The Abacos, we have learned, are split into two regions…the Northern and Southern Abacos. Green Turtle Cay has been home base for the first month and Joanne and I have really fallen in love with this area. However, there is much more action in the Southern Abacos, and we have picked today to make the feared passage through Whale Cay Cut.
How do you know it’s feared? It’s all anyone, who is about to make the passage, talks about. Any strong storms in the Atlantic, Northern winds or North East winds makes it generally un-passable. Raging seas enhanced by an outgoing tide just adds to the problem.
So, having really talked it up, we depart with our friends, Sue and John Hoffman, through the pass. Light easterly winds for two days have given us 4 foot seas…a no brainer. We are headed for Great Guana where we will enjoy the beautiful seven mile beach (pictured).
As we pulled up to the mooring field near Settlement Harbor, the owner of the moorings comes to the dock and yells, “no good…west winds tonight”. Our forecast said southerly winds, which was what we were experiencing. You quickly learn that, unlike the BVI’s where the winds are generally out of the east, the Bahamas circle…North, East, South and then West. There are few good anchorages for West winds, so people tend to head for cover, knowing a North front will be next.
The dive shop at Great Guana is well known in the area and provides excellent service to everyone. It was his mooring that he advised us to leave. It would have held, he would have made $20, but we would have rocked through the night.
So, we moved literally around the corner. Settlement Harbor has an excellent Marina, the Orchid Bay Yacht Club and Marina, with a great sea wall protecting the docks in all wind directions. We immediately walked around town, walked up to Nippers, the largest bar on the island. Nippers is your prototypical Caribbean Bar, but, overlooks a spectacular 7 mile Beach. Having checked out all the restaurants we decided on the Orchid Bay Yacht Club Cocktails outside with a sunset, followed by an excellent meal. The next day, we were off to 7 mile Beach, and a great walk with a picnic lunch.