Still perfect!!!
04/16/2013, Panjachel, Guatemala

Our whirlwind trip to Tikal and Belize. We rode 14 hours on the bus to get to the island town of Flores, Guatemala. The air conditioning on the bus was not working so it was a long hot ride. When we got to our hotel in Flores the room was hotter and it was supposed to have air. So not much sleep that night. Up the next morning looking for another inexpensive hotel with AIR. We had to delay a day because the only buses leaving for Belize leave at 5am and after our 14hr hell ride we were not getting up at 5. We went to Belize first rather than heading up to Tikal which is only 1hr from Flores as it was going to continue to be hot (like a 100 degrees) for a few days then cool off. So off to Belize at 5am after spending another night in Flores. We made it to Belize City at 1pm. As had been told to us there is not much to see there but we opted for a horse and buggy ride around the town. Our driver was Godfrey who told us about his 5 kids he supports driving the buggy, funny and a nice guy, tough way to pay the bills. We were supprised by the lack of infrastructure and obvious poverty. We did not make it to the capital and expect it might look a little different. We decided on a whim to fly to Dangriga instead of another bus and it was fun flying over the water. We arrived in Dangriga and wanted to go to Hopkins which was another 45 min ride. Yes we spent alot of time traveling but it's what you have to do if you want to see the country. We finally made it to Hopkins and much to our dismay it wasn't exactly what we had in mind. We stayed at Palmento Grove which the taxi driver found for us. Our little cabana was not half bad it did have air but we did not need it as it rained all night long. Our cabana was water front too, if you count the drainage ditch which drains the swamp nearby (with crocks in it). In the morning we had fish for breakfeast just like the fish we had cooked for us for dinner. We decided after the sun came out we would walk to the beach. As we headed down the "road" dirt with lots of mud puddles, we continued on past the junk car's and garbage. Getting to the water the beach was litterd with plastic bottle's and other junk. To it's credit it was facinating to see how these verypoor people lived with many in little 20 x 20 shacks on stilt's. Finally we did find a nice part of the beach where someone was obviously picking the garbage and had ranked out the sand, cool little cabana's right on the beach, a little more like what we had invisioned. We did not have a cell so called our friendly taxi on the computor and got the hell out of there. Cought another small comuter plane back up the Belieze City and then out to Key Kocker. We should have just come straight here first, but what the hell. We stayed in another cabana but this time right on the beach with crystal clear water. It rained during the night so again did not need air. Key Kocker is a funkyt sleepy little place without the big hotels found up in San Pedro the major key in Belieze. I wished we had more time as I would really would have liked to dive here. But We had to get back by to the clinic so headed off again but this time on a water ferry for a 45min ride to the City. We cought a bus early and were off back to Guatemala. At the boarder we got our new 90 day visa which was one of the reasons for the trip. Our new bus was a little tough as the seats were worn out but in had AIR! We got a nice motel for the night and headed up to Tikal in the morning. We were a little afraid that Palanque might have spoiled it for us as it was amazing, but when saw our first pyramid we forgot those thoughts. Tikal is different than Palanque, the pyramids are taller and more vertical. We spent four hours walking the site wishing we had a guide. Tikal is huge and we were worn out after that time. Our highlight was going to the top of temple four. At the top you are about the jungle canopy and can see for miles. We had to make a bus in Flores so got underway and cought a red eye back to Guatemala City. We arrived at five am and it was to early for van service. So we got a "chicken Bus" and endearing term for the old school buses used by the locals to get around. you can't beat the price but to say they are crowded is a vast understatement. We got to share our granola bars with the family of five sitting behind us as they had one sandwich for all of them to share. We got back to our appartment Saturday so had Sunday to wind down. Back to the clinic monday morning having had another awsome adventure

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perfect 60-80
03/20/2013, Panjachel, Guatemala

We have been working hard at the clinic. We see many patients daily and are backed up with no appointments available for a couple weeks. Our work is very satisfying and when we walk home at night we feel that maybe we might have done a little of what God would have us do. We are treating a young girl with severe scoliosis, a 6yo with a badly healed arm fracture who also needed a foot brace which I made with what materials that I could get my hands on. We have a young man with burns and an open wound, many diabetics who have or are at risk for foot ulcers. Backs, necks, knees and shoulders and a very wide variety of other patients. We work closely with Dr. De Pena next door (in the picture). Our patients are extremely grateful for the care we give them which is very humbling.The mother in the picture broke down crying when we helped her daughter who had had polio as a child. I have been trying to contact physical therapy schools in the US who might want to take over the clinic when we leave as we would hate for it to just close. We are also trying to find surgical options for a few patients who are in need, and so have been writing letters on their behalf. Additonally I am trying to get an article published about our work here in hopes of doing some fund raising. Dr De Pena was out of basic meds like antibiotics when we got here. We were able to raise some funds to buy some meds for him. We took a quick trip down to El Salvador to check on the boat which we found was doing just fine. We stayed the night on the boat, which seemed strange. Our little boat had brought us all this way safely and we left her all by herself while we go off to exploring, just doesn't seem right. We had dinner with friends at Bahia Del Sol then the next morning headed back up to Pana. We were able to take a trip accross the lake to another one of the villages, San Pedro and did some more exploring. It's always cool to walk around in a place you have never been. Next week is Holy Week so we will close the clinic and take a week long trip up to Tikal (another archeological site) and then up to Belize. This is the first vacation we have taken since opening the clinic. We just bought a new scooter so we can get around to check out more of the country. We plan to sell the scooter in two months to our Dr De Pena so it will cost us less to have the scooter than if we rented it and this way it's brand new! We feel at home here in Panajachel and like other ex-pat's here it would be easy to get stuck here. We plan to stay until the end of May then fly home for the summer (we have one graduation and a wedding to attend) coming back to El Salvador next October to continue south to Ecuador. It's going to be strange to be back in the States after almost two years down here. If you would like to help us in our work here send us an e-mail and we will let you know how. (cdavidscee@msn.com) Stay tuned for more adventure.

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nice and cool 60-80
02/11/2013, Lake Atitlan/Panajachel

As usual we have been busy. We left El Salvado for Guatemala leaving our little home Chrysalis II on a mooring with someone watching it. We took everything of the top of the boat that could be easily stolen and stuffed and hid them inside the boat. Catching a water taxi we headed out with our two backpacks and three bags. We share a taxi ride up two San Salvador (the capital of El Salvador). Staying the night we caught a bus out of the city at 2pm. This put us into Guatemala city at 7pm (in the dark). We had planned to take the 6am bus out of San Salvador but it was booked.while in San Salvador waiting for the bus we met 5 guys from Finland who ended up riding on the same bus as us. Guatamala City is BIG and a little scary in the dark. We had heard plenty of horror stories of tourists being accosted here. The guys asked us if we would like to take their shuttle with them to the hotel they were staying at. They didn't have to ask us twice! The hotel had a guard at the door with a shotgun, as do most in Central America. The next morning we went on a little walk up the Mc Donalds for a coffee and breakfast. Things looked little less intimidating in the daylight. There are supposed to be many museums in the city, maybe we might come back and check them out but for now we were off to our next stop Antigua. And it just so happened that that the guys from Finland were going our way and so off we went with our new found friends. Antigua was founded in the 1500's with many colonial buildings and it is one of Guatemala's tourist destinations (yes they have tourisum here). We had to wait for a few hours for our next bus (large van) so walked around, with the boys from Finland, Antigua for a while. Stopped and had coffee and even ran into a couple we had met in San Cristobal, Mexico. We will come back here on a weekend to check it out, but for now we were off to Panajachel (Pana Ha Chell). We had to climb to over 8,000 feet to get over the mountains coming into Pana. Coming into Pana (in the daylight) we checked into a hostel for $20 night. The hostel had a bed, private shower, toilet paper and seat (always a plus) and even had a TV with lots of Gringo channels (in English). The only problema was the huge Rooster next door. After our first night we went and found the Mayan Families headquarters. They told us to come back on Wednesday to start doing diabetic screenings and foot checks. That day we also started setting up a make shift physical therapy clinic. We started with four bare walls and a couple chairs. By the end of the day we found a treatment table and a couple chairs. We treated 5 patients the first day. The next day we found a few more items for the "clinic" and treated 8 patients. We have now been open for two weeks and see 12 patients a day (8 hours). When we agreed to come up the Mayan Families we thought we would be working in the wood shop (me) and Leiann in the preschool. But when they heard that I had a degree in physical therapy and Leiann was trained as a LPN and had a masters in social work they changed their minds and asked us to set up a clinic. After three days in the hostel we found an apartment in a good location for $300 a month furnished! So we have been quite busy with moving and setting the clinic. Last weekend we got to take R&R so we took a boat over across the lake. There several little towns around the lake (Atitlan). So we plan to vist them all in time. I will go back to El Salvador on the 28th to check up on our little boat. Well that's what been going on. Best wishes to all and if you vist this site please leave us a comment so we know you've been. Also our e-mail address is cdavidscee@msn.com. Later

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Leiann/Sunny with Clouds
02/03/2013, Panajachel, Guatemala

Seriously? Couldn't believe it had been almost a month since our last blog. I have no idea how I will ever catch up without writing a book. We spent the better part of January checking out the area surrounding Bahia Del Sol. First though we put the boat on a mooring and got back into the habit of taking the dinghy in. The nice thing is that we do get to go to the dock so no dinghy dunkings for me. Yeah! We spent quite a few days at pooside with other cruisers until we left to head out for Guatemala. Pretty much just eating and drinking and sight seeing. Isn't that what life is all about? We met Andy and Rebecca from Wisconsin and pretty much spent their entire vacay with them. We talked them into going to San Salvador in a van with another cruiser couple. While the other couple was doing their "boat stuff" we toured the Central area of the town. We went to a large original government building and learned a little history. We went to the local people's market and Dave and I got our haircut for $4, total. It was a great haircut too. Then we went to a pupuseria and had a pupusa, the national food of El Slavador. While there the lady that cut our hair showed up with the book I had left at ther shop. How she found us is beyond us because we were quite a ways from her shop. Just another example of how helpful and nice the Salvadorians are. We had ice cream, not once but twice just because we could. The next expedition we went on was to Zacate (complete spelling of name in previous blog) on the chicken bus. The vendors were still around but this time we had someone preaching to the crowd, I mean literally preaching from his bible. We took them to the market , to the pupuseria we ate at previously, and then stopped in Santiago where we got Tuk-Tuk's for a race around the town. Lots of laughter and Dave even got to drive. But not for long cuz he drove to rapido so the driver took over. We ate dinner with them every night and they taught us how to play Kin's Corner and we taught them how to play Catch Phrase. We enjoyed hanging with them and were sad to see them go. One very nice thing that happened while they were there was Andy speaking to a couple with a duaghter that had disabilities. Andy is a Shriner and he gave them information so they could check into getting help through Shriner's. They were very grateful as they spend thousands regularly for her. That week was action packed and it was hard to get back into doing nothing. Ok we did more than nothing, we always do. One day we tried to go to La Herradura which is 4 miles up the Estuary. I talked Dave into going straight though and not turning right so we went 7 miles jup instead and didn't find La Herradura. And 7 miles in our dinghy with our 2 horsepower engine is an adeventure in itself. We did go into a mangrove "driveway" (that''s water) and parked the dinghy, paid the kids there to watch it and went trekking up the road to see what we could find. We found a place to buy guacamole ingredeinets, had a drink and ice cream and went back to the dinghy. When we got back to the dinghy, yes we were a tad worried it wouldn't be there, we were relieved to find it still there. Not only was it still there but the kids were sitting on another boat right next to it "watching it". Awesome. Another day we finally did make it to La Herradura and rode another Tuk-Tuk to see the town. Pretty much the same as other towns. We did however meet some folks from California that were visiting a friend in El Salvador and they invited us to come stay with them in Santa Ana. Complete strangers wanting you to stay with them, go figure. We couldn't though so went back to our little boat in Bahia. There was a potluck good-bye for some cruisers heading south one night and Dave made his infamous guacamole. It was, of course, a hit. Now mind you this isn't a little bowl of guac but about a quart and a half. Not a drop left and nothing but raves from the crowd, again. He's becoming the guac king for sure. So this is just some of what we do when we are somewhere and I am leaving some things out but don't want to bore anyone so will more for later.

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Dave/88 clear skies
01/06/2013, Bahia Del Sol Marina Hotel

We had light winds most of the way down the coast and out of the wrong direction so had to motor most of the way (whats new). We did have a few hours when the wind started to kick up before getting to Del Sol that we were able to shut off the engine and sail in quiet (always nice). But alas just before we got there the winds got up to high to keep the mainsail up and had to motor sail with the storm jib up to make headway as the wind was right on the nose. When we did get to the bar it was too late to cross so had to anchor out in open ocean for the night. We had a good night but woke to having a fishermans net wraped around us. They came over and tried to get the net off us but finally I had to dive under and unwrapp the net off the keel and rudder. Finally at 8am the jet ski came out to escort us over the sand bar. Leiann had dreded this moment for some time as she had seen pictures of boats surfing big wave to get in. I had her put in the drop boards and stand in the companion way so see could see and be able to respond to the radio as it is down stairs. I put on my harness and life jacket. We had closed all hatches ,windows and made sure everything on deck was tied down securely. At last we had a breaking wave behind us the boat sped up and started surfing at 6 or 7 knots and then it was gone and we were over the bar! All a little anticlimatic but much preferable to wrough crossing some have had. We got checked in with customs, imagrations and quarntine. Got to know some of the other cruisers at the resort marina and tried to get the inside dope on the place. After finding the rates high at the marina $540 a month for our little 29 footer we have decided to go out on a mooring at $100. This will mean that we will have to dingy in to shower or go to the pool but will leave us with funds to travel inland. On our first day we took a walk out of the resort and start checking things out. Apon reaching the black top road we were a little shooked to see a herd of cows coming up the road. We had to wait for them and then followed up behind. We have been told this is normal, and will also see pigs herded up the road as well. No horses, just a guy behind with a stick. The next day we got on one of local buses and headed up to the closest town, Zacatalucaco. The bus ride as expected was a riot. packed to capacity (always room for one more). Then every few miles or blocks the driver would blow the horn to let the people ahead know the bus was coming. At any little village many venders would come on the bus trying to sell there home baked goods and what ever else there think they might be able to sell, pens, candy, CDs, pop etc. At one point we had 15 - 20 winding down the the aisles trying out yell each other. Getting Zacatalucaco (hense forth Zacati or Z town) we got out and started walking looking for the ATM that is supposed to be here. The town was rather dirty and corwded. Nearly every side walk was packed with folks trying to sell something. One of the differences we notice fom Mexico was every women seller wore a lacey apron form which they made there chang. Apperently this is a national dress item and very colorful. We braved going into the market which looked a little scary. An entire street (streets) filled with little booths with all the roofs, some cardboard, covering each other. This made it more like going down tunnels than aisles. Of course we were the only "gringos insight and were a sorce of interest and amusement to the locals, probably wondering where did the gringos come from and what are they doing here. You could find anything at this market from bull head fish six inches long to underware which Leiann bought for a $2.50 a piece. So here we are on day three getting ready to go put the boat on the mooring but thought we would update the blog first. Stay tuned

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Dave/awesome
12/19/2012, One hour from San Cristobal

Ok here we go on our tour of what we call the chicken church. So called, as we were told to go there because of the interesting mix of Mayan and Catholic religions involving chicken sacrifice. We were taken to another church nearby and we were warned about the children wanting us to take a "photo" with them for 10 pesos. As soon as we got off the bus we were surrounded by women and children in traditional dress repeating photo, photo. We explored the church which was interesting but typical early Spanish Catholic (1600's) and we are getting a bit jaded given how many we have seen. So afterwards we took pictures with all the children (how can you pick) then handed out 10 peso coins. We have a difficult time with this, as wherever you go in Mexico (any third world) it never stops, hands out asking for a peso. We give as much as we can but have to draw the line somewhere. It's just impossible to pass an 80 year old blind woman or a child with snot running down their nose with a hand out. So we finally get to the the Chicken Church. Built in 1524, which is amazing when you think that the Spanish didn't get here until 1521. We were told not to stand in front of people praying, not to take pictures and to be quiet and respectful and that the people here are really praying and not putting on a tourist show. First of all there are no pews in the church, people sit on the floor. The floor is covered with a type of cedar leaves. Along the walls are all, and I mean all, the saints. A family volunteers to take care of one of the saints for a year and then passes the batton to someone else. In front of each saint (nearly life size, 4 ft tall) is a table covered with candles burning. The family taking care of the saints washes the saint's clothes and even takes him out for a walk once a year (on a table with four handles). People are on the floor in groups of two and three's and one large family. We are told people come here for healing and that these people are praying for someone who is sick or in need. There are healers there who for 100 pesos will take your pulse to determine if something is wrong with you and if there is, will pray for you to get better or to stay well if nothing is wrong. If someone is really sick they believe it is because of an evil spirit has taken up residence. So to get rid of the sucker they will light candles and pray, chant and if that does not do it they will take and egg and pass it around you so the spiirt will enter the egg after which it is broken and cannot be eaten. Then if you still have the bad guy in there they bring out the whole damn chicken and pass it around your body, extracting the bad spirit and then they kill the chicken. It also cannot be eaten because you will ingest the bad spirit and get sick. We left the church and headed over to another small town and saw a demostration of weaving and traditonal cooking on a fire. We also got to dress up in the wedding finery that they traditionally wear. Check us out in the photo gallery. On our way back to San Cristobal there was a road block. Apparently a rebel group called the Zapatistas staged a rebellion over the mistreatment of the local indigenous people (Mayan decendant's). The goverment agreed to demands so a truce was established, only latter the goverment reniged on the deal hence the roadblock, trying to draw attention to their plight. One just never knows what one will see on this venture called our life.

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