodles. The recipes were simple and delicious with ingredients that I use almost every day. Now, Pat can be my soux chef while I cook the meals…or vice versa. After stuffing ourselves we were able to relax before a tour to the Golden Triangle area where Thailand, Burma and Laos intersect on the Mekong River. Our private guide named Paul took us on a tour of the Mekong River while briefing us on the history of the area. The borders are strictly regulated by immigration on all three sides of the river. We have to carry our passports and check in on the Thailand side because the officials don’t know what border we are arriving from on the river. The Laos and Burmese country have built casinos on a certain piece of land designated as a free zone so that they can shuttle foreigners back and forth to gamble and shop. The casinos are strictly regulated by these governments but they enjoy the tourism money. The last part of the tour involved a trip to the local market to brief us on the local vegetables, fish, bugs and insects and how they are prepared. It was so interesting because the locals don’t throw anything away and eat and cook the tops/roots of all vegetables used in their dishes. Before ending the tour, we were taken to the oldest Buddhist temple in the area which is undergoing restoration from the last earthquake. There is a Monk monastery located behind the temple where the locals bring offerings and the monks reside and attend school and training. We were able to witness a group of monks clearing the landscape and trash. As the tour drew to a close, it was time to shuttle back to the resort by longboat. It has been a full day and we were ready to relax before all the wine tasting and dinner hour.

Our last morning, we decided to rise with the sun and head down to the pond to help bathe the elephants before the first training. The elephants sleep in the jungle near our villas each night and will spray themselves with wet mud to keep the flies off their back. Our assigned elephants were literally caked with mud but we were able to hose them down while they were trying to grab the hose for a drink. Another couple joined us and they were doused with water expectantly which made us all laugh at their antics. We all walked away somewhat wet but Pat and I decided to head to breakfast so that we could feed the elephants one more time before leaving.

Sadly, we had to pack and prepare to leave this amazing resort. I can’t to begin to explain how unique and magical this place and experience has been. Pat and I both love nature and to view and interact with animals in their natural environment. This has been one of my favorite experiences from the many places that we’ve visited in the world. It ranks high on the list along with our trip to Africa on the natural wildlife reserves. We’ve met quite a few delightful young couples on their honeymoons who were beginning their life together just as we’re celebrating our 35 years of wonderful life memories. We did exchange emails and, who knows, our lives may intersect again someday on their world travels. The world is indeed a small place.