This is the first half of the Louisiades story and was sent to some via email, the second half is in Blog 24.
The last Blog was posted from Townsville on 19 August and so this Blog will cover our trip to the Louisiades where we have no internet so this will probably be sent when we get back to Aus.
The four and seven day forecasts looked good for our planned departure on 26 August, once again we had the benefit of a car on loan from Rohan & Julie, which made our last minute shopping much easier. Every time we made a list went to the shops filled in the gaps and spaces we found more places to put things. A last minute rush over to Mitre 10 to buy 8 mm dowel to make a stackable storage system for the vegies and spuds which had not been needed for past shorter journeys.
I had ordered some duty free liquor from the Bond Store which was loaded on Friday 23rd August. Customs came and put a seal on each of the doors to the aft loo where it was all stored. On the 26th, Customs came at 9 am and did the Ship Clearance collecting our passenger cards etc. They did not seem too fussed about checking whether we had drunk all the booze!
The Passage 26 August to 30 August 2013
At 10am we headed out towards Palm Island where we spent our last night before heading off. Hopefully all the bank stuff and email subscriptions etc. that we deal with daily will run on autopilot as this was the last chance to use phones or the internet.
We were joined for the trip by Dean on the yacht “Bella Amalfi”, which he sails single handed, usually up and down the East Coast. He decided to join our expedition and managed to get his Australian Rego, PNG Visa, antifouling and radar all done and installed in 4 weeks – mad rush! We shared planned routes and said we would try to stay close if possible. It didn’t work, it never does. I don’t know why we tried! He also has AIS but this only provided about a 12 mile range from yacht to yacht probably aggravated by the angle of heel and the bouncy conditions. The VHF radio was not much better and as Dino did not have HF radio, he was soon out of range for direct communications however all was not lost…
Dino had bought a satellite phone in Townsville, we had also activated our SatPhone however at $20 for 1 minute we were not going to call him but he could text his father for free and we could email his father using the Winlink system on our HF radio. The challenge was finding land based stations with a strong and clear signal so we could get our messages sent and for us to receive weather GRIB files. We became a lot more competent with these systems as time went by.
Within hours of clearing the reef via Palm Passage, “Bella Amalfi” sailed a more windward course. We settled for 60% off the bow with fast speeds. By the end of the first day the wind was more from the East than we had hoped and at 20 knots gusting 24, with easterly swell approx. 2.5mts, it became hard to continue to hold our planned course. On day two, after a night of crashing and bashing we decided to change course by 25 degrees and head for the Custom’s Port at Samarai.
The changed angle gave a bit more boat speed although we continued with reefs in both sails. Actually, we were continually increasing and decreasing sail as conditions changed, particularly during the small squalls which were occurring. Wind speeds were from about 17 – 25 knots, with a gradual change from just south of east to a steady ESE, whilst swells remained a moderate 2.5-3mts. from the east.
During the second day we discovered that there was sea water ingress into the forward cabin. All the bedding, including mattress, pillows and cushions were wet with salt water. The forward hatch had not been locked down properly; the canvas cover which goes over the hatch has a string in the edge seam which appears to have got caught between the frame and seal. A very unfortunate scenario to say the least!
The third day was the worst for wind strength blowing steady at 20-24knots. The direction had now settled to SE (where it should have been all along) and the swell increased to 3.5-4mts. The speed was great and the shorter distance meant there was a strong possibility of reducing our number of nights at sea or arriving too late and having to drift around overnight – ugh!
During a lumpy bit around 6:00 am Susie took a fall which resulted in her impaling the palm of her left hand on a cabin hook normally used to hang our backpack, the cut is nasty and will need careful attention and antibiotics. She also managed to slow her fall by doing a face plant on the shelf, nose cut, not broken and an imprint of her glasses on her eyebrow.
At 3:30 pm we crossed the edge of the reef and entered PNG. Passing into the wind shadow behind the first island, we were able to shake out the reefs in the sails and go as fast as possible to get to an anchorage before nightfall. The first place, Doini Island looked rough, we arrived 10 minutes too late at the next anchorage of Rogeia Pata Bay, it was too dark to be able to judge the distance off the shore even with radar so we went the extra 2 miles to Samarai which has at least two navigation lights. We anchored at 8:30 pm in about 12 metres on a rocky bottom with dubious holding after three days and twelve hours, having sailed 558 miles, with an average speed of 6.6 knots.
Milne Bay Province 31 August to 4 September
Assuming no Customs or Officials would see us on Saturday morning, we motored the two miles to a place known by yachties as the Pearl Farm (long gone now), which is a protected anchorage. The time for cleaning up the mess began in earnest. The generator, the washing machine and the water maker were started, and whilst all that was going, we began washing the boat with salt water to get rid of the crusty build-up of salt crystals which had built up over the time from the sea spray. Once done, the cockpit had a quick fresh water rinse, before rinsing the mattress, pillows and cushions, which we took up on deck to dry in the sun. We hope we managed to get rid of all the salt!!
The islands are very verdant, jungle covered hills and mountains. Lots of colour from different foliage, frangipanis in flower and other interesting trees with gorgeous fluffy pink flowers attached to branches and of course lots of coconut trees. The soil appears to be very fertile and this was further demonstrated when the kids listed off all the fruits and vegetables they grow in their gardens. The colour and the clarity of the water is vibrant against the verdant backdrop. We can see the bottom at depths of 15mts in beautiful blue water becoming more brilliant pale turquoise as the reefs shallow.
Several people came to see us in their dug- out canoes. One young lad trading about 3kgs of small bananas for some fishing hooks, he was very happy with his trade. Billy, who said he was the husband of the Head Teacher at the school here, came to invite us ashore to watch their Saturday afternoon sports.
We noticed a distinct male and female segregation, with the females selling produce, mostly Betel Nut, Coconuts and Sweet potato. There were also big pots with blackened bottoms containing what, we do not know. We should have asked but we were careful in our approach to some of these very shy and demur people.
A considerable number of dogs of indeterminate breed and in appalling condition wandered in and about the people. Their condition was particularly disconcerting to us both.
We watched several games of soccer played on a sloping rough grass field in front of the school. Teams from the school and nearby villages took as part of the selection process for further competition. They love soccer! We also watched the ladies playing netball on an even more sloping and rough field of beaten clay, the ages of the players on each team were quite varied, with older teenagers and grey haired women playing on one team. Their soccer and netball skills were certainly very good. Having a further wander around the edge of the sport field we came across children playing marbles, somewhat similar to the way we used to play but different. Then we were surprised to come across another group of men playing darts.
One of the school teachers, Mr Halif told us about the school. Over 140 kids attend this Christian mission school with 4 or 5 teachers. They call their school “Kwato” which was started by people from the London Missionary Society in the 1890’s, their village is called Sidu-du and is Christian and therefore liberal. Whilst the villages on either side, are Seventh Day Adventists (SDA). For once I am in favour of the more rigorous rules of the SDA, they are not allowed to chew betel nut and their diet is restricted but these SDA’s do eat fish. They are so much nicer to look at than their Christian neighbours whose mouths and teeth are stained red with broken and missing teeth from years of chewing betel nut together with continuous pinches of lime (crushed coral) and mustard seed. I believe the habit is carcinogenic but even the school teachers do it and believe the pure quality of the lime that they make from local coral in this region is safer than the stuff used further east. Have a look at some of the faces in the photos, it’s easy to tell whether they are SDA or not.
On Sunday morning we received many visits, for the most part these children were SDA’s as their holy day was Saturday. The ages of the children ranged from 1yr – 14yrs. Susie had long chats with them about their villages, school, their gardens (cultivated areas) and religion. They brought us bananas, coconuts and cowry shells, guava and passionfruit in exchange for sweeties and balloons. They even delightedly sang to us. The children have lovely handwriting, probably better than our own age equivalents. Dinosi, aged 12yrs wrote a short history of the Kwato Missionary School in our book. The children were all polite and respectful. All the younger ones sported snotty noses, with green gunk ensuing, but otherwise they all appeared healthy. After 4 or 5 hours of visitors, entertaining them with cordial, more sweets and balloons, we politely sent them away for us to have a rest.
We made the 2 mile trip to Samarai on Monday morning, 2 September. I dinghied ashore to find Felix Dosi, from Customs. A couple of local boys showed me to his house, fortunately he was there. I had to bring Felix out in our dinghy; at least he took off his black leather shoes. A guy called Roderick came for the ride. We filled in Passenger Arrival Cards and he did a Vessel Arrival form and needed a copy of our Aussie Rego - to keep, he also inspected our alcohol and boat stores. We were unable to get Practique as the Quarantine people are based at Misima and were advised to keep our yellow “Q” flag up.
Felix said that if he gave us clearance we would have to leave within 12 hours, no more advance clearance as has appeared to be in the past, this has since been confirmed by others. He says that is the Customs Act and that the Rally has different arrangements made via Port Moresby... They will be cleared in and out at Misima on the same day and if we wanted to get the same advance clearance we would have to deal with Guy Chester (Rally organiser - who we have already heard will not allow us to piggy back onto his rally unless we pay him $900, which we believe is a form of extortion) at Misima. If we do not do this we would have to return to Samarai to get clearance which we will be reluctant to do.
The town of Samarai is on a small island in the China Straights. Years ago it was an important town but is now run down and slowly disintegrating. There was one old trawler being repaired. The Chinese trade store was closed but in the process of being renovated, the rest of the buildings are storm damaged and falling apart. All the commercial activity has moved to Alotau which is on the mainland, 25 miles away to the north-west. We do not plan on going there as getting back will be hard. After our unsatisfactory meeting with Customs which included a warning not to discharge green waste overboard (perhaps he meant green was ok, plastic was not, or rather was it something to do with quarantine).
After the description of Samarai I gave to Susie, she decided it was not worth while going ashore, particularly as the holding is poor and with the prevailing windy conditions we decided to return the Pearl Farm anchorage. But we did not leave without a bonus! We pulled up the anchor complete with a truck tyre covered in coral. Somehow I had managed to drop the anchor right in the middle of the tyre and after 10 minutes messing about with ropes and a boat hook we managed to drop the tyre and retrieve the anchor.
As previously mentioned, due to the fresh breeze (SE 20-25), we came back to the Pearl Farm. We had looked at Possession Bay further northwards, it is protected but was a very deep anchorage. Interestingly there are two boat building sheds there, both had largish boats in them. On the hills behind there is evidence of some timber clearance. One local mentioned to us that one of the boats is due to be launched on the 25th September.
I've downloaded the 4 day MSLP at 14:30, and it looks like we won't be moving for a few days! Our next few destinations are all in an eastward direction and with winds on the nose at over 20 knots we will have to be patient and wait for the conditions to ease. At least we can catch up on reading and blogging and catching up on some rest, for the trip has physically taken its toll on us both.
Heading East 4th to 13th September
By 4th September we felt need of a change from the Pearl Farm so we set off towards Rogeia Pata Bay only 4 miles away, en route we passed Samarai Island where two yachts were anchored “Pandana” and “Muskat”, both had come to see Customs but Felix was apparently in Alotau.
We kept going in >18 knots, motor sailing making fair progress. With the strong wind from the ESE Rogeia it did not look inviting so rather than go backwards we pushed on towards Basilaki Island, by early afternoon the wind was 25 knots and reaching 30 at times, Susie was not impressed. Eventually we anchored, having made a 6 mile detour around some islands which in calmer weather we could have gone between but given the conditions, we felt it safer to stay well away from rocky bits. We anchored at 4 ish in Pitt Bay, some protection but a bit rolly. The locals pounced; the first girl asked for a soccer ball which the soccer coach asked her to get. I asked for crayfish, at this stage we have not seen the crayfish. Needless to say, we green horns gave her the soccer ball on the proviso they would bring us crayfish, which of course never eventuated.
I spent the morning of 5 September cutting, drilling and making brackets from stainless steel to repair the hinge on the toilet seat which came apart. These things look good at boat shows but under severe loading (95kg load & heeled over and bouncing off waves) they fail. Looks like little respite from the weather for a few more days but hopefully it is improving.
Never did see any crayfish and this act coloured the rest of our visit. We found Pitt Bay locals very wanting, asking for high end goods for little in return. As soon as we were able, we decided to move on despite the inclement weather.
6 September 2013
We had a choice of places to go next but all of course to windward. We choose the lagoon between Hummock and Haszard Island in the Engineer Group. According to our charts we could enter from either side but the sketch of the anchorage suggested the eastern side was better but a bit further. This sort of entrance is what is sometimes called “character building”, the wind and swell were from astern so the boat tended to twist and turn with the wave action, meanwhile greenish brown bits of coral reef can be seen not far away on the port side, the depth went from 40 metres to 5 metres over white sand and then we were in and having to start dodging “bombies”, weaving across the lagoon in crystal clear water which makes judging depths very hard. We anchored but the swell coming over the reef and the strong wind made it uncomfortable.
The first visitor was the local policeman, Henry John, he offered to guide us to a calmer place later in the day when the tide was rising so after a few hours rolling he came aboard and helped pilot our way to a more sheltered spot. For his kindness he received tee shirts and shorts for his two youngest children, Stephen and Moses, who are still living with him. The next visitor was the local pastor from the Uniting Church; his name was unusual as it is a native name, Sodi Guwai. Most of the people on Hummock have Old Testament names.
Over the next couple of days we had many visitors offering fruit and shells for trade. Susie handed out sweets and balloons to the young ones, most of the teenage kids are away on a nearby Watts Island where there is a school. We met the local magistrate, Romulus and his son Joe who had befriended previous visiting yachties on “Songline”, whose 2010 blog we had downloaded on to Susie’s Ipad and which we had studied before left. The locals were happy to see their photos on the Ipad. They visited morning and afternoon usually staying for tea and biscuits or cake.
On Sunday the wind had eased enough to allow us to go ashore without being concerned for the security of the boat. We toured the village which is remarkably tidy and has the makings of streets defined by straight lines of shrubs. The only water on this island is provided by two water storage tanks courtesy of the EU, the village chapel has one, and the other is on a private “house”. Roofing iron has only recently been added to some thatched houses in lieu of the traditional pandanus and palm thatch. Every family (there are about 20 on this island) has been given a solar powered camping lantern, each morning they are put outside tilted towards the sun with a cloth wrapped around the lens to protect it. We also learnt that the government supplies 2 mosquito nets per family, whether this is a one off or annual we were unable to determine.
The island population continues to grow and is in desperate need of infrastructure. And to some extent the village has extended its fishing beyond the reef, catching ocean fish, packing them in ice in large ice chests and then the banana boat with 40hp outboard transports it at high speed to get to the fish market in Alotau 2hrs away.
A couple of large sailing canoes came and went to Watts Island 5 miles away and beyond, amazing to watch! These sailors are very skilled in sailing their boats. One of the local island trading boats arrived, well overloaded with both passengers and goods to take to the Calvados Islands. They stayed overnight and asked me for the weather forecast which we were able to give them, having downloaded the GRIB files from Winlink the afternoon before and also getting confirmation of the BOM forecast from Ashley in Townsville.
A catamaran came in, “Muskat” with Nils and Mitah on board, then a large power boat, “Wyllaway” returned having previously visited before heading to Misima. Henry John keeps a visitor’s book for all the visitors. We really enjoyed Hummock Island and its people. To be perfectly honest, it would have been nice to spend even more time with them. We met so many of them, too many to name all, but Miriam does lovely basket weaving.
So what was our hurry? We wanted to get to the Calvados Group to try and catch up with Dean on “Bella Amalfi”. By now, we had managed to get emails via Dean’s dad who kept us abreast of his whereabouts and goings on. Dean was thinking of heading off to the Solomon’s for a couple of weeks before returning here.
Eastward, we pushed on, knowing full well that we would have to “motor sail” to make the easting against the trade winds. Fortunately for us, the strong winds were abating making our windward trek somewhat easier. Our next leg was from Hummock Island in the Engineer Group, to Ltamarina (sometimes spelt with and L or an I) in the Conflict Island Group lagoon, some 34nm away. We were unfortunate to travel against the current for most of the morning however, our progress was somewhat improved when the current changed in our favour after lunch. We trolled a fishing line with a spoon on it but to no avail until we made the entrance to the lagoon when a Spanish mackerel was hooked, we pulled in the line right up to the duckboard, I had a pair of fish grips holding his bottom jaw but it squirmed and twisted and escaped! We still had a few miles to travel across the lagoon to the anchorage so we threw the line back in and within minutes hooked up a good size kingfish. We anchored at the uninhabited Ltamarina Island and went ashore with 2 weeks worth of plastic waste and the fish, so while Susie filleted the fish I made a fire and got rid of the rubbish. We rinse then cut up all our non bio-degradable waste and pack it in wine cask bladders (reducing smell) until it is chockers, then store it in the anchor well until we have an opportunity to burn it, seems to work very well.
From Ltamarina Island we headed to the De Boyne Group of Islands anchoring at Nivani Island and going ashore to Panapompom Island. An island adjacent is called Pannaete where they are well known for their boat building (sailing canoes). One lady who paddled out to us warned there had been a problem in the past with theft from boats so rather than take the risk we went ashore on Panapompom and found Pastor Stanley and the Chapel Treasurer Martin and gave them the big old genoa that we had brought from Townsville. This was a gift as opposed to trading and we told them to either use it on their chapel canoe of sell it or make it into smaller sails, they were happy.
I spent some time trying to find the wreck of a Japanese Zero which was supposed to be near where we anchored but the wind chop made it too hard to see below the surface. Next morning we left early for the Calvados Group, our original destination.
Calvados Group 13 September ……
Following our early departure from the anchorage at Nivani Island we motor sailed in 5-10knts of ESE wind crossing the de Boyne Group lagoon and out through the Nivani Pass, which is about 0.5 mile wide and was correctly positioned on our Navionics charts. We crossed the deep channel between and entered the Calvados Group via the Horaki Raki Passage. The depth changed from over 1000 m to 20 m in a distance of 100m, the current and tide causing massive overfalls and eddies but due to the moderate conditions they did not cause us any problems. As it was still only mid-morning, we agreed to keep going eastwards until the wind or the tide made progress too slow.
After a couple of hours we were close to one of our potential stopping places at Gigila Island when Susie suddenly noticed an AIS signal. Surprise, surprise, “Bella Amalfi” was just leaving Robinson Bay! After a brief chat over the radio, we agreed to go a few miles and anchor at the bay on the western end of Pana Wina Island. Following a Champagne reunion, we exchanged notes on what had happened since we parted on 27/28 August.
While we caught up, we watched five or six well loaded sailing canoes set sail for Hobruk School on Pana Tinani Island, going to attend Saturday sport the following day. The locals, now numbering considerably less in the village; in particular Magistrate Robert Nelson, became a fixture on both boats with continuing suggestions about how we could help his village. When we went ashore to view his new church, we were asked to fix the leaking taps from the dam. The poly pipes had been installed several years ago and many yachties including friends; Trevor and Elaine from Townsville had done varying amounts of work on their system. The new church has cost over 60,000 kina or AU$35,000, it is four times bigger than the old thatch church and has a concrete slab and a tin roof, hot as hell, and the next cyclone will destroy it.
We are finding many locals are asking for high priced goods for trades, which is somewhat off putting. We have also been asked outright for money and other gifts with no trading offered. However we have also been able to trade fairly. For instance, we have traded some material ($10); 100mt braided 45kg fishing line ($10), a few large hooks and sugar for 3 crayfish. Another time we traded a LED torch with batteries, a dozen or more assorted hooks, pair of shorts, a T shirt and something else (forgot) for 4 crayfish, a couple of shells for some rice, or fruit for sugar.
Our next stop was at the island of Nimowa anchoring in the NW corner in 19mts over a sandy bottom. A mile to the south is the Catholic Mission Station with Father Tony (almost certainly the same Father Tony we had heard about when we were cruising 30yrs ago) who has been a missionary in the islands since the 1963. His Church and the Mission School with several teachers, where the Principal is a young man called Ambrose. Ambrose’s family could no longer afford his teacher training fees and he has taken this paid position to administer the school. Once he has saved enough money, he will return to Alotau to complete his course.
The Mission Hospital is staffed by Sister Sarah (18yrs experience), and 9 other nurses working 4 hour shifts due to an acute water shortage. It was here that we gave the 2 enormous bags of sheets, pillowcases, and towels given to us by Frank of Delta Laundry from Ayr, and all the medicines and dressings we and others had collected, mosquito nets, nappies and new born baby clothes. We also included a few baby bottles for those either unable to breast feed or worse as maternal complications and death rates are rather high. Susie included bendy straws for sick children and she also gave her 2008 Australian Immunisation Handbook and a couple of issues of “Primary Times”, which were much appreciated. We now have a bit more space in the boat!
Most nurses have completed a 3yr Certificate in Nursing in Alotau, except for 2, namely Joanna and Pious who had completed a 4yr Diploma in Nursing in Alotau. Last year 252 births were delivered, many people treated with cuts and infections, pathology, including laboratory testing for malaria, broken bones stabilised before transporting by Ambulance boat to Misima, a 5hr trip away. They do childhood immunisations with Pentavalent vaccines, hold maternal and child health clinics. They do health education including Oral health clinics, nutritional checks and act as health advocates enabling the locals to make informed choices within the Catholic credence. Their competence and work is very impressive with so little. The day before we left Nimowa, a sailing canoe carrying 18 people (mostly mothers of wee babies) arrived to attend the hospital clinic.
We had overheard that the school has little funding for the numbers of students present and gifted them one of 4 school packs we had made up, these include a dozen or so exercise books, pens, pencils, biros, erasers, sharpeners, chalk and a few old issues of “National Geographic”, together with a new soccer ball and netball.
The day before Independence Day, we moved anchorage closer to the Mission to watch the celebrations, not the best of anchorages but good under the calm conditions we presently have. Our anchor is set in 24mts in sand, so we have a fair amount of chain and rode out.
September 16 is Independence Day in New Guinea and is the cause of village games, soccer, netball and volleyball competitions and 2hr Mass which we attended. The surrounding villages send their children in traditional dress and together with the singing, it was a memorable occasion. Under the boys’ pandanas leaf genital cover, many a pair of “Calvin Klein” jocks could be seen! More soccer followed the Mass and one of the high lights of the trip was being taken for a ride in one of their sailing canoes. Three canoes went out in about 15 knots of wind and sailed a triangular “race” for our benefit, each boat carried one DimDim (white man). To reciprocate Dean and I took 10 of them out on “Bella Amalfi” and sailed the same course. The locals were concerned about the way Dean’s boat heeled over in the wind gusts, their canoes have outriggers so they heel very little. A great time was had by all. The following day the Grand Final soccer match was held between the Mission School team and the Nimowa Villages team, it doesn’t matter who won (2 all), they and we all had fun.
The school has a satellite dish and is the centre of a network to other schools in the area via microwave links, it sounds impressive but the download speed is similar to what we had in the early 90’s. We both were able to checked our email containing heaps of rubbish despite unsubscribing before we left.
Before leaving Nimowa, Dean organised a get together with Father Tony on “Bella Amalfi” and the crew from “Escapades”, it was a great opportunity to talk to him about the challenges these island communities face. On previous nights, Dean had rigged up a screen (large bed sheet) using a projector that he had brought with him, showing movies such as “Ice Age 2” and “Avatar” and other movies, he was very popular.
Dean also put together a wonderful photo “montage” from all the pictures we all had taken, myself and Susie, Dean and also Greg on “Escapades” which is available to view at the following website, it is well worth a look. http://www.vimeo.com/findingdino/louisiades. This was also shown to the villagers one night instead of a movie. The villagers were spell bound and silent at the end, then they erupted with claps, they loved it!
Early on 18 September we spoke to Ashley and Brenda on “Ashymakaihken” who are soon to make their landfall in PNG at Duchateau Pass. Unfortunately we are 50 miles away due east, I’m sure that we will meet sometime in the next few weeks as we head back westwards.
We had intended to sail on to another anchorage but Dean had arranged for Father Tony to bless “Bella Amalfi”, for which I am sure Dean’s mother will be very happy about. It was a lovely little service held at 4.30pm, followed by champagne just as the sun was descending. Following the service we moved, returning to the NW anchorage to get out of the wind against current chop. We anchored further inshore than our previous visit to this bay and as a result got in amongst the coral, the anchor grumbled and snagged so much so we decided to move further out, which was a challenge as the chain was snagged under coral about 15 metres below us, eventually it came loose and we moved into deeper water where we managed to anchor in sand. Because it was dark I noticed sparks in the anchor well as the anchor was coming up when we were trying to get away from the coral, next morning the windlass would on power down and not up…… Closer inspection I found a connection that had come loose, so after a clean and tightening the connection, we were all back in action. Trying to lift a 65lb anchor attached to 20 metres of chain hanging straight down is not good for me!
Next day (19th) we sailed (yes, that was novel for us), to another anchorage called Hati Lawi Harbour, supposed to be free of locals, we’ll wait and see. “Free of locals” is a relative concept, nowhere is free of locals, there are so many little villagers all dotted along the coast and the villagers’ gardens are up hillsides so there is quite a bit of canoe traffic throughout. This place appears to have fewer than other places. I must admit that after the first three canoes came and we placed our order for ripe bananas, a pawpaw and some crayfish the others went away. Susie made bread and yoghurt while doing the laundry, the accumulated rubbish from the last 10 days was burnt on a nearby coral island. G&T in the cockpit with Dean, in a very calm anchorage.