Behind the beaches
18 September 2008 | Palau Bangka
Chris White
This anchorage at Palau Bangka is great. There are permanent fish traps built in the sea outside this area where they put lights on at night, lower nets, take their catch. It seems people get left out on them to do the work. They are constructed of Bamboo in about 20 metres of water.
Back to the anchorage, palm tree lined beaches, shallow at about 5 metres, and interesting bays, rocky outcrops and long beaches of white sand. AND the beaches are relatively clean about as clean as most Aussie beaches, some thongs, bottles and the odd bit of flotsam but relatively clean. Yesterday we went about 20 mins by dinghy to the local village. Not much English spoken here but a very large house on the beach and the owner took us through the house block, past the monkeys, chooks etc into the main street of the village. People came out and spoke with us and one elderly man took us and very proudly showed us around a hotel they are building with accommodation, billiard room, cafe etc. Very interesting. From amongst this group we found out there were no markets in the village, we would have to go to the city! (Parang???) , no bemos or buses and a car was hard to get. One chap volunteered a motorcycle ride so I set off with instructions to buy fresh fruit and veges for both boats.
Off we went along first dirt roads , then bitumen track through villages and settlements across the island and sure enough 30 mins later we were in a significant town with a shopping street, market shops and a supermarket. Papaya, grapes, oranges, melon, lychees, apples, pears, etc were bought at the market shops and we visited the supermarket but didn't buy, loaded up the scooter and headed back for the beach village. Stopped at a roadside vendor and bought two pineapples and two cucumbers (much cheaper than the town prices) and headed off again with a very fully loaded scooter bottoming out on all the many bumps and potoholes!
We were back at the village in the hour and half. The boy who took me to town was a mechanic from Djakarta and he didn't want anything for taking me in. Of course we did provide him a gift - it was great to top up the fruit and vege supplies and the Papaya (although expensive by local standards) are so rich and good to taste and BIG.
The village here is predominantly Budhist, but the boy who took me to town was proudly Christian. Many people appear to be of Chinese extraction. The houses are neat and tidy and well kept and furnished and it appears to be a very pretty and pleasant place to livel.
The village is a fishing village and Dianne and the others had been "talking" with the locals and making friends - we will take a suitcase of clothing back over this morning. We might also be able to buy some fish when the boats come back in this morning - goodness knows we seem to have no possibility of actually catching one here - and no wonder the way we fish is just plain lazy compared to the work they put into it.
There are maybe a hundred or so fishing boats tied up outside the village all fitted with strong lamps etc that go out fishing from here at night.
A very friendly and welcoming place.
Large fires on the island showered us with ash and soot last night which was a great shame as we were so pleased that the heavy rain squalls of a few nights ago had finally washed the last of the Darwin ash and dust off the boat! Now we are back where we started!
Time wise we could have gone up to see the Orang-u-Tans in Kalimantan but we are enjoying the easy days here and have really enjoyed this anchorage and a bit of swimming, snorkelling and exploring.
Late this afternoon we will probably head off for an overnighter to the next destination.