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S.V Condesa Del Mar
23 meter Herrishoff Schooner built in Wilmington Boat Yard California 1970 onwards. Fittout completed mid 1990's. Mark and Jenny Gaskell purchased Conmdesa November 2011 and crossed the Pacific Ocean in 2012.
Jenny g
03/03/2012, La Paz Mexico

25kg each SR Flour , Plain FLour
Baking Powder, Bi carb soda
15kg Sugar
10 boxes each Kellogs Corn Flakes, Bran, Honey Smacks (if ever I see them again)
30 bags powdered Milk
15 pkts each Tortilla Wraps, Bread,
6 bags each Rice, Pasta, Vermicilli, Cous cous
10 lge tins of Gatoraide, iced tea
3 lge tins Coffee 10lge boxes Tea Bags
10 Boxes sweet Biscuits ,Salada, Rice crackers
10 bags salted nuts, plain nuts, rice crackers
THE LIST GOES ON - tomorrow will be canned goods....slowly chipping away

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How good!
03/03/2012, La Paz Mexico

I heard in a meeting from a more experienced 'Puddle Jumper' that we are, and I quote...."Going where people only smile" Now that... is a really exciting thought.~~~ (Imaging life going by where everyone smiled). I have been thinking about this ever since I heard the phrase, and wondering why. This business, of people only smiling day in and day out almost warrants making the list a wonder of the world. Surely it could be listed as a No. 8 - 'Natural' wonder.
I think that it is the 'tick of time' that winds everyone up, to the point of wringing that last grin from our faces. Over here in Mexico where the favourite saying is "Manana" which means 'maybe someday' and the 'maybe' is interpreted loosely, and yes... the 'someday' speaks for itself. For me, know it is February opps March, but as for the day, date, and on many occasion the time has become less and less relevant. Over here in the marina, and I dare say in the French Polynesia they/we (now) only talk in 'Seasons' there are only 2. So that in itself immediately makes life less stressful. There is the season when you sail and the season when you stay put. Here the Mexicans smile a lot also and are extremely helpful, no matter what dirty, crammed, or high flying, near impossible job you have got to achieve. Then again it could be that they know they will never see you again, so 'adios amigos' may be behind that smile, I know I would be thinking that if I was them.
The trades and services here are awesome and the prices cheap! Worthy of every cent we pay. The Taxi driver (Rafael) drives you any distance to the supermarket both near and far. He then waits patiently no matter how long you take. His little face shows up at the exact checkout you go to, then you find he is overseeing that the items are packed correctly. He insists on placing the bags in the trolley ...and insists on wheeling it out... and unloading again when we get to the car... and then again when you get your marina trolley! I looked behind me to see if he was following because I could have done with a hand up and over and down into the galley, but no he was on his merry way to drive another yachtie somewhere. Not that time was an issue, just she was there.
This is not random service with a smile.....The boy in the bike-hire shop; I didn't even buy my bike from him. He has been very generous with his time. Firstly, he sold me that cool seat for only 50 pesos, (less than $5) and then graciously fitted it for nothing. A day later I had the gall to swing by for another simple issue. Yet again - no payment required, he just smiled! See what I mean - how good!
The only way for this phenomenon to make it across the Pacific to Australia might be to abandon that ticking clock ...........perhaps I should just go visit where people only smile and do some more research. Stand by, oh! Make that 'manana' .

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The sweets

The pillion passanger heading off for the ride of his life

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The Adventurer
Jenny g

An unassuming Australian adventurer rumbled into town on his dust covered black motor bike with side car. He had driven through the Copper Cannon System, moving to the beat of his own drum and possibly the drums of the Tarahumara Indians. After seeing both the bike and him so dusty and weathered I decided to check the history of this expedition on Google ....and what a rugged wilderness passage it was for him!
He was in town checking in with us as potential crew, then planed to drive to Seattle to stow his bike and to visit to a few good people. Who he says helped him along his way. I googled his next trip from La Paz Mexico to Seattle America, and it too is a journey of huge mileage, not to mention the drop in temperature to 5 degrees. This ranks him as a serious adventurer and biker as well.
He spent 2 full days sorting, god only knows how much an adventurer has to sort after such an extensive trip for years through the wilderness. He then bunks his tired and dusty self into Mexican hostel accommodation close to our marina. He can't drift off to sleep for his weary body won't let him but takes much needed rest.
He chats to the people around him within and I suspect takes a marzipan sweet from an idle person in the hallway of the accommodation. He asks an idle person sitting in a wheelchair if he wants a ride in his bike up to the shops and when this was accepted with such delight, he then offers this disabled person a side-car ride to Seattle with him the next day - 'just for kicks' he said. However the adventurers' calendar already was hard pressed for time to be back within 3 was a tight turnaround. With his "should be fine" attitude he makes both space and time for another human being on his antique motor cycle.
We both felt this special adventurer warranted a wave off on his journey, so we head up to the car park in time to see his departure. As we approached the side-car we were offered a marzipan sweet by the disadvantaged pillion passenger. The still dust covered bike was loaded up to the hilt with the side car companions' trusty wheelchair strapped to the top - readily accessible. That grateful companion was sitting pretty with the box of sweets on his lap ready for the next person he will meet along the route north I suspect.
This is not my story to tell but just want to say that 'the adventurer' was going to be inspiring as a crew member aboard Condesa. The Pacific crossing will be just a part of his next expedition; it must be never ending adventures for people with the time and the respect for the world and what it has to offer. And I am sure the latest travelling companion who accompanied him on the ride north to Seattle in that side car had witnessed a rare act of kindness he would never have imagined being offered to him.
I looked forward to hearing more about the Indian tribes and their lives in the Copper Canyon region when we are drifting across the Pacific.
But sadly that day never came for either of us. RIP Dean

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The Bravo Markets
Jenny g
25/02/2012, La Paz

In the middle of the markets

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The Butcher
25/02/2012, Bravo Markets La Paz

Found the one I think I need

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Jenny g
25/02/2012, Bravo Markets La Paz

At last I found the markets I was looking for. You know the ones where there are people gabbling around you and bumping into you because they are more intent on their selection. The selection it seems warrants staring as it travels from the display into a bag onwards via the distant cashier and back through a few hands into their possession where they can relax and bury it deep into their trolley. Some people shop like a dog watching the dinner bowl their focus is so intent, I think that is why they must shop alone. I have he who hums in toe and not sure it was the right move.
I would like to try the mystery dishes served in the stalls and when I suggested it I think I saw him slightly regurgitate before he said "sure - didn't you have breakfast?" We move away from the slapping of the meat being tenderized and I perch on a stool where everyone is head down eating. I watch the girl clap the thin pastry from hand to hand, tacos made with the blink of an eye. This looks like the one for me, so I manage in my limited Spanish-for-cruisers to pick the fish dish and confidently wave my hand with a 'Si dos gracias' when asked if I wanted tacos too. He who'd hum would have been impressed if he hadn't been handed down the sentence to eat with me. I pass him the spoon and a taco but I do note from the corner of my eye he delays making his taco until I have started, swallowed and survived. There is no instantaneous combustion so all is well. We share a fresh juice, I agree with confidence to all the Spanish words she asked, I assumed were for fruit and vege (how could I go wrong).
We strolled around some more - me taking it all in, he thinking of a place he had to be. Got it! He soon states he had to get back to order the lettering for our new dingy. Oh ok. I walk him out from the dark den of bulk produce out into the white light of the street called Bravo. He is back on Saturday midday. Shame...
But I immediately return and head to the next isle where I am surprised to see a grotto of Mary immaculate, huh I guess you never know when you may want to drop to your knees in the middle of Saturday morning haggling, in fact I should! I have been left here alone my silent prayer was answered. I am sure he is humming all the way back to the Marine shop, as might I around the Bravo Markets and beyond.

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