18/04/2009, Sebana - Johor
Malaysia is situated between 1 and 7 degrees north and has traditionally been the centre of regional trade due to its strategic location. With the growing number of marinas around the country is fast becoming accessible to cruisers and no longer a place to just pass by.
The west coast of Peninsula Malaysia has always been the main route for cruisers sailing from Australia to Europe. The eastern side of the country (east coast of Peninsula Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah) offer a much quieter scene. This rally is meant to unearth some of the less traveled but spectacular destinations of the east. We hope to discover long sandy beaches and idyllic islands, unspoiled and unhurried. Some of the best diving sites in the world are located here and some still waiting to be discovered.
For the year 2009 we intend to take you from Penang to Kota Kinabalu. There is so much to look forward to. The journey is as much about self discovery as it is about visiting our friendly hosts.
Visiting Malaysia, as many of you already know, is hassle-free and convenient for long-term stopovers. The destinations that you will visit are also easily accessible by air. Travelling to any part of the world or receiving friends and family at the rally stops should not be a problem to anyone.
We would like to thank Tourism Malaysia for their advice, direction and support.
This event is a continuation of our efforts to promote marine tourism in Malaysia and we invite all sailors to join the Sail Malaysia Passage to the East and Discover Malaysia by Sea!
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06/10/2008, Singapore
I had thought I had finished this blog for the time being but departure from Charmar or return to "home" raised some new reflections. Departure was of course through Singapore where we spent (spent is the right word! Singapore is the place in the world where money is extracted from you plastically almost without you realising it by expert traders!) a couple of days shopping, or more precisely, sprinting along behind Kirsty from shop to shop, centre to centre.
Singapore is a place of course where if there is something to be bought it can be bought! It is place of conspicuous consumption, fine foods, and perpetual motion and activity.
Shoe shops have a powerful impact on a 19 year old girl!
But for some reflection:-
* One dinner in Sinapore would pay for a whole semester of university fees for a student in Alor, Indonesia, with change
* Three drinks at Raffles Long Bar would also pay for a students fees for one semester!
* Two nights accommodation could subsidise a student for a year at University in Alor or other islands,
* Singapore grows and develops almost whilst you watch it, it is tiny but heavily populated
* Singapore - a model community where the U does exist in commUnity and commUnity benefit is one of the leading goals of the government
* Strict rules, yes, but a safe and working community is the result with very low crime rates and pride in their community
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Different Field, Different Grasshoper
We have been fortunate, and privileged over the last couple of months to be taking part in Sail Indonesia, a fleet of sailing vessels, many of them sailing around the World, who have joined together with the Sail Indonesia Rally from Darwin to Singapore through Indonesia.
It is interesting to talk with these folk, global travellers, about their experiences in Australia, in Cairns and how they compare with their experiences around the World.
Moreso it is enlightening to see this group of people who could be considered to be "haves", after all they do own boats and have the means to sails long distances and support themselves although many do it on, by 'our standard' on a shoe string budget, compared to those who are really "have nots", for example the West Timorese and Indonesian peoples of places like Kupang where the Yachts enter Indonesia and commence their tour of the country.
The 'haves' of the Western World certainly have the material possessions and the desire to accumulate material possession often for the sake of them. The West Timorese people often leading a traditional life, certainly do not have material possessions but do have happiness with their lot, a true society of mutual support and many of the better characteristics of societies of people that we have lost in the West.
Interestingly we had no concerns moving about in Kupang or Kalabati any time of the day or night, but I couldn't say that about our home town of Cairns after midnight on just about any night of the week or even during daylight when we see senseless bashings and muggings that seem now to be almost a daily occurrence.
And it seems ironic that those with the least share the most, and those in the world that are the "haves" as opposed to the 'have nots" are least willing to share not only the material goods that they have but also the spiritual warmness and common kindness and acceptance of mankind. Their parting words were often, "thank you for coming to see us and to share our lives, you are welcome back at any time and are now part of our family, we apologise if we have not done as much as possible for you or if you are disappointed with anything you have had or seen today, but we are only people and not perfect". I would add "but more perfect than many in the western world!"
On each occasion they wanted to know what they could do FOR US, not what they could take from us. Maybe we could start thinking about that in the promotion of our tourism businesses that need to be regenerated.
On our first night in Kupang the Provincial Governor hosted a dinner, entertainment and welcome ceremony for the entire crews of the yachts and each person was presented a gift to commemorate the occasion. The Ministry of Tourism provided a wonderful 15 hour tour the next day right into the most remote highlands of West Timor where we had the opportunity to share life with these villagers. They were open, sharing and provided each of us with a gift again. A truly humbling and levelling experience. Only days later we experienced the same in Kalabati.
In the West we judge people by what they have, in these areas they are judged for who they are. These people are happy and contented with their life, largely without material possessions and it does make one wonder - who is really in the best situation with leading a real and satisfying life - the haves or the have nots?
I guess the answer lies in the symptoms of what is becoming an increasingly dysfunctional community of substance abuse with alcohol, extreme substance abuse with drugs, depression, suicide, senseless bashing and muggings and one can only be left to wonder where it is leading to?
Just maybe the grasshopper in the barren field is more appreciative of the finer things in life than the one who has everything in lush fields. It is worth remembering also that every field has lean seasons, droughts and floods and they move from field to field. We often feel entitled to the lifestyle we have, we could however have been born into much different circumstances and should remember that when judging our neighbours who are not as materially well off.
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Our reflections and focal key memories of 2,000 miles of Indonesia can be summarised as:-
People - welcoming, cultural, industrious, friendly, proud, helpful
Boats - thousands and thousands of traditional boats fishing every day, everywhere
Fantastic Anchorages - myriads of anchorages that are beautiful throughout the archipelago
Islands and protected waterways - the Whitsundays only 1000 times bigger and better and with every one of thousands of islands having distinct communities
Sailing - just fantastic along rugged coastlines in deep water, protected waterways, islands and straits, bays and harbours, so interesting and so different
Dragons, Bima Schooners, Praus, Fish traps and things that go bang in the night!
People that care for their housing, albeit quite humble in many cases, it is clean, tidy and cared for
People who work hard to make the best of limited opportunities
Beaches, beautiful islands, coral reefs, snorkelling, diving beautiful clear water, magnificent waterways.
Bureaucracy - heh - but no worse certainly than what we have allowed to happen in Australia in the last decade!
Rubbish - there seems no recognition of rubbish and pollution in public area, a house can be maintained immaculately with rubbish everywhere across the road, creeks, drains, waterways, the ocean - rubbish is just thrown down. This is a a global problem now and will exacerbate in years to come destroying our oceans. Western and wealthy nations MUST start helping Indonesia NOW to address this problem. A clean up Indonesia campaign is a MUST. Beautiful tourist areas are marred by unimaginable piles of rubbish - hundreds of miles of beautiful clear ocean waters are full of plastics, bottles, bags, foil and wrappers - mostly supplied by Western Countries and now destroying OUR oceans - it will come back to haunt us. Something needs to be done NOW! Remote and beautiful island beaches are covered with Rubbish, Plastics, Bottles and Bags - Reefs and beautiful waterways the same, it washes out the drains and waterways into the Oceans - by the tons - every day.
The Rally - do it, it is a wonderful opportunity to see and do things and have access to areas not otherwise possible. Be challenged by it and take advantage of these opportunities - you will be one of a priveleged few who have this opportunity while it lasts.
Keep an open mind, enjoy the parts that you wish to and enjoy sailing to other underexplored areas as the whim takes you. Take patience, tolerance and understanding in abundant supplies and you will gain from it!
Above all YOU will the visitor in their country.
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An easy morning in Nongsa Point Marina and we cleared our papers with considerable ease, coffeed, talked and considered the gallop across the Shipping Channels to Singapore and then to Malaysia.
We finally set off at about 1220 for the 15 mile run, having seen the extent of traffic in this area which is quite amazing with a Traffic Separation Scheme and a ship every twelve minutes, supertankers that look about 4 times as long as a "normal" ship and vessels of 1000 feet and 20 metres draft plying the water at from 2 to 15 knots in both directions and then local high speed ferries etc also joining in.
Anyway we cross the shipping channel with a couple of deviations and head for the Changi end of Singapore past the wonderful looking Malaysian Naval Training Centre on our starboard and then for the four mile trek up what seems to be a mangrove lined river to nowhere until we finally arrive at the Sabana Cove Marina and Resort. This is a great facility seemingly in the middle of nowhere but a well protected marina and we clear customs etc with a very efficient process (Australia could learn something here!) and dock.
Time for a wash down, covers up, it is VERY tropical here at present. There are ferries 45 minutes to Singapore. Monkeys in the trees and full on resort with all facilities.
Looks good!
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After a rolly night at the last anchorage we were up and a way at 0500 it was one of those anchorages where the best thing you can say about them is leaving it. Mind you we have good anchorages throughout Indonesia - none that you could really complain about particularly because some of them are "open" anchorages.
Making a run for the last 56 miles to Nongsa Point we first sailed through a squall and winds from the north - of course the direction we are going - but most of the squall passed in front and to the East so we only had a little rain. The we sailed, motored, motor sailed, sail/motored, motored with the sail up, motored with the sail down, sail out/sail in and so on until we arrived at Nongsa Point Marina.
Now this is the first time we have not had to put an anchor down in over 65 days! The Marina is great, newly renovated and the surrounding building all in the state of renovation.
We met up with several boats we had encountered on the way, "Dutch Touch" from USA and we all enjoyed their hospitality for sundowners, Sandpiper came in and several boats from and not from the rally that we had spoken to.
Went up the hill for dinner which was great and our last taste of Indonesia as in the morning we clear from Nongsa Point for Singapore Channel and Malaysia.
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21/09/2008, Palau Mesanak
Last night 'Sandpiper' and 'Kassoumay' came over for drinks and Equator Crossing celebrations which we all enjoyed in an excellent anchorage and calm well protected bay.
We had a good sleep in and then met some people from the local village who brought us out a bag of a fruit - not sure what it is but a bit like an apple and something else. We gave them some clothes and crocs and they responded with fresh squid. The people love getting their photographs taken so they requested photograph, which we took and then printed out for them. They wanted to give us fish as well. We had fish given to us yesterday, by our standards they are very small and a lot of work to get a little bit of flesh so we thanked them and told them we had plenty of fish. Most of the fishing boats seem to catch lots and lots of these small fish.
It was after 1100 when we finally weighed the anchor and set off for our next destination which was only about 25 mile but we ended up motoring and motor sailing most of the way. Used the opportunity to make water and to cook bread and cool the fridges. With a current in our direction we made good time and were in by 1530 with half an hour still to go to cook the bread!
There were many fish traps close to the islands in this area, these seem to be permanent structures on the edges of the reef which attract the fish and some have little accommodation units on them. There were also nets again and we managed to run into a massive log or bamboo that must have been 40 foot long and more than a foot across. No damage fortunately only a small scratch to the antifouling paint.
All around us there has been a tropical squall with lightning and thunder but we have had only a few spots of rain. We would actually like a really good tropical downpour to wash things down as a few nights ago we got covered with ash from fires on the island we were at. The last squall we had had only just removed the dust and ash from Darwin where nightly there was a "black snow" fall from surrounding fires.
Tonight the anchorage is not as good but we will probably head off at about 0400 in the morning to try to get to Nongsa Marina in the one day. This is where we check out of Indonesia.
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20/09/2008, Palau Kentar
On leaving Bangka we had the wind behind us and an overnight great sail without much traffic and a just a steady rolling swell on a flat sea. Glorious sailing conditions throughout the night with just a headsail up and a reasonable but oh so comfortable speed. Continuing on the same the next morning. We don't have to rush so are enjoying the comfortable sailing conditions.
We sailed on in company with Kassoumay and stopped for lunch at Pulau Bujang. Into the hammock, had a couple of hours sleep and then we set off around the reefs and rocks towards Pulau Kentar. On route near Pulau Kongka Besar we approached 00 degrees, 00.000 minutes and crossed the equator with the customary celebration and recognition of King Neptune en route and finally into our destination at Pulau Kentar at about 3.15pm. On the way cleaned and cooked the fish the local fishermen had given to us in Bangka, the fish are small and fiddly but so much work has gone into them catching and cleaning etc we have to do them justice and make sure we eat them! They were so generous in giving them to us.
Pulau Kentar proves to be a great anchorage and we find a boat "Sandpiper" that we had sailed into Kupang with at the start of the rally and two boats from Sweden we don't know. So of course that night we have Kassoumay and Sandpiper both from the UK but with Kassoumay having a french family on board over for a celebration to King Neptune to celebrate the Equator Crossing and to make plans for the next few days.
We enjoy the evening and debate the merits of world important issues such as is it better to rally or go alone, is the rally worth the cost, the follies of the admin issues faced by the rally boats and the impounding in Kupang.
Generally I think the view was that if you are a rally person, or if you are not a rally person, the rally makes sense to visit Indonesia - BUT, heh, be prepared to roll with it and enjoy the benefits for as much as you want to and go it alone for as much as you want to - quite different experiences but both with merits.
This anchorage is very protected. There is a mass of fishing boats way over out behind us and numerous permanent fish traps in the area.
The next few days, who knows, we are all going in the same direction, maybe 25 miles per day maybe 80 - we will decide tomorrow but we are now close to Nongso Point Marina where we clear out of Indonesia. Kirsty has to be out by the 24th. Then to Sebana Cove and we have just received all the great information on this from Caroline THANKS, it sounds good.
Good night King Neptune! We now dwell in the northern hemisphere!
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19/09/2008, Palau Bangka
We went by dinghy (dinghied does not compute to the spell checker) to the village this morning to deliver a case of clothes kindly donated by Anglicare to the lady and group that Dianne met yesterday. We included some Rid, Bushman and Insect repellent as one of their children had been suffering from considerable sandfly/bug bites. Of course they were delighted and returned the favour with freshly cut green coconuts which are great to drink and the soft immature flesh delightful to eat - you really need to go troppo for a while to appreciate the value of the green coconut. We went shopping at a couple of the 'shoplets' for eggs and a few extras and the village group wanted to see Charmar so they followed us back across the bay and came on board. It was great fun and we took and printed photos for them, which they absolutely enjoy, dined on chocolate bars and communicated well without language! Great fun.
On the way back to Charmar we had passed a fishing boat anchored only a short distance behind us and they called us over and presented us with a coconut just turning yellow, so we took them back a bottle of softdrink. After the first visitors left they signalled they would like to come across so they have been on board for about three hours. We have been playing with lures and fishing gear and they have taken away some spoons and lures and stainless wire and gear. The youngest was 15 and there were three of them. They wouldn't eat lunch but we are not sure whether they were Muslim and Ramaden they do not eat for this season as most people here are Budhist or Christian. They really enjoyed getting off their rolly boat onto a stable platform for a while. They have a compass on their boat but the elder one and I guess the skipper was fascinated by the GPS Plotter and depthsounder! Winches and things on board generally they all wanted to check out.
There are many Chinese people in this village and one man who was visiting his brother here for holiday said to us it called China Town where we were. Of course relations between the Chinese and Indonesian have not always been cordial but here everyone seems to be living in harmony, and why not it is a delightful area with sandy beaches, coral reefs, surf beaches, comfortable accommodation, although the fishing village people were in stilt houses with basic huts and a common well. They were the nicest and most welcoming people.
But it is time for us to press on as Kirsty only has less than a week on her visa! So in an hour or so we will untie the boys on the prau behind us, they are still attached but are back on their boat, pull up a headsail and drift off north in the following breeze to see how far we can get overnight.
Talk to you then!
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18/09/2008, Palau Bangka
This anchorage at Palau Bangka is great. There are permanent fish traps built in the sea outside this area where they put lights on at night, lower nets, take their catch. It seems people get left out on them to do the work. They are constructed of Bamboo in about 20 metres of water.
Back to the anchorage, palm tree lined beaches, shallow at about 5 metres, and interesting bays, rocky outcrops and long beaches of white sand. AND the beaches are relatively clean about as clean as most Aussie beaches, some thongs, bottles and the odd bit of flotsam but relatively clean. Yesterday we went about 20 mins by dinghy to the local village. Not much English spoken here but a very large house on the beach and the owner took us through the house block, past the monkeys, chooks etc into the main street of the village. People came out and spoke with us and one elderly man took us and very proudly showed us around a hotel they are building with accommodation, billiard room, cafe etc. Very interesting. From amongst this group we found out there were no markets in the village, we would have to go to the city! (Parang???) , no bemos or buses and a car was hard to get. One chap volunteered a motorcycle ride so I set off with instructions to buy fresh fruit and veges for both boats.
Off we went along first dirt roads , then bitumen track through villages and settlements across the island and sure enough 30 mins later we were in a significant town with a shopping street, market shops and a supermarket. Papaya, grapes, oranges, melon, lychees, apples, pears, etc were bought at the market shops and we visited the supermarket but didn't buy, loaded up the scooter and headed back for the beach village. Stopped at a roadside vendor and bought two pineapples and two cucumbers (much cheaper than the town prices) and headed off again with a very fully loaded scooter bottoming out on all the many bumps and potoholes!
We were back at the village in the hour and half. The boy who took me to town was a mechanic from Djakarta and he didn't want anything for taking me in. Of course we did provide him a gift - it was great to top up the fruit and vege supplies and the Papaya (although expensive by local standards) are so rich and good to taste and BIG.
The village here is predominantly Budhist, but the boy who took me to town was proudly Christian. Many people appear to be of Chinese extraction. The houses are neat and tidy and well kept and furnished and it appears to be a very pretty and pleasant place to livel.
The village is a fishing village and Dianne and the others had been "talking" with the locals and making friends - we will take a suitcase of clothing back over this morning. We might also be able to buy some fish when the boats come back in this morning - goodness knows we seem to have no possibility of actually catching one here - and no wonder the way we fish is just plain lazy compared to the work they put into it.
There are maybe a hundred or so fishing boats tied up outside the village all fitted with strong lamps etc that go out fishing from here at night.
A very friendly and welcoming place.
Large fires on the island showered us with ash and soot last night which was a great shame as we were so pleased that the heavy rain squalls of a few nights ago had finally washed the last of the Darwin ash and dust off the boat! Now we are back where we started!
Time wise we could have gone up to see the Orang-u-Tans in Kalimantan but we are enjoying the easy days here and have really enjoyed this anchorage and a bit of swimming, snorkelling and exploring.
Late this afternoon we will probably head off for an overnighter to the next destination.
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15/09/2008, Java Sea
At 1915 last night a red ball, looking like a giant hot air balloon, grew from the horizon almost directly behind us, the east. As it grew and then rose above the horizon the full moon turned orange and then yellow and stayed with us for the night until near 0700 this morning when a red sun raised itself lazily from the same position; almost as the moon and long and guiding reflection on the water directly in our path westerly dipped away slowly.
At 0900 yesterday a light breeze started to fan the flat sea that was threatening a hot, tropical and still day. In consultation with Kassoumay on radio we decided to take advantage of the light breeze and flat seas and make our next move, one of 165 nautical miles, an overnighter at least and maybe more with the very light conditions.
We both weighed anchor and set sail, motor sailing the north westerly route until a little after what would normally be lunch time when we set the MPS and Main and managed a very pleasant sail with modest breezed on a flat and calm sea for the afternoon, The two boats crossed each other from time to time as we made our way along the same waypoints. Very pleasant sailing, or moreso getting about, reading a book, doing some tasks, and the boats saililng themselves in the idyllic conditions. As the day turned to night it made little difference in the bright moonlit evening with the flat seas visibility was excellent.
Nights ago we were in pitch black conditions, in choppy seas with ships, local boats, unlit boats, fish traps, fads, fishing boats, islands, rocks and reefs and so on. Ironically sailing in Indonesia is full of contradictions and contrasts.
Tonight we are on the flatest of seas, from horizon to horizon - north, south, east or west there is nothing to be seen. The flat but dimpled water with the light breeze just ruffling the surface extends as far as the eye can see for all points of the compass without interruption, without anything else being there. This is one massive pond from horizon to horizon in any direction.
Seemingly in the centre of this universe two catamarans are sitting on the water criss crossing occasionally and it almost seems like they are stationery and the ocean is moving under them. It appears a little surreal in these conditions.
After sailing in waters kilometres deep just metres from shore, along the side of rugged and steep coastlines and islands, passing by the volcanoes and the aftermath of the land movements that created this archipelago we are now sailing it seems on a vast pond that is constantly 34 metres deep, not just for a short distance but for hundreds of miles, constantly 34 metres deep and no sign of any land or rocks or life. Yes eventually we cross a shipping lane and several ships are moving south and north across or behind our path, and eventually we see a fishing boat or two, but in reality we are pretty much out here by ourselves - somewhat unique with the boating traffic in Indonesia and the myriad fishing vessels that ply the waters miles and miles from any location or village or settlement.
We motor, we sail, we put the MPS up, we take it down and we motor sail in our effort to keep up an average of 6 knots, Sometimes we are doing 8 knots sometimes down to 3 calling us to start one or the other of the motors so we get in before dark today. And the day delivers more of the same. The main and the MPS until 0930 now we have a motor running as well. Kassoumay has slipped a little way away from us but we touch base every six hours and can still pick them up on Radar.
It is hot and tropical as we are getting close to the equator, in a day or two we should cross the equator all going well.
In the balmy conditions we have all read a number of books, and of course the chores of keeping a vessel going, eating etc is easy as at times it seems the vessels are hardly moving and yet we are maintaining our averages.
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15/09/2008, Palau Nangka
Yesterday was a day of relaxation and rest, we had a snorkel across some great reef areas identifying some unusual occupants, baked bread, and watched a dvd loaned to us by Kassoumay, Master and Commander which seemed very appropriate watching the sailing clippers with the ocean horizon as a backdrop to the left and right of the screen, gave it real identity.
This morning we were to head off but are "glassed out" with the water as flat as a mirror and at this point no breeze at all. We will stay unless it pipes in which it may do as it is still early.
Our location is Palua Nangka which is an unoccupied island, with a great reef surrounding it, and a small offlying cay covered in coconuts, the classic tropical island scene. The islands are tropical and green, with Nangka having steep and rainforest covered sides - almost jungle, and the cay just a cover of coconuts. The interminable fishing boats come in at night and go in the morning and the occasional boat, totally covered in cut trees or greenery comes in, stops for a short break, and heads off again. Who knows where they come from and where they are going to??
One of the lasting images we will have of Indonesia is the boats, everywhere there is boat traffic and small boats plying their trade.
Coming on the last leg Dianne was at the helm in the pitch black of night when she noticed a small light, she called me up only to identify that there was a small boat only about 50 metres in front of us, it steamed around in a circle as we also changed course to avoid it and as soon as we went pas they turned off their light to completely disappear into the darkness once again.
Well a stunning morning here, we have just been on the rally radio net and they are in 25 knots of breeze and we are in flat calm. Some boats up at Kalimantan seeing the Orang u Tangs which would have been a good trip also, but we will reserve that one for a later date.
Our next leg is 165 nautical miles so an overnighter - and we would like a fresh but not strong breeze to knock this over quickly.
Today we will leave if the breeze freshens in, if not more snorkelling and exploring and maybe a dive.
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14/09/2008, Palau Nangka
From yesterday's blog you would know that we were in ideal sailing conditions through the previous night, comfortable, speeds of 11, 10, 9 knots consistently, running at about twice the speed we had planned for the passage, beautiful moonlit night, flat seas - oh how idyllic it is to sail in these conditions!!
But the Ocean is a hard taskmaster and as we near the equator and the opportunity to meet King Neptune himself he takes the opportunity to remind us it is not always like this! Coming into yesterday morning the wind continues to whip up, the seas get lumpy, and wind gets "harder" - not that the wind strength is a problem but it is 'hard wind' - rain squalls and lightning appear in the distance to the east and to the west.. As we contact the vessel travelling with us, and they started at midnight so are a fair distance behind as we expected them to catch us we find that they have been through two squalls with high winds and rough conditions.
We see squalls up ahead so we put a reef in the main, we get the squalls, it blows a bit but not excessively only about 25's, but it comes from the front and the conditions deteriorate so we furl the genoa and set the staysail - a smaller headsail. I get the lens knocked out of my prescription sunglasses in the process, of course it disappears quickly! We sail on, our companions are no longer catching us. They get rain, we get the deteriorating conditions.
Yesterday was grey and miserable and not a comfortable sail.
As we go into nightfall we plan and replan our destinations and waypoints to get to an anchorage and tucked in safely for the next morning - Sunday morning.
Early evening although it is very dark out because of the cloud we can see a black, very black, very very black area on the horizon that reflects black on the water in the light of lightning flashes. We see it on the radar, a large rain squall - it is a rain or rain and wind squall? We keep our reduced sail but try to sail around the west of it as it bares down on us, and we were sailling towards the centre of it. It catches us of course and rains, and rains and rains - torrential. The decks needed a flush with fresh water, this is the first good fresh water wash since Darwin marina! We sail up and down in it almost hove to at times, fortunately the wind in it is only about 10 knots. It is dark, very very dark, about as dark as being inside a cow's belly! We detect a track out and sail, motor out the back of the squall - we let our companions know as it is heading directly in their direction about 20 miles down the track, they are wresting with the conditions and a young family and some seasickness on board.
We agree our next destination to be our original planned destination but we are almost a day in front of our planned arrival in daylight hours, by sailing very slowly (which is sometimes easy) we will get to it by daylight but not too much earlier. Our companions will travel just a bit faster and catch us. We leave all reefs in and just the small headsail, the wind has dropped - since we entered the squall - and the seas are now flat and comfortable so it is quite comfortable just dribbling along with a light breeze and calm seas. We make some water for a couple of hours running one engine to keep on track in the now fluky breeze.
Towards sunrise we are proceeding towards our anchorage, we would not attempt to go into without daylight and we are just a little concerned that there may not be enough light. We see our companions right back in the distance, so now we have visual contact. The anchorage is inside an extensive reef on a small island in about 25 metres so is quite a deep anchorage. The anchorage bay does not show on the charts electronic or otherwise! With the chart offsets here, even with known waypoints, we would not go in without the greatest navigation aid known to man - a good eye and sound visibility!
Cést bon! we see a boat leaving, a yacht, it is good. We call them up and they have anchored there overnight so they give us some tips on entry and where to anchor and we bid each other well. We try to raise our companions on the radio as they speak fluent french (they are from France after all!) and would have been able to communicate easier but we cannot raise them. This is a bonus that we have further waypoints!
We see a local boat go in fishing, another bonus, we go in from the north and enter a channel through the coral reefs which are quite visible now. We motor on seeking a reasonable anchoring spot and end up almost back out the other end of the channel almost where the French boat indicated they were anchored.
Our companions come in the other end of the channel, at our now expert advice, we were in there and could see the reefs clearly now!!!
They anchored nearby and it was clean up time, pancake time and for a well needed sleep for a few hours!!! Into the hammock I go.
In summary we did this passage in eight hours less than predicted as a conservative estimate, we had winds of up to 25 knots which is is not bad but tough sea conditions, we had mostly favourable currents, we had boat speeds of up to 11.3 knots which is good, we had calms - our average for the passage came to 5.63 knots - a slow passage but in some ways a quick passage! Yes your right that is confusing - just like the seas were confused. We had some great rain squalls. We had fantastic lightning shows, (we had no lightning strikes - a statistic we like to keep!).
I think maybe we will have a day or two here before we press on, the next leg is a fairly long one also and it would be good if the weather stabilised a little first.
As for the area, just beautiful, a couple of local fishing boats plying the waters - heh but everywhere there is salt water in Indonesia there is a few or a few thousand boats fishing it it.
There is small island looks like a cay covered in coconuts a short distance across - about three times as big as Green Island, there is a small rocky islet adjacent to our anchorage surrounded by reef, there is plenty of reef - the island is high sided but not mountainous, lovely sandy beaches, can't see a village but there could be one - there usually is. Imagine the Whitsundays a thousand times bigger with every island and outcrop having villages and settlements!
The ocean is a hard taskmaster at times and for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction - just when you might start thinking you have found the perfect sailing area there is a reminder that it can give you a serve as well!
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12/09/2008, Java Sea
We took a walk across Kalimanjawa , through coconut groves and along the southern beaches this morning and left at 1700 for the next leg a trip of about 220 mile. We had three channels we could go through southern, via Selat Bangka next to Java Island, Central - the obstacle course, or Northern through open water. We elected the northern to get the better sailing angle and avoid the Java Coast where the last couple of nights we had seen fantastic lightning shows and some cloud action and squalls. Java is very steep and no doubt a generator of this type of activity at this time of year.
We set off into a forecast of 15 knots. The Java Sea so far has been very kindly with excellent sailing conditions. It is very shallow compared to the areas we have been travelling in where the depth could be 200 metres within a stone throw from shore and thousands of metres (kilometres) just off shore. The Java Sea is about 60 metres depth (so we are close to land - 60 metres straight down but that is the only land we are near!) We have had 12 - 17 knot breezes and generally favourable currents that give us 7 to 8.5 knots of boatspeed in great conditions and it is a beautiful moonlight night here until about 3.30. There is quite a bit of commercial traffic including some ships and tugs towing dumb barges.
Interesting laying back in the cockpit with the stars above and reflecting that we started from Darwin with about 130 boats, along the track we were travelling with a pack of ten to a dozen or less and now for the final third of the trip we are in company (and great company they are) in Kassoumay also a catamaran. All three experiences have been good - the full pack and all the formal occasions, welcomes, trips, functions etc and the exploratory sailing alone where we are the only boats in the area and it is obviously quite a novelty for the locals to have sail boats near and around their islands!
Some of the water across from Darwin and the shoals is quite shallow, the waters around Eastern Indonesia are very deep and whilst the nearby Islands - mainly Java - are very steep the water here is relatively shallow. We will sail through the night, tomorrow and tomorrow night before reaching a suitable destination to anchor but it is great conditions and good passagemaking sailing at present.
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11/09/2008, Pulau Karrimujawa
From the last entry yes we did arrive at Palua Bawean and a wonderful anchorage it was. We arrived and went for a walk up to the village. It was quite a way and quite steep at places along a single lane road but what a quaint village. It was interesting that many of the houses were having work done to them, they were of a very high standard and many were fully tiled all around and tiled facades, stainless steel gates, immaculate and tidy. The usual number of small shops but of a very high standard. What a beautiful community. Then there was the rice paddies and farming land on very fertile ground, many kites were flying high in the air some very big ones, the people were well dressed and so friendly and nice. One chap stopped and told us about the Island, he and others "work offshore" this generally means the oil and gas rigs. He also had a house on another island but loves Bawean and always comes here! The population is about 40,000 and they are building an international airport at present for the future. The diving is great and the island a great place. And it is - is lush, steep, good farming. all the boats (and there are many many) are freshly and brightly painted. The fishing boats were stopping to give us fish. A fantastic anchorage and a great place.
Yes we did get Paul the autopilot back from leave of absence. On the more mundane side I pulled out the Autopilot controller and sure enough there was a fuse blown inside it. I replaced it with a spare I had and put it all back together and wired it back in! It worked ............for a minute. The problem is that if the fuse blows it requires all the wiring to be disconnected and the controller unit to be removed to get to the internal fuse. So this time I jockeyed up a wire to the fuse connections and put a blade fuse outside the unit that I can get to easily. Paul the autopilot has been working diligently since.
Now we are sailing in company with a family on Kassoumay, a Lagoon 47 cat, and delightful company they are. They are faster than us so we leave earlier and then end up chasing them to the next anchorage.
We enjoyed the stop over at Bawean, and morning tea on Dutch Touch, but left at about 2.00pm in the afternoon for Karrimanjuwa about 140 miles west. These island are located away from anything else in the middle of the Java Sea. There are few groups of relatively small islands. We set the MPS and Kassoumay a main and jib and for the whole trip we were only about 6 mile from each other until dawn. The Java Sea has been a pleasure to sail so far. We had a wind square behind at 12 - 15 knots during the mind it blew up to some gusts of 20, to 25 too much for the MPS but we were making good time at 8 - 9 knots in good conditions. Just before dawn at about 5.30 we picked up a rain squall on the radar about 12 miles in front on our course. We thought it prudent to take down the MPS which we did in the dark and put up the Genoa and continued on. The squall blew away but the wind had veered so we needed the Genoa anyway and just sailed under it with about 20 mile to go. The wind then started to die out and our speed dropped from 8++s to 4. Kassoumay in front reported the anchorage unsuitable so we both went another 12 miles to a further island and are anchored in a nice little bay.
Two fishing boats with three boys (about 20 y o) on and gave us some fish, that didn't want money just a gift, so they came on board, had a coke and chocolate and we gave them some small gifts. They stopped for about an hour communicating (they didn't speak English and we didn't speak Bahasi) but with the Lonely Planet guide we had some fun and then they left and went back to their village on their two traditional boats. It was great.
Nice coral here in the Bay and there is a lot of reef around these islands which are picture postcard style.
If we think we have the only reef in Australia we are going to be for a shock, there are fantastic reefs and corals here for snorkelling and diving, very cheap holidays, and a number of international airports currently under construction. It is going to be a holiday destination of the future there is no doubt.
Tomorrow we will head off on a long leg of about 280 miles probably over two nights.
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Gili Air and its related two other islands were just half hour drift from Lombok, we actually came through the narrow reef bounded channel here on the way to Teluk Nara two days ago.
We came across this morning. A bit of Green Island, a bit of Low Isles - a reef and snorkelling and diving, and a small village of locals - Heh what a place to live!
It is a place for relaxation - has number of accommodation places (just like Fiji in style) on the beach maybe $15-$50 a night. Many little great local eating places.
Deliver clothes and pencils etc to local school.
Relax, relax, relax for tomorrow we head for Lovina on Bali Island and then start a very solid slog of 1,000 nautical miles to Singapore as Kirsty's visa only last till about 21st!
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Arriving in Lombok of course we hit the beach and decided to go for a walk. Many cars pulled up to see where we were going and we eventually succumbed and took one to Sengigi Beach which we though was 5k but turned out to be about half hour drive! Did the internet, added the PHOTOS now there under Photo Gallery -Indonesia. We went to a Sengigi restaurant for dinner which was great but the whole tourist strip was very quiet I think we may have been the only customers and at ab out $18 for the three of us including a beer it must be hard going. Travelling there were numerous resorts and properties for sale and some with the "bancrupqt" sign as well - since the Bali bombings this area has suffered terribly - it has been a tragedy for the Australians involved and also the local population!
Caught a taxi back, were a bit concerned about how much it might cost but it was all of $6 and eventually found the path back to the beach where our dinghy was!
We had met a Texas couple moored nearby on the beach on our arrival and they were negotiating with Mohamed who runs the moorings etc (He is 25, runs the moorings, arranges tours, arranges for Solar and water, and in his spare time sells fine pearls from the nearby pearl farm and goes to the local Lombok Uni! - has a bright future and knows quite a few cruising Aussies that call into Teruk Nara a great anchorage). Anyway they were doing a day tour the next day which we joined them on in a "private car" and Mohammed guided us and took a driver. We did cover a lot of Lombok which is lush and green on the northside, they grow rice and get two crops a year, in the south it is much drier and they get only one crop and many failures. Each family has a cow, nor for milk but to work the land and pull the ploughs etc. They rotate paddi's with two years rice, then peanuts and corn or other crops.
We went through a large village market and then started climbing the steep hills of Lombok *highest about 3,000m* through great rainforest where the trees are preserved. We are told every Indonesian is to plant one tree. Many mahogany and teak! As we approach Monkey forest monkey's provide a guard of honour lining the road on both sides. We stop and feed them peanuts - it IS true monkeys love peanuts - and they are gentle and kindly monkeys unlike in some areas where they snatch and steal! A bit like people I guess!!
We go on to a pottery village where the whole village is involved in making some great pottery, and then onto a traditional village where all the women do weaving in the traditional style. It is 60% of their village economy from weaving. The girls cannot get married until they learn to weave - weaving takes a great deal of patience so maybe good training for marriage. When they can weave they get married at about 17 - 19 - the men are a few to ten years older frequently. It may take three weeks to six weeks to weave a Sarong that might sell retail for about $40 to $50 - work out the hourly rate - they weave for about 7 - 8 hours per day every day. Each family has a cow for work and the usual village lifestyle, cooking huts, sleep platforms and low roofed, earthern floor (mud with manure) and thatched or short grass roofs - these are very cool and you replace the roof every five years. Kisrty learned some weaving so can now get married - one of the guys selling the woven items actually suggested he should be the one to "love" her! See photos!
We had lunch at Kuta beach on Lombok (not the Kuta on Bali) and then on to the ex King's Summer Water Palace which was very interesting and has great pools (where the Harem used to swim with a viewing platform for the king) now public pools - Lombok previously had a Balinese King.
Back after a long but rewarding day we were going to go back to Sengigi but saw Island Time and a family we knew in the bay so called over to say hello and were pretty tired so then turned in!
Lombok is beautiful, green, many resorts that are struggling due to the collapse of tourism, mountains, hills and forests, beautiful water and reef, pearl farms.....they have just started an international airport to be completed in maybe 5 years time! A bit slower than Dubai but then the economies are poles apart!
Lombok is great, Teluk Nara a great stopover and anchorage and a lot to do. Would have liked to have stayed longer!
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Watch those Monkeys - Rabies are real risk
God bless
01/09/2008, LOMBOK - North West travelling South West
Bima, well this town at first glance perfectly fitted the non flattering Lonely Planet description. A Mudhole in the wet and a hot dustbowl in the dry that will frazzle you. After a walk up and around town we were frizzled which is just one stage past frazzled! More like a scene out of a cheap low budget western representation of a Mexican Village. Goats wandering the littered streets, a typecast 17th century port with old and small dilapidated warehouses from the Port, lining the street to the civic centre. A small market, an amazing number of shops and goods for sale.
Tried the internet cafe, the power is off for the afternoon so that is a no go!!
This Port used to get all the tourist boats from Bali on their way to Komodo and Rinca. It is certainly a great harbour with several of the Bima Schooners in and a couple of mid sized ships.
But meeting interesting people and impressions then change, Johnny came to our boat as interpreter for the local support guru, Johnny used to work in Bali, he is a shoemaker by trade and can handle sewing machines and like equipment. Sine the Bali bombings and devastation of the tourist industry he has moved to Bima and runs his trade there. Today he is helping "Mr Bram", now he is a real happy go lucky guy, he supplies us with Solar or diesel at a slightly high price, but ok as he provides excellent service including putting it in the tanks. His wife owns a small coffee outlet in a row of about a dozen identical "shops"at the busy little Port. Mr Bram has five girls. He also makes sure we are catered for but doesn't speak English thus Johnny helps him out. When we were walking the streets another guy "Mr Chappy"who is a mechanic from Java and is head of the local "Scooter Club" now lives in Bima but has lived in Bali and other places and speaks good English. Scooters are Vespa's including modified. He also rides a motorbike of 75 cc which is the typical local transport. The biggest bikes are 175cc. Now he comes down to the wharf also.
So we have Bram, keeping an eye on our dinghy etc, Chappy and a friend of theirs who works on the boats, mainly cargo now going from Bima to Makasar to Flores and back. So after some negotiation we charter them and their bikes to take us on a little tour. I get to ride in front on Chappy's bike. So we cycle up through the town (good little supermarket, not big but comprehensively supplied) and we do a little trip around town, up to a lookout where the tombs of the first and second sultan of Bima, they introduced the Muslim religion to the area. A great vantage point to see the town, the harbour and Port, the fish farming, and along the coast and back to the farming land. One of Chappy's protege's turns up on a Vespa with a Sidecar looks like ex WW2, with three 13 years olds. They can get away with riding scooters without a licence. Down from the hill we ride through some local farm land and past a quarry where predominantly women and some men are digging out rocks and breaking them with hammer and chisel into uniform sizes. They obviously also live on site as they have sleeping platforms and their meagre possessions there. The farmlands are rich and good, chicken and egg farming also. We come across a festival of children and you people doing sack races, soccer and sports. It is Sunday, and they day before the Muslim Ramaden starts. During Ramaden they fast all day from sunrise to past sunset. A number of restaurants are already closes as they do not open during this month. We ride on around the town and down to the beaches, there are mosques, temples, some massive houses and new properties side by side with traditional village style houses.
In Bima the population is Indonesian, Chinese and Arabic. There are Arabic mosques as well. Apparently everyone gets on well.
The town is undtidy, very very untidy - litter everywhere. Mr Chappy confides in me that the Scooter Club have an annual clean up day of one street and he is disappointed that people will not keep it tidy. The creeks and drains are crowded with litter which must wash out to sea causing the volume of rubbish in the sea.! It is ironic that the rubbish in the streets and drains is not recognised but many of the houses are spotlessly clean and well kept, and many of the women especially and immaculately clothes and presented and obviously take pride in themselves and their houses, but it never translates to the public area.
Heading back through the suburbs --- look out a mob of cows crossing, now a goat, oops just missed those startled chooks! Chappy says, 'be careful" and we get back into the town traffic which is a few cars, many motorcycles and a lot of horse drawn carriages characteristic to this area that race around town with people and goods as well as the hand carts. Well they are much better than Bemo Buses but I couldn't get the girls on one as they thought it was too mean to the horses! The stout little horses are also an icon of this area.
Riding in the traffic is something else, the rule is mix and merge, there are actually some traffic lights here but nobody notices them, see a break- GO. They don't have to wear helmets but many do, we don't have helmuts. Chappy says a number of young boys get killed in the traffic on the bikes but it is not dangerous out of town.
Going back to the Port Dianne is stopped at security by the Harbour Master who wants all our papers. So we go back to Bram's shop for coffee but the Harbour Master pursues us to go out to the boat now. I take him out with the self appointed agent for me and friend of Bram. We have much trouble explaining how Kirsty is there but is not on the cruising permit and someone on the permit who is not here! Big problem says the Harbour Master. I copy off a heap of documents for him and find Kirsty's passport which of course I also copy for him. With a wad of paper in his pocket, fees for the night and a payment for the agent who also takes away our garbage but is very helpful all is well so we head back to shore.
We go looking for dinner but with Ramaden starting tomorrow that is futile so return and eat on board.
Off at 0600 Monday morning with about 160 miles to Lombok we first start motoring out the long entry to Teluk Bima about 10 mile. Then we sail, then we use the MPS, then we sail with the wind forward of the beam, then with it behind, then we gybe, but all in all we have a bit of motoring, and bit of good sailing, and a bit of slow sailing which seems typical of a days sailing in Indonesia. Probably about 6 hours motoring for the day. As night approaches the wind again boxes the compass and we start with a wind behind us but very light. Now the sun comes up here and is light at 0600 and it goes down and is dark at 1800 (6:00pm). By 8 we have a building breeze and soon 20 plus knots. Through the night it blows hard wind at 20 - 25 knots, mainly from the beam or abaft the beam but we have, ALL night, a 2 to 3+ knot tide or current against us and against the wind causing a steep and uncomfortable chop and the feeling that the wind is much stronger. We are also in very open water as we cross a massive bay and pass islands but also we want to be out in the shipping channel to avoid nets, FAD's (fish attracting devices), small unlit boats etc. We pass a number of ships, we put a reef into the Main, in the early hours we also reef the genoa by furling. We don't really want to go this fast but it is good to make up the miles. Our speed through the water is 9/10 knots but across the bottom against the current it is 7 - 8.5 sometimes 9 knots. It is not until after daylight as we start to round Lombok Island that we shake off this adverse current and the water settles a bit.
Next trick is that at 0630 the wind is gone, the sea is flattening, by 0800 we are motoring again! A good things Solar is so cheap!!!
Not a great night but we have covered over 100 nautical miles overnight so can't have everything.
Now we are heading into Lombok which is adjacent to Bali Island. We are going to an area where there is three small islands and will anchor up. I have been up all night so will probably take a break there. Should be good snorkelling and diving off the islands it is written up well. Then maybe tomorrow we will head off to Bali either north or south not sure yet, another day another decision.
Most of the fleet is now back at Labuhan Jobe where the formalities start today - Tuesday 2nd. But we must press on as we have decided to head for Singapore and find a marina before returning to Cairns beginning of October. Now we have to start thinking about timelines again!
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29/08/2008, Gili Banta - South Side
This morning we took a walk on Komodo early morning without seeing much, would have liked to rouse up the pigs that were on the beach last night. Also took a run around the beaches and mangrove, the reef went right up to the Mangroves in places and the water was crystal clear. Returning to Charmar we noticed one of the traditional sailing ships coming into the bay and it took up the other mooring. They are beautiful vessels and this one was obviously a dive charter with two dual outboard tenders to take the divers to the choice spots nearby. We sailed off our mooring down the bay under a light breeze starting the engines to get through a rather narrow channel between Komodo and an adjacent Island about where we started snorkelling yesterday. Passing through here was done with great care as the chart area we are in obviously has an offset of 900 feet south and 900 feet west, but we do not know exactly what it is. This means that the chart on the plotter is slightly misplaced and our position is not the longitude and latitude the GPS determines so we do a bit of eyeball and manual navigation going through here although I have determined what I think the chart offset is and programmed it into the plotter - but it could be wrong!
The channel is deep but narrow and we go through it and then head off for Gili Banta Island about 15 mile off. The wind stops then comes from right in front so we motor again, we have done quite a lot of motoring in the last week! Across the passage and we pick up a tidal run of about 3 - 4 knots which is running against the wind so the water becomes quite confused and choppy with eddies and whirls and flat spots. As we head to Gili Banta it also has a very narrow channel and entrance and we wonder whether the chart offset still applies. As we get into the bay with the use of Radar and eyeball we determine that the offset is no longer relevant it applied only to Chart Area 3756 Labuan Baho, Rinca and Komodo, but now we are off that Chart. Interesting exercise and reminder that GPS and Plotter positions are not always reliable and if we had followed it implicitly would have ended up on the "bricks".
Tucked into Gili Banta it is approaching low tide so we go and do a drift snorkel, interesting but no where near the quality or intensity of Komodo. Then a beach walk which really puts one in a state of depression - again coming across here the water whilst very clear is full of rubbish - the same again - plastics, bottles, bags, bags, bags, containers, foil packs, packaging and of course numerous left thongs, shoes and more plastics. This beautiful bay, probably more than 50 mile from any major town or population, unoccupied except for us and a couple of local fishing boats of traditional type, but the beach and land behind the beach is covered in this sea dumped rubbish. It would take a team weeks to clean it up. Now I don't blame the sea for spewing it up back onto the beach, after all it came from the land, but where does this end. It seems to me it is a compounding problem as the influence of the west and the companies who can turn a dollar from making plastics and containers and wrappers that are not ecologically friendly are now dumping this product into these highly populated areas with no regard to the impact it has on our world. Just as and similarly as smoking is extinguishing in the western world the companies put their energies into promoting these known damaging product into third world countries and communities where we seen kids of 8, 9, 10 smoking cigarettes. Of course the companies say it is not, "THEIR fault" they only make the product they can't regulate where it ends up, but in pursuit of the holy dollar they continue promoting the product, pushing it and delivering the death and suffering it causes on these unsuspecting individuals and communities to replace the market it is losing now in the educated world. We are doing the same with rubbish. I haven't been to sea on major trips now for a number of years, I think maybe the last was 6 years ago but I just cannot believe the change in the state of our oceans over that time. If it continues, and I see nothing happening to mitigate it, then we will kill of our oceans and condemn them to be one giant rubbish dump! What can be done?
Seeing what is happening here certainly gives one an appreciation of the impact of littering, and of the horrendous liability we are building up in the world with packaging and plastics that are finding their way into our oceans and they just don't break down.
Cape York was a little the same with junk on every beach and place, but not as bad as up here where the currents and tides seem to capture the rubbish and swirl it around in an every day increasing quantity.
Such beautiful areas, what original and rugged countryside, what reef and corals equivalent to the Great Barrier Reef, but what a place to turn into a rubbish dump of world proportions! We cannot blame the local population, much of this product comes from the west!
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