Chasse Spleen

The Besson-Mackain Family Blog

Solomon Islands - Arnarvon Islands

01 May 2009
We head north to the Arnarvon Islands in the Manning Strait (between Choiseul and Isabel Provinces). This marine reserve is famous for the conservation of turtles and giant clams. Arnarvon is the oldest reserve in the Solomon and was founded in cooperation with the three communities close to the islands. Locals can fish for substance, collect megapode eggs but turtles and clams are fully protected. Any commercial activity is banned.

We arrive in poor weather conditions and are relieved to see Philip, a ranger coming to meet Chasse Spleen to show us the way among coral heads to the anchorage in the lagoon. After a few hours of rest, we go onshore and are warned that turtles eggs are about to hatch. We did not expect the adventure to start so fast, but we follow our guide to reach a Green Turtle nest. We dig the sand and the boys make a path to help the baby turtles to reach the sea. It only takes a few minutes before we see the first little creatures come out of their nest. The boys are thrilled to help the turtles to the water, safe from "naughty crabs" (as Alexis calls them).
The giant clams are the other big attraction in the islands. They mostly sit in 1-2 meters of water and can reach 1.40m and 140 kg. They have all sorts of different colours and are absolutely beautiful. The coral around them is spectacular. Arnarvon is a place for snorkelling, diving is disappointing with very strong currents and lots of sand in the water affecting the visibility.
We decide to spend time with the rangers: capturing turtles for tagging purposes (turtle rodeo), patrolling beaches at night (when females are coming onshore to lay eggs) and patrolling Sikopo the northern Island. Turtle rodeo consists in spotting any turtle swimming and jumping on its back at the appropriate time to catch it and bring it back to the boat. The main purpose is to record turtles: tagging, measuring and ensuring they are healthy. After 4 tries, Marc successfully catches a small green female turtle. Sikopo is the home of milk fishes and crocodiles. Despite all our efforts, we will never see one!
Unfortunately we are not in Arnarvon during the best season and will not see a turtle laying eggs but we will be the spectators of a turtle mating. The poor female has to cope with three very ardent males riding on her back. They absolutely ignored us and the dinghy was merely one meter away from the show. Before our departure, we are lucky enough to assist to the hatching of Hoxbills turtle. This is an unforgettable experience.

We promised to visit Peava and Kavolavata before leaving the Solomon Islands and we have to go as our visas are soon expiring. We are greeted by our usual friends. Kelsi has been working on a big "Spirit of Solomon" representing Marc spearfishing a kingfish (Spannish mackerel).
On our way to Ghizo, we stop in Noro (tuna fishing port) for a refuelling operation. Since the hose is too short, the boys (Marc and Kelsi) need to fill, roll and empty 12 barrels (250 litres each) of diesel by hand into our tanks. Marc's face is partially burned after siphoning diesel the entire afternoon. We reach Ghizo safely to enjoy our last week in the Solomon.
Comments
Vessel Name: Chasse Spleen
Vessel Make/Model: 71' Salthouse Motorsailer (NZ)
Hailing Port: Kingstown - St Vincent & Grenadines
Crew: The Besson-Mackain
About: MARC : Skipper, Papa, Mr Grumpy. CONSTANCE : Head crew - Mummy, Cook, Head Teacher, Hostess. ALEXIS & NICOLAS : Midships - 9 and 7 years old - The "Pirates".
Extra: Steel & aluminium, 4 doubles. 250 HP + 2 X 16 Kwa. 30hp 12' dinghy. 3 diving equipments, compressor.

Chasse Spleen

Who: The Besson-Mackain
Port: Kingstown - St Vincent & Grenadines