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Chrysalis Adventures
Acapulco
HOT 80-90
05/08/2012, Acapulco

After leaving Zee Wat we had 200 miles to get to Acapulco. We had our buddy boat (Epiphany) tagging along with us, this meant two nights at sea. We had a nice cruise down without any difficulty. Lots of dolphins,(see Leiann's pic of dolphin tailwalking in next post) sea turtles, jelly fish and one whale. On both nights at sea we had a strange occurrence. The first night while being 12 miles off shore not one but two butterflies came inside the cabin stayed the night and left the next morning. Then the next night another one did the same thing. Now if you think of what the odds are of having this occur 12 miles off shore, add to that a boat named Chrysalis that has two butterflies painted on the side, seems like a sign aaaay. We came into Acapulco in the morning. It's a very large bay with craggy rocks and breaking waves on either side of the entrance. As we rounded into the bay it was amazing how deep it was, this makes it a challage to anchor. We need between 15 - 40 feet depth to anchor safely (5 to 1 scope). We could not find a place to anchor. The yacht club had said they did not have any vacant mooring and wanted $100 a night at their dock, which we cannot afford. We cruised around looking for a place to light. The other marina had space but we could not raise them on the radio to get a price. Finally we found what looked to be an unsued mooring ball and we figured what's the worst they can do, ask us to leave?. We spent two nights on the mooring and got the dinghy in the water and went over to the yacht club where Epiphiny was staying the night. All of us walked around a bit then me and Leiann got taxi and went and foound the town square. After a delightful evening we headed back to the boat for the night. The next morning we took the dink over to the other marina to find out what they charged. They told us that they were under construction so would let us stay for $37 a night! However we were not supposed to use the pool but they would make an exception for us because we were so nice. Back to the boat with the dink, and back to the dock with Chrysalis. After getting all paperwork done and fee's paid we headed up to the pool which we had all to our self. The view from the pool of the harbour was amazing we have to pinch ourselves from time to time to see if we are really here.(some of you might have seen the pics on FB) We spent most of the next day at the pool waiting for Michael and Diana(from Epiphiny) to come over to this marina. They got their in the late afternoon. We hung at the pool for a while longer than got a taxi over to see the cliff divers. We had an amazing evening having dinner and watching these brave hombres (men in espanol) dive from the cliff. If you don't know about divers they have to time there dive with the surging swell to make sure that they don't hit the bottom only fifteen feet deep (if you time it right!). We were approached by two of the divers after the show(they looked so young) and they asked us if we enjoyed the show we said yes and gave them a good tip. The divers are not paid, they only get what they recieve in tips! We also got a floor show included with the price of dinner, traditional Mexican and an Aztec dance depictng a hunter and deer. Our vist to Acapulco was over six nights and we tried to see as much as we could in that time so enough for now, more in the next post.

08/05/2012 | Mike Montchalin
Hopefully some butterfly enthusiast will post what kind of butterfly those are. Maybe that is your totem?
Zee Wat to Acapulco
Dave / nice 76-85
04/30/2012, same

After leaving Zee town we just went down the coast to Petalan Bay, spent the night then headed out for Papanoa, not too much to write about Petalan. Papanoa on the other hand was a rewarding experience. We dropped anchor, got the dink in the water and headed into the town (what little of one that there was). We were again greeted by a couple kids (they figured out how to work this). After paying them 5 pesos each (which they immediately took off to the tienda (store) for candy, go figure) we started our exploration. We were again immediately affected by the abject poverty these people (fishing co-operative) were living in. Houses made of what could be found cheap, boards, coragated tin or tar paper and with dirt floors, out side toilets (hole with drapes around a stick structure), light bulb hanging from a wire, garbage everywhere. You get the idea, yet most welcomed us with smiles and returned our greetings of buenos tardes or hola (good afternoon or hi). We stopped at the first tienda (store)(shack of a store), wanting to contribute to the local economy. The next store was only 30 feet further so we felt bad that we could not buy something from them also. We figured when we come back we'll find something to buy. We try to spend some money with the people who need it. Walking through town housing was rough as well as dirt roads and more garbage. We saw this at Man of War village back up on the Baja, also a fishing village. But if you think of it, if you grew up surrounded by garbage you too would consider that normal. I can remember throwing fast food empty bags out the window along the road (before plastic, man I guess that makes me old) everbody did it, it was normal. Then we walked around looking for a place to eat and not sure where we should. This little tiny village had about 7 restaurants so we walked by each one and finally chose Richar'ds (yes the spelling is how it was) and that is where we had pescado frito or deep fried fish. Some of you saw the pics on FB, others will have to check out our photo gallery. We stayed a couple days and our friends on Epiphany showed up and talked us into walking to the other side of the town. Glad we did as we found a beautiful beach and more restaurants and even a hotel. You never know what you are going to find around the corner, or over the hill in this case. That's the surf behind Dave in the pic, and it looks small here but it was HUGE! Dave and I decided to go for a walk and we left Michael and Diana at the beach and took off. As we have found in Mexico there is alot of poverty and alot of wealth. This town however was more poverty and middle class. Of course that is our interpretation and these folks just might take offense at our perspective. However we found what looked to be hotels that were crumbling down and were not liveable, by our standards. There were two older men that were living in two different places. Both were happy and smiling and wanting to share with us. Too bad we still haven't got the language down. The one old gentleman was walking with a machete. No small one either. When I questioned him about it he literally showed me how he walks through the brush and cuts a path before him. Again you just never know what you might find just by taking a walk. Our first night in Papanoa I heard massive splashing outside and when I got up to look I saw a spectacular sight. There were fish jumping out of the water all ove the bay due to being chased by bigger fish. Not an unusual sight as we have found out. We have taken to calling it boiling fish. This night however the phospherescents were a minty green color and the whole anchorage was a show of color that I can't even begin to describe. Another one of Mother Nature's way of showing us that we have a beautiful world to live in, just look out your backdoor, or in this case the companion way!

08/05/2012 | Mike Montchalin
re: The abject poverty of Papanoa (& the other side of town)
I wonder why some places are prosperous and others are not? That is the same question Adam Smith asked, and tried to answer, in his Wealth of Nations."

In the case of Papanoa, the fishing village, maybe they were inefficient fishermen? Maybe, and more likely, they lacked good opportunities to trade their catch.

Trade makes everybody better off. I am reminded of when you traded batteries for lobster tails. Wow! Everybody came out ahead!!

I sympathized with you wanting to contribute to Papanoa's economy. "Just giving money." is not the answer. Buying things you need and want is the step in the right direction.

I wondered, " What if you payed people to pick up garbage?" That fits in with 'what you want.' But there is something in that, that grates against my soul. And besides, the place would return to its natural state in short order.
More Zee Wat
still nice
04/29/2012, yep

Well we were in Zee Wat for 10 days so alot happened, too much for one blog. Jane (Leiann's long time friend and mine too) came to visit us in Zee Wat. So this is why we wanted to find a nice but authentic place for her and us to stay. Elvira's was all that. The oldest resturant/hotel/casa in Zee town. Our room for the first couple day's had no hot water, cost us $12.50 a night was clean, comfortable, and right on the beach. Add to that we included by the family in daily life most of whom spoke little english. Our stay there will stay in our minds for a long time. The third night we moved up to the suite (with hot water) two queens size bed's (although a little hard, most Mexican bed's are) all for an amazing $18.00 a night! We had a geat time with Jane, wanting to show a blend of nice clean, up town restuarants and the gritty "real Mexico". At one point we took her to the Crocodile (Coco-Dril-lee-o) refuge. You can check out the croc's in a semi contained area (although scary). I found that on the other side of the bridge were also croc's in true natural state unrestrained in the river! So I had to go check it out. I found a trail that lead right down to the river through real jungle. I went back over and got the girls away from the "Tourista" exibit. I eagerly led them down this off the travel brochure find. As we made it down the trail Leiann yells out O My God I stepped in shit! We all looked at our feet and all of us had shit on our shoe's (make that sandal's). Ahhhhhh the girls were out of there. We had to go back over to the beach to wash our feet. The girls felt that they had had enough ethnic experiences for the day. Jane hung at the local coffee shop on the beach in the mornings as we tend to get up late and go to bed late also. We tried to show Jane a good time again blending the new (neuvo) Ixapa and the old authentic Mexico the barrio (where the worker bee's live). We had her on the beach under palapa's one day and in the street on plastic chairs another. We think she had a good time and we were happy to have her come vist us. After Jane left we moved back on Chrysalis, provisioned and headed out for our next port only 30 miles south which is "Petalan".

Zihuatanejo
Dave / nice 76-85
04/28/2012, Zee town

We got into Zee wat at 6pm but Leiann wanted to go into shore after our nearly two hundred miles and two nights at sea. We got the anchor down and dinghy in the water. We went over to another boat at anchor and got the skinny on landing the dink and where to eat. As told we were met at the beach by a boy who ran out into the water to help us get our dinghy to shore without getting wet. We gave him 10 pescos, the standard fee to watch our dinghy. We then began our typical walk around town to get our bearings (standard routine). We found somewhere to eat (Ta Ta's on the beach). We put our feet in the sand and watched the sun go down while we had drinks (Leiann Margarita, Me Fresca). We had a very nice (well deserved) meal over looking the bay and our little home Crysalis II, amazed and grateful she had brought us all this way. The next day we were getting ready to go to shore and the boat next to us said that a big swell was coming and to put out a stern anchor, I immediately got into action. Before I finished getting the stern anchor tight here came huge 10 foot swells, lifting the boat high and then dropping into the next trough. I kept pulling on the stern anchor trying to keep the bow into the waves, but the anchor would not set and kept coming in. Finally we heard a loud bang, Leiann said what was that, I said I don't know then noticing the bow coming around I raced forward to see the bow anchor rode (rope) had broke. This is pretty amazing as our chain (5/16) was secured by two 3/4 inch dacron rodes (a bridle) then the chain is attached to a 5/8 inch rode. All of which broke as I had hauled in on the stern anchor! I ran back to the cockpit and fired up the engine. The only thing that was keeping us off the beach was the stern anchor and as I said it was dragging. Leiann took the helm as I struggled to get the stern anchor up. We were off, safely heading out of the anchorage. We took the baot over to the other side of the anchorage where the swell could not affect us. I put out the only anchor we now had and headed back over to town to see if we can find a diver to recover our anchor. I had seen a dive center when we were out walking around. We went over to a hotel/resturant/home (the oldest on the beach)that we had seen earlier (more later on Casa Elvira later). Anyway the restautant owner introduced us to his son (who spoke fluent english and was in the US Army) who then took us over to a charter boat owner who helped us find a diver. I know this is hard to follow but these people to did not know us from us adam and understood our dilemma of a loss of our precious anchor and 100ft of 5/16 chain (very difficult to get in Mexico). The divers, who were local octopus fisherman who were resisent to try to dive in the current surf, because of very poor visability and d not wanting to waste our money, finally agreed to try for one hour @ 1000 pecos ($80 deal). So one boat, me, two divers, a compressor, and another boat air hose handler. All for $80, wow. After 45min I was really beginning to lose hope, then up one came with the chain. None of these guys spoke english at all, so I'm in the boat with them when my precios anchor comes on board I told them I could KISS them. The head guy holds his hands up says no kiss, no kiss. We didn't have anymore trouble with our anchoring for the rest of our time at Zee Wat.

04/30/2012 | Vicky
Dave, I hope you are still working on the idea of your book 'cause you sure do a great job of telling your stories AND have GREAT stories to tell!!!
04/30/2012 | Dave
Thanks big sis. I enjoy writing and hope people enjoy and get a laugh now and then. Experiencing somthing sailing around the world or skiing, what ever is so much more rewarding if you get to share it with others.
Update since Chamela
Leiann/ Hot and Sunny
03/30/2012, Zihuatanejo or just Zihau

We have been trying to learn Spanish while on this trip and have added quite a few new words to our repitore however one thing that is challenging, besides learning the language, is learning to spell and pronounce the places we visit. Our next stop was Tenacatita where we stayed for two days. This bay is also known as the "Aquarium" however it wasn't so while we were there because the waters were murky and not much to see. We did do our regular exploring though and on one side of the shore is the usual palapa with food and drink and on the other side is the Blue Bay All Inclusive Hotel. The best of this bay were the sea turtle nests that were by the hotel. This is actually a large cage where the turtles eggs are kept by the locals in order to preserve the ever endangered sea turtles. While taking a break at the beach by the hotel.....ok we kind of snuck in....I went to use the banos (bathroom for you non Spanish speaking folks) and I came upon a little pool filled with little baby sea turtles. It was an awesome sight but you will just have to imagine it cuz someone forgot to bring the camera! We left Tenatacita and sailed (yeah) around the bay over to La Manzanilla where they have houses literally built on the side of the hill and we did have the camera to get pics of these. Then we left to go to Cuastecomte aka the Secret Anchorage but since it's in a guide book it's not such a secret anymore. There were three other boats already there when we got in and we decided to wait until the next day before traveling in to the surfy shore. Now I thought that I was getting dang good at getting out of the dinghy while the surf is following you in but it seems this time I wasn't so lucky. Dave has a routine of what we are supposed to do once we hit the beach and my job is to grab the painter (rope tied to dinghy) and keep the boat straight so the waves don't wash over us. Well for whatever reason I didn't get that far before a wave, and these aren't little waves, washed over us and turned the dinghy upside down. This is not a great position for the engine to be in but even more so I was now under the dinghy and the painter was wrapped around my legs. Most of you know how much I like water so this was my moment to learn NOT TO PANIC! Ok so I did a little but I knew my hubby would be my hero and that I wasn't going to succumb to the seas, not to mention I was in 2 ft of water. Obviously I survived but the good news is I have become an expert at getting to shore through the surf.....of course with my husband's help! We left Cuastecomate and got to Melaque next. I wanted to go here because our guidebook talked about Chippy the dolphin that hung out in the bay and would come say hello to you. Sad to say chippy wasn't around while we were there. The good news though is that our friends from Cricket, Pat & Lynn, were. So the first night we had dinner on their boat with them which was excellent as usual. We met Pat & Lynn way back in Magdelena Bay and spent Thanksgiving with them. They are awesome hosts! Then the next day our other friend Greg from Foreign Affair showed up in the anchorage so we all had dinner again on Cricket. Thank you Pat and Lynn!! So to reciprocate and because our boat is too small for company I took over Greg's boat and made dinner for everyone there. We had papas locas which are basically baked potatoes with cheese, steak, la crema or cream and salsa! They are great and fun to make! To recipricate for the use of Greg's boat Dave climbed the mast to help Greg with a problem at the tip top of the mast. Pic included. Dave decided we needed to go over to the lagoon on the other side of the bay and check it out so we went over to Barra de Navidad Lagoon and hung out at the Sand's Hotel where for buying drinks we could use the pool and showers. Dave here: We ended up spending 8 days between Melaque and Barra Navadad (they are 3 miles apart. The lagoon in Barra is very protected from sea swell but not from wind and we had some. We enjoyed going into the Sands Hotel and just hagging around the pool while we stayed in the lagoon. We also explored the little town of Barra de Navidad. We then went back over to Malaque and hung out with our friends, and watched amazing fireworks to celebrate St. Patricks Day. We told you they find any reason to have yet another party (celebration) in Mexico! We finally left Malaque/Barra and our friends to head south. We don't know if we will ever meet these people again so it is sad to leave them, but more adverture awaits. Our next stop was only 20 miles south at a little bay called Carrizal this bay was reknowed for it's snorkeling. However when got there the water was very cloudy and cold so after a night there we headed out the next afternoon for Las Hadas. Hadas is a resort that was one of the first of it's kind in Mexico. Built in the mid sixties it is showing it's age but still a very cool place. Looking up from the water the buildings are bright white cubicals with domed tops so they look like Mediteranian/Moorish design (see pics). We hung out at the pool some and walked (sneaked ) through the place even snuck into a top floor suite that was open for cleaning just to check it out. We were actually lost trying find a ATM that we were told was at the front of the Hotel. The next day we got on a bus and rode all around and over to Mazanillo and even into the barrio (Leiann was a little nervous) but we were in broad daylight and never felt threatened. We like to get off the tourist path and see some of real Mexico that they don't show you in the travel brochures. After three days we left Las Hadas / Mazanillo (again 3 miles apart) for Zihuatanejo (Zee Watinaho.) This was a two night 190 mile trip. We then arrived at Zihuatanejo where we ended up staying for 10 days.

Corrientes to Chamalia
82 degree's/sun/overcast/ nice
03/19/2012, Navidad Lagoon

We are currently in in Bahia Navidad lagoon. We had a pretty bumpy ride down from Banderas Bay. We had no problems coming around the infamous Punta Corrientes, however when we got 20 miles south 5 miles off Ipala bay holy hell broke loose with 30 knots of wind and 8 ft breaking sea's. I would not let Leiann in the cockpit as it was just to dangerous and she was sick as a dog anyway, rough night for me. At one point I was doing 8 knots with no sails up! At that point I hove to for the next 4 hours before continuing on to Chamela Bay. We met our old friends Bonnie and Kevin on "Kist". It was a great having a meal with them on their boat and walking around town and hanging out at the hotel pool together. Both of us got good dunkings on the beach with the dinghies. When we both headed out to the boats for they last time the surf was huge at 4-5ft. We watched the local Mexican fisherman who knew the surf like the back of their hand, they waited and waited then went out with no problems. So after studying the surf from the resturant over several drinks (me Fresca) we finally decided to give it a go. We both had our dinghies in the water with one person on each of the dink. We patiently waited for the surf to pause for a moment. Finally getting what we thought was our best chance we headed out as fast as we could and then jumped on board and franticlly trying get the motor to start before the next wave series starts, the outboard fired up and we were out past the break. Now Bonnie and Kevin were still in the process. Bonnie on the oars pulling hard (me yelling Go Bonnie Go). Finally Kevin got the out board going after some difficulty and then they too were safe out side the break! We said our final goodbyes to Kist not knowing if we will ever see them again but they live in Bellingham so most likely we will as some point. Thanks you guys for feeding us it was great hanging with you! More to come later.

03/19/2012 | Bonnie
I don't think we'll be able to find anyone as encouraging for our adventures but we'll keep trying. I do hope our paths cross at some point in the future even if it is in Bellingham Bay! Safe Sails you two ;-)
03/22/2012 | mom
Maybe your high tide was from the earthquake from Mexico be careful. You are having such fun and adventures that I wish I were there.

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