23/05/2009, Teluk Penewar
At the time it was a great idea to go to the Pirates Bar at Sebana the night before we planned to leave! After all we were the only customers there when we arrived at 2030, and the band was ready to entertain us. We just had to try one of their unique Towers - two jugs in a tower with an ice tube in the middle and you pour your own. I had seen them before they are just "natty" but had never had enough company to buy one. You will have to wait a few more days for the photo but it will be put on this site at the next internet stopover. Well it was a great night! TWO towers later and the band singing our every request we danced and enjoyed the entertainment and managed to share it without about another four or five guests that came along.
BUT it did lead to a small postponement to our planned 0600, "at the latest" departure and at 0930 we slipped out lines at Sebana after another enjoyable stay there and motored off down the Mangrove Creek toward Johor Straits and Singapura. As the morning progressed we motored into the light breeze which stayed "right on the nose" all the way around the bottom of Malaysia as we made our way East and then came around inside a small island to start heading north, all the way dodging and avoiding the omnipresent fish nets and fishing buoys and boats. As we headed north we took advantage of the easterly breeze in the Genoa to squeeze an extra knot and started our way further north, further north than Charmar has been before.
We tracked along under one engine and sail for the greater part of the very pleasant day and decided at about 1500 to pull into a small bay to see if it would comfortable enough to anchor in for a sleep at least and the night at best. Well it was good, the wind swung from onshore to offshore not long after we anchored off, but the South China Sea does not carry swell in any event. A bit of a sleep and by then a rain squall over the land had sucked away the wind and it calmed off so now we are getting ready for dinner, cooked again by Neil, and hopefully a good night sleep for an EARLY start tomorrow to knock off about 40 miles to get to an Island anchorage further north.
Certainly we are blessed with gastronomic delights with Neil on board and his wonderful way with food.
It is good to be on the move again, although mostly motoring and unfortunately I think this is going to be typical of South China Sea but we will have to wait and see.
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Comments [2]
Rob's not joking about the temps. We wish we were all there with you. Especially with Scotty cooking. A trip of a life time. Enjoy and take heaps of photos. Happy sailing. LOL
Back to touring we headed off this morning by coach to a Tropical Fruit Farm which despite some scepticism was very interesting and with a great morning tea of fresh tropical and exotic fruit. Onto a Homestay Village for some culture and coffee and visitation and then a "little lunch" before we went on to "Bob's Homestay" further up on the water way towards Johor Baru and a delightful spot and would be an excellent play for a nice relaxing break. Witnessed a traditional wedding and then a magnificient lunch cooked by Bob's wife and helpers. A great spot that we will remember and it would be possible to anchor out the front. Ok onto a fisherman's museum which being a nautical crowd we all enjoyed before going onto the Desaru Golden Beach Hotel for afternoon and a glimpse of the South China Sea that we will sail on next week, maybe even anchor up here for a night before going back to Sebana for High Tea. Well FED indeed! and a very enjoyable day. Tomorrow is supply day and probably more monkey feeding - Dianne has her supply of groundnuts and the odd banana which sends them crazy! They are well behaved monkeys though, and the squirrels and an ant eater yesterday are all good to see.
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16/05/2009, Sebana Cove
Well here we are back in Sebana Cove, it is quite warm and there is LOTS of cleaning to do. Since our last visit in February mould and green has taken over the sunny external sides of Charmar. A small fleet of birds have carried what must amount to several bales of nesting material on board and have found inside the main sail cover a great place to set up myriad nests!
Went a bought a small "Gerni" which is just great for the clean up and is restoring the outside to its former glory. Boats are starting to arrive now at Sebana and we are catching up with some old friends. Went into Siggi Ringit yesteday for some shopping (including Gerni).
Had a diver do the bottom which was good. Generally all seems to be well here
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18/04/2009, Sebana - Johor
Malaysia is situated between 1 and 7 degrees north and has traditionally been the centre of regional trade due to its strategic location. With the growing number of marinas around the country is fast becoming accessible to cruisers and no longer a place to just pass by.
The west coast of Peninsula Malaysia has always been the main route for cruisers sailing from Australia to Europe. The eastern side of the country (east coast of Peninsula Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah) offer a much quieter scene. This rally is meant to unearth some of the less traveled but spectacular destinations of the east. We hope to discover long sandy beaches and idyllic islands, unspoiled and unhurried. Some of the best diving sites in the world are located here and some still waiting to be discovered.
For the year 2009 we intend to take you from Penang to Kota Kinabalu. There is so much to look forward to. The journey is as much about self discovery as it is about visiting our friendly hosts.
Visiting Malaysia, as many of you already know, is hassle-free and convenient for long-term stopovers. The destinations that you will visit are also easily accessible by air. Travelling to any part of the world or receiving friends and family at the rally stops should not be a problem to anyone.
We would like to thank Tourism Malaysia for their advice, direction and support.
This event is a continuation of our efforts to promote marine tourism in Malaysia and we invite all sailors to join the Sail Malaysia Passage to the East and Discover Malaysia by Sea!
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On 13th February we arrived back at Changi airport from Brisbane. As it was evening we needed to stay over to catch the ferry to Sebana the following morning. We discovered Changi Village Hotel near the airport with a free shuttle, and also not far from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal for the morning. Lovely, reasonable and even better located near a food and local market where traditional meals were available for Sing$3, and wasn't it great to get back to the variety of foods and spices for dinner and breakfast!
Saturday across on the Ferry to Sebana, where all was well with Charmar and four days of just, well not much at all. A little tiny bit of maintenance and cleaning, swimming, walking and eating, eating swimming and walking and snoózin'. Feed the monkeys, watch the monitor lizards and the horn bill birds!
So we decide to go to Penang and maybe Langkawi. On the staff bus at 0700 to Bandar Penawar, catch an express coach to Kuala Lumpur, get off and walk across to the transit station, where a chap says, "where are you going", we say Penang and he walks us into the terminal and puts us on an express coach to Penang which left within half an hour! It would have taken us hours to find the right coach in the massive terminal!!
Arrive at Butterworth at about 1900 out of the coach, directly onto a ferry for the short ride to Pilau Pinang (Penang Island - Georgetown).
Go to the first lodge, grotty, catch a taxi to take us to the hotel area, tell him we just want somewhere clean for the night and he takes us 50 metres around a corner to a very clean lovely little hotel which we really like - The Friendship Hotel and VERY clean, pleasant and reasonable, we will come back here and can recommend it. Well worth the 10 ringit negotiated taxi fare!!
Stay the night walk to the ferry terminal at 0700 the next morning and catch the Ferry to Langkawi direct. Off the Ferry 2.5 hours later, hire a motor scooter and scoot to the other side of Langkawi to Cenang Beach, rent a room, drop our backpacks, onto the scooter up the road to jump off the bike straight onto the ferry to Rebak Island Resort and Marina. Meet our friends on Tiaki there for a couple of hours and tour the Island and Marina. Can't wait unfortunately for Kassoumay's owners to arrive on Saturday and catch the staff ferry back to Langkawi Island and head down the road back to our room. Quick ocean swim. Back on the scooter did a trip around the bottom of the Island to check out a dry dock and marina and onto Kuah the main area and township. It was dark so we went back through the middle of the Island - stopped at a local market to eat local fare for dinner - it was great (where the locals gather and eat can't be too far wrong!). Back to our room and bed after getting some mossie coils to fight off the persistent beasts!
Up early for breakfast, should have had a swim but forgot to, joined the locals for breakfast, went to visit another marina and boatyard and headed back to Royal Langkawi Yacht Club and Marina where we did a tour of inspection, quick lunch and back on the Ferry to Penang, with a stopover at a Marine Park Island on the way.
Back to our Friendship Hotel where we stayed one night ago, and asked for and was given a discount as a regular!
Perhaps an interesting management theory here, don't overplan but use the features of the environment to your advantage and your strategy may just work. Sometimes overplanning just leads to disappointment and failure of detailed plans to materialise! Broad plans and flexibility to achieve a given result using whatever comes along to advantage may just be a better recipe for our times!
Now to find another scooter and get around Penang. Dianne loves Langkawi (for good reason!) but is reserved about Penang so I need to convince her of its beauty and merits!!! Where is that scooter??
Sorry no camera with us, no photos, only memories.
PS: We find a scooter in Penang down in Litte India for 20 ringit and head off to the beach side markets for dinner, wow it was just fantastic and we get back to the Friendship Hotel before midnight but full, fat and happy.
After dinner whilst walking around the markets we visited "Dr Fish",
now this is where you sit with your feet in an "aquarium" and hundreds of little Dr Fish eat the dead skin off your feet and legs, and hands if you like. Little "cat fish" come along and vacuum where Dr Fish has been. In doing so they inject an enzyme that is "good" for your skin. Well it is a very funny feeling. Whilst there a South American was there with his girlfriend and parents, now he had very sensitive feet and burst out in raucous laughter everytime the hundreds of little fish set out about 'chewing' under his feet. It does tickle but you do get used to it but he just couldn't stand it and everytime he put his feet back in he burst out in uncontrollable laughter which was contagious to the group there. It was great entertainment and your feet felt so good afterwards as well - that was a bonus! Not a piranah in the tank anywhere!
Saturday we head off around and over and through Penang on the scooter and see a lot of the Island. Up hill and down dale was the order of the day as the Island is quite steep in parts. Scooter is a great way to travel around these parts - and we arrive back near the markets where we started last night for a shaved ice treat and banana fritters!
As we set off we see a large monitor lizard swimming in the sea as we are now travelling around the beaches and pretty coastline.
Onto Georgetown where we find Caroline and Steve by riding down a one way street the wrong way and spend the evening with them and their families with a delicious steamboat dinner before getting on a coach back to KL and onto Johor Baru arriving the following morning. The coach was very comfortable and we slept well. From Johor we had a two hour stopover on Sunday morning to catch the local Mara Liner bus back to Sebana, where we had a leisurely afternoon.
Monday and it is raining all day and I have been catching up on work and Dianne reading. Interesting how with modern technology one can be actively university lecturing in Australian through ANU but actually be in Malaysia and it is all transparent via Skype, the internet etc.
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06/10/2008, Singapore
I had thought I had finished this blog for the time being but departure from Charmar or return to "home" raised some new reflections. Departure was of course through Singapore where we spent (spent is the right word! Singapore is the place in the world where money is extracted from you plastically almost without you realising it by expert traders!) a couple of days shopping, or more precisely, sprinting along behind Kirsty from shop to shop, centre to centre.
Singapore is a place of course where if there is something to be bought it can be bought! It is place of conspicuous consumption, fine foods, and perpetual motion and activity.
Shoe shops have a powerful impact on a 19 year old girl!
But for some reflection:-
* One dinner in Sinapore would pay for a whole semester of university fees for a student in Alor, Indonesia, with change
* Three drinks at Raffles Long Bar would also pay for a students fees for one semester!
* Two nights accommodation could subsidise a student for a year at University in Alor or other islands,
* Singapore grows and develops almost whilst you watch it, it is tiny but heavily populated
* Singapore - a model community where the U does exist in commUnity and commUnity benefit is one of the leading goals of the government
* Strict rules, yes, but a safe and working community is the result with very low crime rates and pride in their community
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Different Field, Different Grasshoper
We have been fortunate, and privileged over the last couple of months to be taking part in Sail Indonesia, a fleet of sailing vessels, many of them sailing around the World, who have joined together with the Sail Indonesia Rally from Darwin to Singapore through Indonesia.
It is interesting to talk with these folk, global travellers, about their experiences in Australia, in Cairns and how they compare with their experiences around the World.
Moreso it is enlightening to see this group of people who could be considered to be "haves", after all they do own boats and have the means to sails long distances and support themselves although many do it on, by 'our standard' on a shoe string budget, compared to those who are really "have nots", for example the West Timorese and Indonesian peoples of places like Kupang where the Yachts enter Indonesia and commence their tour of the country.
The 'haves' of the Western World certainly have the material possessions and the desire to accumulate material possession often for the sake of them. The West Timorese people often leading a traditional life, certainly do not have material possessions but do have happiness with their lot, a true society of mutual support and many of the better characteristics of societies of people that we have lost in the West.
Interestingly we had no concerns moving about in Kupang or Kalabati any time of the day or night, but I couldn't say that about our home town of Cairns after midnight on just about any night of the week or even during daylight when we see senseless bashings and muggings that seem now to be almost a daily occurrence.
And it seems ironic that those with the least share the most, and those in the world that are the "haves" as opposed to the 'have nots" are least willing to share not only the material goods that they have but also the spiritual warmness and common kindness and acceptance of mankind. Their parting words were often, "thank you for coming to see us and to share our lives, you are welcome back at any time and are now part of our family, we apologise if we have not done as much as possible for you or if you are disappointed with anything you have had or seen today, but we are only people and not perfect". I would add "but more perfect than many in the western world!"
On each occasion they wanted to know what they could do FOR US, not what they could take from us. Maybe we could start thinking about that in the promotion of our tourism businesses that need to be regenerated.
On our first night in Kupang the Provincial Governor hosted a dinner, entertainment and welcome ceremony for the entire crews of the yachts and each person was presented a gift to commemorate the occasion. The Ministry of Tourism provided a wonderful 15 hour tour the next day right into the most remote highlands of West Timor where we had the opportunity to share life with these villagers. They were open, sharing and provided each of us with a gift again. A truly humbling and levelling experience. Only days later we experienced the same in Kalabati.
In the West we judge people by what they have, in these areas they are judged for who they are. These people are happy and contented with their life, largely without material possessions and it does make one wonder - who is really in the best situation with leading a real and satisfying life - the haves or the have nots?
I guess the answer lies in the symptoms of what is becoming an increasingly dysfunctional community of substance abuse with alcohol, extreme substance abuse with drugs, depression, suicide, senseless bashing and muggings and one can only be left to wonder where it is leading to?
Just maybe the grasshopper in the barren field is more appreciative of the finer things in life than the one who has everything in lush fields. It is worth remembering also that every field has lean seasons, droughts and floods and they move from field to field. We often feel entitled to the lifestyle we have, we could however have been born into much different circumstances and should remember that when judging our neighbours who are not as materially well off.
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Our reflections and focal key memories of 2,000 miles of Indonesia can be summarised as:-
People - welcoming, cultural, industrious, friendly, proud, helpful
Boats - thousands and thousands of traditional boats fishing every day, everywhere
Fantastic Anchorages - myriads of anchorages that are beautiful throughout the archipelago
Islands and protected waterways - the Whitsundays only 1000 times bigger and better and with every one of thousands of islands having distinct communities
Sailing - just fantastic along rugged coastlines in deep water, protected waterways, islands and straits, bays and harbours, so interesting and so different
Dragons, Bima Schooners, Praus, Fish traps and things that go bang in the night!
People that care for their housing, albeit quite humble in many cases, it is clean, tidy and cared for
People who work hard to make the best of limited opportunities
Beaches, beautiful islands, coral reefs, snorkelling, diving beautiful clear water, magnificent waterways.
Bureaucracy - heh - but no worse certainly than what we have allowed to happen in Australia in the last decade!
Rubbish - there seems no recognition of rubbish and pollution in public area, a house can be maintained immaculately with rubbish everywhere across the road, creeks, drains, waterways, the ocean - rubbish is just thrown down. This is a a global problem now and will exacerbate in years to come destroying our oceans. Western and wealthy nations MUST start helping Indonesia NOW to address this problem. A clean up Indonesia campaign is a MUST. Beautiful tourist areas are marred by unimaginable piles of rubbish - hundreds of miles of beautiful clear ocean waters are full of plastics, bottles, bags, foil and wrappers - mostly supplied by Western Countries and now destroying OUR oceans - it will come back to haunt us. Something needs to be done NOW! Remote and beautiful island beaches are covered with Rubbish, Plastics, Bottles and Bags - Reefs and beautiful waterways the same, it washes out the drains and waterways into the Oceans - by the tons - every day.
The Rally - do it, it is a wonderful opportunity to see and do things and have access to areas not otherwise possible. Be challenged by it and take advantage of these opportunities - you will be one of a priveleged few who have this opportunity while it lasts.
Keep an open mind, enjoy the parts that you wish to and enjoy sailing to other underexplored areas as the whim takes you. Take patience, tolerance and understanding in abundant supplies and you will gain from it!
Above all YOU will the visitor in their country.
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An easy morning in Nongsa Point Marina and we cleared our papers with considerable ease, coffeed, talked and considered the gallop across the Shipping Channels to Singapore and then to Malaysia.
We finally set off at about 1220 for the 15 mile run, having seen the extent of traffic in this area which is quite amazing with a Traffic Separation Scheme and a ship every twelve minutes, supertankers that look about 4 times as long as a "normal" ship and vessels of 1000 feet and 20 metres draft plying the water at from 2 to 15 knots in both directions and then local high speed ferries etc also joining in.
Anyway we cross the shipping channel with a couple of deviations and head for the Changi end of Singapore past the wonderful looking Malaysian Naval Training Centre on our starboard and then for the four mile trek up what seems to be a mangrove lined river to nowhere until we finally arrive at the Sabana Cove Marina and Resort. This is a great facility seemingly in the middle of nowhere but a well protected marina and we clear customs etc with a very efficient process (Australia could learn something here!) and dock.
Time for a wash down, covers up, it is VERY tropical here at present. There are ferries 45 minutes to Singapore. Monkeys in the trees and full on resort with all facilities.
Looks good!
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After a rolly night at the last anchorage we were up and a way at 0500 it was one of those anchorages where the best thing you can say about them is leaving it. Mind you we have good anchorages throughout Indonesia - none that you could really complain about particularly because some of them are "open" anchorages.
Making a run for the last 56 miles to Nongsa Point we first sailed through a squall and winds from the north - of course the direction we are going - but most of the squall passed in front and to the East so we only had a little rain. The we sailed, motored, motor sailed, sail/motored, motored with the sail up, motored with the sail down, sail out/sail in and so on until we arrived at Nongsa Point Marina.
Now this is the first time we have not had to put an anchor down in over 65 days! The Marina is great, newly renovated and the surrounding building all in the state of renovation.
We met up with several boats we had encountered on the way, "Dutch Touch" from USA and we all enjoyed their hospitality for sundowners, Sandpiper came in and several boats from and not from the rally that we had spoken to.
Went up the hill for dinner which was great and our last taste of Indonesia as in the morning we clear from Nongsa Point for Singapore Channel and Malaysia.
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21/09/2008, Palau Mesanak
Last night 'Sandpiper' and 'Kassoumay' came over for drinks and Equator Crossing celebrations which we all enjoyed in an excellent anchorage and calm well protected bay.
We had a good sleep in and then met some people from the local village who brought us out a bag of a fruit - not sure what it is but a bit like an apple and something else. We gave them some clothes and crocs and they responded with fresh squid. The people love getting their photographs taken so they requested photograph, which we took and then printed out for them. They wanted to give us fish as well. We had fish given to us yesterday, by our standards they are very small and a lot of work to get a little bit of flesh so we thanked them and told them we had plenty of fish. Most of the fishing boats seem to catch lots and lots of these small fish.
It was after 1100 when we finally weighed the anchor and set off for our next destination which was only about 25 mile but we ended up motoring and motor sailing most of the way. Used the opportunity to make water and to cook bread and cool the fridges. With a current in our direction we made good time and were in by 1530 with half an hour still to go to cook the bread!
There were many fish traps close to the islands in this area, these seem to be permanent structures on the edges of the reef which attract the fish and some have little accommodation units on them. There were also nets again and we managed to run into a massive log or bamboo that must have been 40 foot long and more than a foot across. No damage fortunately only a small scratch to the antifouling paint.
All around us there has been a tropical squall with lightning and thunder but we have had only a few spots of rain. We would actually like a really good tropical downpour to wash things down as a few nights ago we got covered with ash from fires on the island we were at. The last squall we had had only just removed the dust and ash from Darwin where nightly there was a "black snow" fall from surrounding fires.
Tonight the anchorage is not as good but we will probably head off at about 0400 in the morning to try to get to Nongsa Marina in the one day. This is where we check out of Indonesia.
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20/09/2008, Palau Kentar
On leaving Bangka we had the wind behind us and an overnight great sail without much traffic and a just a steady rolling swell on a flat sea. Glorious sailing conditions throughout the night with just a headsail up and a reasonable but oh so comfortable speed. Continuing on the same the next morning. We don't have to rush so are enjoying the comfortable sailing conditions.
We sailed on in company with Kassoumay and stopped for lunch at Pulau Bujang. Into the hammock, had a couple of hours sleep and then we set off around the reefs and rocks towards Pulau Kentar. On route near Pulau Kongka Besar we approached 00 degrees, 00.000 minutes and crossed the equator with the customary celebration and recognition of King Neptune en route and finally into our destination at Pulau Kentar at about 3.15pm. On the way cleaned and cooked the fish the local fishermen had given to us in Bangka, the fish are small and fiddly but so much work has gone into them catching and cleaning etc we have to do them justice and make sure we eat them! They were so generous in giving them to us.
Pulau Kentar proves to be a great anchorage and we find a boat "Sandpiper" that we had sailed into Kupang with at the start of the rally and two boats from Sweden we don't know. So of course that night we have Kassoumay and Sandpiper both from the UK but with Kassoumay having a french family on board over for a celebration to King Neptune to celebrate the Equator Crossing and to make plans for the next few days.
We enjoy the evening and debate the merits of world important issues such as is it better to rally or go alone, is the rally worth the cost, the follies of the admin issues faced by the rally boats and the impounding in Kupang.
Generally I think the view was that if you are a rally person, or if you are not a rally person, the rally makes sense to visit Indonesia - BUT, heh, be prepared to roll with it and enjoy the benefits for as much as you want to and go it alone for as much as you want to - quite different experiences but both with merits.
This anchorage is very protected. There is a mass of fishing boats way over out behind us and numerous permanent fish traps in the area.
The next few days, who knows, we are all going in the same direction, maybe 25 miles per day maybe 80 - we will decide tomorrow but we are now close to Nongso Point Marina where we clear out of Indonesia. Kirsty has to be out by the 24th. Then to Sebana Cove and we have just received all the great information on this from Caroline THANKS, it sounds good.
Good night King Neptune! We now dwell in the northern hemisphere!
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19/09/2008, Palau Bangka
We went by dinghy (dinghied does not compute to the spell checker) to the village this morning to deliver a case of clothes kindly donated by Anglicare to the lady and group that Dianne met yesterday. We included some Rid, Bushman and Insect repellent as one of their children had been suffering from considerable sandfly/bug bites. Of course they were delighted and returned the favour with freshly cut green coconuts which are great to drink and the soft immature flesh delightful to eat - you really need to go troppo for a while to appreciate the value of the green coconut. We went shopping at a couple of the 'shoplets' for eggs and a few extras and the village group wanted to see Charmar so they followed us back across the bay and came on board. It was great fun and we took and printed photos for them, which they absolutely enjoy, dined on chocolate bars and communicated well without language! Great fun.
On the way back to Charmar we had passed a fishing boat anchored only a short distance behind us and they called us over and presented us with a coconut just turning yellow, so we took them back a bottle of softdrink. After the first visitors left they signalled they would like to come across so they have been on board for about three hours. We have been playing with lures and fishing gear and they have taken away some spoons and lures and stainless wire and gear. The youngest was 15 and there were three of them. They wouldn't eat lunch but we are not sure whether they were Muslim and Ramaden they do not eat for this season as most people here are Budhist or Christian. They really enjoyed getting off their rolly boat onto a stable platform for a while. They have a compass on their boat but the elder one and I guess the skipper was fascinated by the GPS Plotter and depthsounder! Winches and things on board generally they all wanted to check out.
There are many Chinese people in this village and one man who was visiting his brother here for holiday said to us it called China Town where we were. Of course relations between the Chinese and Indonesian have not always been cordial but here everyone seems to be living in harmony, and why not it is a delightful area with sandy beaches, coral reefs, surf beaches, comfortable accommodation, although the fishing village people were in stilt houses with basic huts and a common well. They were the nicest and most welcoming people.
But it is time for us to press on as Kirsty only has less than a week on her visa! So in an hour or so we will untie the boys on the prau behind us, they are still attached but are back on their boat, pull up a headsail and drift off north in the following breeze to see how far we can get overnight.
Talk to you then!
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18/09/2008, Palau Bangka
This anchorage at Palau Bangka is great. There are permanent fish traps built in the sea outside this area where they put lights on at night, lower nets, take their catch. It seems people get left out on them to do the work. They are constructed of Bamboo in about 20 metres of water.
Back to the anchorage, palm tree lined beaches, shallow at about 5 metres, and interesting bays, rocky outcrops and long beaches of white sand. AND the beaches are relatively clean about as clean as most Aussie beaches, some thongs, bottles and the odd bit of flotsam but relatively clean. Yesterday we went about 20 mins by dinghy to the local village. Not much English spoken here but a very large house on the beach and the owner took us through the house block, past the monkeys, chooks etc into the main street of the village. People came out and spoke with us and one elderly man took us and very proudly showed us around a hotel they are building with accommodation, billiard room, cafe etc. Very interesting. From amongst this group we found out there were no markets in the village, we would have to go to the city! (Parang???) , no bemos or buses and a car was hard to get. One chap volunteered a motorcycle ride so I set off with instructions to buy fresh fruit and veges for both boats.
Off we went along first dirt roads , then bitumen track through villages and settlements across the island and sure enough 30 mins later we were in a significant town with a shopping street, market shops and a supermarket. Papaya, grapes, oranges, melon, lychees, apples, pears, etc were bought at the market shops and we visited the supermarket but didn't buy, loaded up the scooter and headed back for the beach village. Stopped at a roadside vendor and bought two pineapples and two cucumbers (much cheaper than the town prices) and headed off again with a very fully loaded scooter bottoming out on all the many bumps and potoholes!
We were back at the village in the hour and half. The boy who took me to town was a mechanic from Djakarta and he didn't want anything for taking me in. Of course we did provide him a gift - it was great to top up the fruit and vege supplies and the Papaya (although expensive by local standards) are so rich and good to taste and BIG.
The village here is predominantly Budhist, but the boy who took me to town was proudly Christian. Many people appear to be of Chinese extraction. The houses are neat and tidy and well kept and furnished and it appears to be a very pretty and pleasant place to livel.
The village is a fishing village and Dianne and the others had been "talking" with the locals and making friends - we will take a suitcase of clothing back over this morning. We might also be able to buy some fish when the boats come back in this morning - goodness knows we seem to have no possibility of actually catching one here - and no wonder the way we fish is just plain lazy compared to the work they put into it.
There are maybe a hundred or so fishing boats tied up outside the village all fitted with strong lamps etc that go out fishing from here at night.
A very friendly and welcoming place.
Large fires on the island showered us with ash and soot last night which was a great shame as we were so pleased that the heavy rain squalls of a few nights ago had finally washed the last of the Darwin ash and dust off the boat! Now we are back where we started!
Time wise we could have gone up to see the Orang-u-Tans in Kalimantan but we are enjoying the easy days here and have really enjoyed this anchorage and a bit of swimming, snorkelling and exploring.
Late this afternoon we will probably head off for an overnighter to the next destination.
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15/09/2008, Java Sea
At 1915 last night a red ball, looking like a giant hot air balloon, grew from the horizon almost directly behind us, the east. As it grew and then rose above the horizon the full moon turned orange and then yellow and stayed with us for the night until near 0700 this morning when a red sun raised itself lazily from the same position; almost as the moon and long and guiding reflection on the water directly in our path westerly dipped away slowly.
At 0900 yesterday a light breeze started to fan the flat sea that was threatening a hot, tropical and still day. In consultation with Kassoumay on radio we decided to take advantage of the light breeze and flat seas and make our next move, one of 165 nautical miles, an overnighter at least and maybe more with the very light conditions.
We both weighed anchor and set sail, motor sailing the north westerly route until a little after what would normally be lunch time when we set the MPS and Main and managed a very pleasant sail with modest breezed on a flat and calm sea for the afternoon, The two boats crossed each other from time to time as we made our way along the same waypoints. Very pleasant sailing, or moreso getting about, reading a book, doing some tasks, and the boats saililng themselves in the idyllic conditions. As the day turned to night it made little difference in the bright moonlit evening with the flat seas visibility was excellent.
Nights ago we were in pitch black conditions, in choppy seas with ships, local boats, unlit boats, fish traps, fads, fishing boats, islands, rocks and reefs and so on. Ironically sailing in Indonesia is full of contradictions and contrasts.
Tonight we are on the flatest of seas, from horizon to horizon - north, south, east or west there is nothing to be seen. The flat but dimpled water with the light breeze just ruffling the surface extends as far as the eye can see for all points of the compass without interruption, without anything else being there. This is one massive pond from horizon to horizon in any direction.
Seemingly in the centre of this universe two catamarans are sitting on the water criss crossing occasionally and it almost seems like they are stationery and the ocean is moving under them. It appears a little surreal in these conditions.
After sailing in waters kilometres deep just metres from shore, along the side of rugged and steep coastlines and islands, passing by the volcanoes and the aftermath of the land movements that created this archipelago we are now sailing it seems on a vast pond that is constantly 34 metres deep, not just for a short distance but for hundreds of miles, constantly 34 metres deep and no sign of any land or rocks or life. Yes eventually we cross a shipping lane and several ships are moving south and north across or behind our path, and eventually we see a fishing boat or two, but in reality we are pretty much out here by ourselves - somewhat unique with the boating traffic in Indonesia and the myriad fishing vessels that ply the waters miles and miles from any location or village or settlement.
We motor, we sail, we put the MPS up, we take it down and we motor sail in our effort to keep up an average of 6 knots, Sometimes we are doing 8 knots sometimes down to 3 calling us to start one or the other of the motors so we get in before dark today. And the day delivers more of the same. The main and the MPS until 0930 now we have a motor running as well. Kassoumay has slipped a little way away from us but we touch base every six hours and can still pick them up on Radar.
It is hot and tropical as we are getting close to the equator, in a day or two we should cross the equator all going well.
In the balmy conditions we have all read a number of books, and of course the chores of keeping a vessel going, eating etc is easy as at times it seems the vessels are hardly moving and yet we are maintaining our averages.
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15/09/2008, Palau Nangka
Yesterday was a day of relaxation and rest, we had a snorkel across some great reef areas identifying some unusual occupants, baked bread, and watched a dvd loaned to us by Kassoumay, Master and Commander which seemed very appropriate watching the sailing clippers with the ocean horizon as a backdrop to the left and right of the screen, gave it real identity.
This morning we were to head off but are "glassed out" with the water as flat as a mirror and at this point no breeze at all. We will stay unless it pipes in which it may do as it is still early.
Our location is Palua Nangka which is an unoccupied island, with a great reef surrounding it, and a small offlying cay covered in coconuts, the classic tropical island scene. The islands are tropical and green, with Nangka having steep and rainforest covered sides - almost jungle, and the cay just a cover of coconuts. The interminable fishing boats come in at night and go in the morning and the occasional boat, totally covered in cut trees or greenery comes in, stops for a short break, and heads off again. Who knows where they come from and where they are going to??
One of the lasting images we will have of Indonesia is the boats, everywhere there is boat traffic and small boats plying their trade.
Coming on the last leg Dianne was at the helm in the pitch black of night when she noticed a small light, she called me up only to identify that there was a small boat only about 50 metres in front of us, it steamed around in a circle as we also changed course to avoid it and as soon as we went pas they turned off their light to completely disappear into the darkness once again.
Well a stunning morning here, we have just been on the rally radio net and they are in 25 knots of breeze and we are in flat calm. Some boats up at Kalimantan seeing the Orang u Tangs which would have been a good trip also, but we will reserve that one for a later date.
Our next leg is 165 nautical miles so an overnighter - and we would like a fresh but not strong breeze to knock this over quickly.
Today we will leave if the breeze freshens in, if not more snorkelling and exploring and maybe a dive.
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14/09/2008, Palau Nangka
From yesterday's blog you would know that we were in ideal sailing conditions through the previous night, comfortable, speeds of 11, 10, 9 knots consistently, running at about twice the speed we had planned for the passage, beautiful moonlit night, flat seas - oh how idyllic it is to sail in these conditions!!
But the Ocean is a hard taskmaster and as we near the equator and the opportunity to meet King Neptune himself he takes the opportunity to remind us it is not always like this! Coming into yesterday morning the wind continues to whip up, the seas get lumpy, and wind gets "harder" - not that the wind strength is a problem but it is 'hard wind' - rain squalls and lightning appear in the distance to the east and to the west.. As we contact the vessel travelling with us, and they started at midnight so are a fair distance behind as we expected them to catch us we find that they have been through two squalls with high winds and rough conditions.
We see squalls up ahead so we put a reef in the main, we get the squalls, it blows a bit but not excessively only about 25's, but it comes from the front and the conditions deteriorate so we furl the genoa and set the staysail - a smaller headsail. I get the lens knocked out of my prescription sunglasses in the process, of course it disappears quickly! We sail on, our companions are no longer catching us. They get rain, we get the deteriorating conditions.
Yesterday was grey and miserable and not a comfortable sail.
As we go into nightfall we plan and replan our destinations and waypoints to get to an anchorage and tucked in safely for the next morning - Sunday morning.
Early evening although it is very dark out because of the cloud we can see a black, very black, very very black area on the horizon that reflects black on the water in the light of lightning flashes. We see it on the radar, a large rain squall - it is a rain or rain and wind squall? We keep our reduced sail but try to sail around the west of it as it bares down on us, and we were sailling towards the centre of it. It catches us of course and rains, and rains and rains - torrential. The decks needed a flush with fresh water, this is the first good fresh water wash since Darwin marina! We sail up and down in it almost hove to at times, fortunately the wind in it is only about 10 knots. It is dark, very very dark, about as dark as being inside a cow's belly! We detect a track out and sail, motor out the back of the squall - we let our companions know as it is heading directly in their direction about 20 miles down the track, they are wresting with the conditions and a young family and some seasickness on board.
We agree our next destination to be our original planned destination but we are almost a day in front of our planned arrival in daylight hours, by sailing very slowly (which is sometimes easy) we will get to it by daylight but not too much earlier. Our companions will travel just a bit faster and catch us. We leave all reefs in and just the small headsail, the wind has dropped - since we entered the squall - and the seas are now flat and comfortable so it is quite comfortable just dribbling along with a light breeze and calm seas. We make some water for a couple of hours running one engine to keep on track in the now fluky breeze.
Towards sunrise we are proceeding towards our anchorage, we would not attempt to go into without daylight and we are just a little concerned that there may not be enough light. We see our companions right back in the distance, so now we have visual contact. The anchorage is inside an extensive reef on a small island in about 25 metres so is quite a deep anchorage. The anchorage bay does not show on the charts electronic or otherwise! With the chart offsets here, even with known waypoints, we would not go in without the greatest navigation aid known to man - a good eye and sound visibility!
Cést bon! we see a boat leaving, a yacht, it is good. We call them up and they have anchored there overnight so they give us some tips on entry and where to anchor and we bid each other well. We try to raise our companions on the radio as they speak fluent french (they are from France after all!) and would have been able to communicate easier but we cannot raise them. This is a bonus that we have further waypoints!
We see a local boat go in fishing, another bonus, we go in from the north and enter a channel through the coral reefs which are quite visible now. We motor on seeking a reasonable anchoring spot and end up almost back out the other end of the channel almost where the French boat indicated they were anchored.
Our companions come in the other end of the channel, at our now expert advice, we were in there and could see the reefs clearly now!!!
They anchored nearby and it was clean up time, pancake time and for a well needed sleep for a few hours!!! Into the hammock I go.
In summary we did this passage in eight hours less than predicted as a conservative estimate, we had winds of up to 25 knots which is is not bad but tough sea conditions, we had mostly favourable currents, we had boat speeds of up to 11.3 knots which is good, we had calms - our average for the passage came to 5.63 knots - a slow passage but in some ways a quick passage! Yes your right that is confusing - just like the seas were confused. We had some great rain squalls. We had fantastic lightning shows, (we had no lightning strikes - a statistic we like to keep!).
I think maybe we will have a day or two here before we press on, the next leg is a fairly long one also and it would be good if the weather stabilised a little first.
As for the area, just beautiful, a couple of local fishing boats plying the waters - heh but everywhere there is salt water in Indonesia there is a few or a few thousand boats fishing it it.
There is small island looks like a cay covered in coconuts a short distance across - about three times as big as Green Island, there is a small rocky islet adjacent to our anchorage surrounded by reef, there is plenty of reef - the island is high sided but not mountainous, lovely sandy beaches, can't see a village but there could be one - there usually is. Imagine the Whitsundays a thousand times bigger with every island and outcrop having villages and settlements!
The ocean is a hard taskmaster at times and for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction - just when you might start thinking you have found the perfect sailing area there is a reminder that it can give you a serve as well!
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12/09/2008, Java Sea
We took a walk across Kalimanjawa , through coconut groves and along the southern beaches this morning and left at 1700 for the next leg a trip of about 220 mile. We had three channels we could go through southern, via Selat Bangka next to Java Island, Central - the obstacle course, or Northern through open water. We elected the northern to get the better sailing angle and avoid the Java Coast where the last couple of nights we had seen fantastic lightning shows and some cloud action and squalls. Java is very steep and no doubt a generator of this type of activity at this time of year.
We set off into a forecast of 15 knots. The Java Sea so far has been very kindly with excellent sailing conditions. It is very shallow compared to the areas we have been travelling in where the depth could be 200 metres within a stone throw from shore and thousands of metres (kilometres) just off shore. The Java Sea is about 60 metres depth (so we are close to land - 60 metres straight down but that is the only land we are near!) We have had 12 - 17 knot breezes and generally favourable currents that give us 7 to 8.5 knots of boatspeed in great conditions and it is a beautiful moonlight night here until about 3.30. There is quite a bit of commercial traffic including some ships and tugs towing dumb barges.
Interesting laying back in the cockpit with the stars above and reflecting that we started from Darwin with about 130 boats, along the track we were travelling with a pack of ten to a dozen or less and now for the final third of the trip we are in company (and great company they are) in Kassoumay also a catamaran. All three experiences have been good - the full pack and all the formal occasions, welcomes, trips, functions etc and the exploratory sailing alone where we are the only boats in the area and it is obviously quite a novelty for the locals to have sail boats near and around their islands!
Some of the water across from Darwin and the shoals is quite shallow, the waters around Eastern Indonesia are very deep and whilst the nearby Islands - mainly Java - are very steep the water here is relatively shallow. We will sail through the night, tomorrow and tomorrow night before reaching a suitable destination to anchor but it is great conditions and good passagemaking sailing at present.
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