05/09/2009, Coinjock, NC
We left Belhaven at 0600, at daybreak. It turned out a very windy day. We had the genoa up on the Pungo river, but by the time we got to the Alligator river the wind had increased and we saw gusts of over 30 knots. We furled the genoa and set the smaller staysail instead. Fortunately the wind was from the south-west, and we were travelling in a northerly direction. There is an old swing bridge crossing the Alligator river, which does not open in sustained winds of 35 knots and higher. We were lucky that the winds did not get that strong, or we would have been stuck in the unattractive Alligator river, which has no protected anchorages. Crossing the Albemarle Sound was a bumpy affair. This stretch of water is large but shallow, and kicks up a nasty steep swell in strong winds. Mary did not like it. When we got to Coinjock they told us the Gilmerton railroad bridge in Norfolk would be closed to traffic all day Sunday. So we decided to stay in Coinjock and leave for Norfolk/Hampton tomorrow. We had an OK dinner ashore and went to bed early after a long day underway.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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05/08/2009, Belhaven, NC
We first stopped in Belhaven two years ago when heading south. It was a blustery, rainy day, and we stopped early in the day to wait out the weather, never getting off the boat. Since then, I have read a bit about the town in cruising guides, and have wanted to return. We decided to take a half day and explore.
A half day was too much time, however. The town has seen better days, with many closed stores, and very little of interest to see. There are some charming houses along the waterfront, a drug store, and hardware store. One shop I wanted to find was Wine and Words (www.wineandwords.biz). We had visited their store in Washington and found two very nice wines (highly rated by the wine "experts"). We picked up a Spanish garnacha, Garnacha de Fuego, Old Vines 2006 for $9.95 (wonderful!) and a 2007 Jumilla from Luzon for $10.75 (which we have yet to try).
The Wine & Words in Belhaven not only has an interesting wine (and beer) selection for its size, but they also have a cafe called Back Bay Cafe. They proudly display a sign that says they offer offer 50 wines for under $12.00. W&W is owned and operated by James McKelvey and his wife, who is also the chef. We each had a beer while browsing the book and eclectic cd selection. Many of the books and cd's are used (but in very good shape). I found a cd of Astor Piazzolla songs and later picked up a Heath Brothers cd. After taking a look at the menu and hearing about the dinner specials, we decided to return later that evening.
James features a selection of reds and whites at dinner (at a reduced price). But one of the special features of dining here is that you can pick out a bottle from the store, and for a $4.00 corking fee, sample a bottle that would be double or triple the price at another restaurant. James is very knowledgeable about his collection and made wonderful recommendations. We selected a 2006 Agentinian cabernet sauvignon from Bodega Catena Zapata which sold for $17.80. It was delicious - if you can use that term to descibe a wine - and we bought two to go.
Dinner was wonderful, and Chef Yvonne came out and spoke with us (as well as their other diners). She is from England and lived in several places before settling in Belhaven.
We recognized another diner who came into the anchorage earlier that day. Mike, from Cooya, came to our table to chat for a bit. He is from Scotland (originally from England), and sails a yawl designed by Linton Hope, and built from Burma teak in 1914 in Brightlingsea, England. He has owned the boat since 1973.
All in all, we had a wonderful visit to Belhaven. If for no other reason, boaters should make this a stop to visit Wine & Words and the Back Bay Cafe. They are closed Mondays & Tuesdays (and the month of January), serve lunch Wednesday-Saturday, dinner on Friday and Saturday and are open for Sunday Brunch.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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05/07/2009, Bath, NC
After taking care of a dental emergency, we left the dock at 1200 today, for a leisurely 15 mile sail down the river to Bath, a small town on the Pamlico River.
Bath, North Carolina's first town, was founded in 1705. Bath provided easy access to the Pamlico River and the Atlantic, 50 miles away, and was the first port of entry into North Carolina. Bath is home to the oldest existing church in the state, St. Thomas.
Bath is a lovely, sleepy little town, with two homes from the 1700's, but little else. A quiet anchorage makes this a nice stop-over.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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05/06/2009, Washington, NC
The western part of North Carolina that borders the Pamlico River is referred to as the "Inner Banks". Washington was established in 1771 by James Bonner, who had a plantation here. He was a colonel in the Revolutionary militia, and named the town Washington in honor of General George W. This area became popular with privateers during a period of colonial blockades.
Washington was heavily involved in fighting during the Civil War, and fell to the Union after New Berne in 1862. Washington remained in Union hands for two years. When the Union Army left, they burned and pillaged much of the town including homes and churches.
There remain many houses and buildings from the early 1800's. The town itself has a certain charm, however, like most small coastal towns, there are many empty storefronts. The docks and waterfront have recently been rebuilt. There is an Estuarium focusing on the Pamilico/Tar River estuary, which is the second-largest estuary in the country. Several shops and restaurants, a farmers market on Saturday and monthly nights of music on the streets to entertain visitors. Everyone we have met has been very friendly and hospitable. We are both glad we took the time to visit this charming little town.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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05/06/2009, Washington, NC
Having traversed this part of the ICW three times - making a straight shot south - or north - we decided to begin to explore some of the rivers and towns that we pass along our way. We selected Washington, NC, some 33 miles up the Pamlico River from where it intersects the ICW, after hearing that it was a quaint and somewhat historic town.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by Scott, skipper of Salty Spouse, a 36' Morris Justine, designed by Chuck Paine, who also designed Curlew. Scott and his wife, Inza, moved to Washington about eight years ago, and keep the boat at the marina here. They spend the winters here and travel during the summer on their boat. Scott and Inza took us to the grocery store and a marvelous seafood market - on what was a very bleak rainy day. We later had lunch with them at the Meeting Place Cafe - who offered a wonderful, varied menu with many interesting vegetarian offerings.
On Tuesday we were joined on C dock here at the Washington Public Dock by Doug and Mary Ann of Calculation, a 35.5' Bristol. They now live in Oriental, NC and also spend many months on their boat. We ran into them that evening at Pia's, a restaurant here in town and joined them for dinner. It was a very good meal, complete with good conversation.
Like everywhere else along the east coast, we had our share of rain, and tracked a storm front on TV while sipping a beer at a local bar. The front, which was headed for Washington was threatening to turn into a tornado. It was pretty interesting to watch the radar with minute by minute commentary on the development of this storm. Luckily, the tornado never developed, but we did hear that there were some tornadoes that touched in other parts of NC.
Today we walked several blocks to the laundry and are now preparing Curlew for our journey back to the ICW and homeward.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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05/05/2009, Washington, NC
We are in Washington, NC (the "Original Washington"). It is pouring rain. You can see us on the Washington Web Cam until we leave here.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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05/02/2009, Adams Creek
We left Charleston on Friday, May 1 at 0630 and headed offshore to Beaufort NC, a distance of about 200 nm. We motor-sailed for a few hours, but around 1000 we turned the engine off and continued under sail. It was a beautiful sunny day. About mid-day we were entertained by a large pod of dolphins! They were swimming around and under the boat, riding the bow waves, jumping over each other and swimming upside down. It was quite a spectacle.
We sailed wing-on-wing with the main to port, on a preventer, and the genoa to starboard, on its whisker pole. During the day the wind continued to increase from 10 to 15 knots, and to 20 knots later, when I put the first reef in the main. Perfect with a following wind, but we were glad that we did not have to beat into it. At 0300 we rounded the Frying Pan Shoals, a notorious trouble spot where many ships have foundered. During Saturday the wind increased further to 25 knots and became quite gusty. I put 4 rolls in the genoa to reduce sail area again. The waves started to increase to 6ft, with occasional higher rollers of 8 or 10 ft. Probably the result of the combination of a left-over swell from the SE and wind-driven waves from the SW, the current wind direction. Some crests started to break, but we were able to keep the decks dry. At 1500 on Saturday we reached the entrance channel to Beaufort and a little later we turned on the engine. We sailed 200 nm in 32 hours, not bad for a heavy cruising boat such as CURLEW. We continued inside to find an anchorage a little north of Beaufort. We dropped anchor in Adams Creek, 228 nm out of Charleston.
Mary managed quite well with her patch, and was even able to prepare (reheat) dinner which she had cooked the night before.
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04/28/2009, Charleston. SC
I left Beaufort to attend Lauren's (my daughter) bridal shower. It was to be a surprise, so I had to hide out for 2.5 days, and shop for the rest of her shower gift. Lauren works in the city, has her hair cut in the city, and parties in the city - so of course, she was doing all of the above the few days I was there prior to the shower. Thanks to Mike (Lauren's fiancee), my sisters and Lauren's friend Marsha, I was kept informed of her whereabouts, so I was able to avoid running into her. Her shower was a great success - she was somewhat surprised (someone let the cat out of the bag). What had her in doubt was that she expected me home the following Wednesday. Everyone said they had a great time - and that is the important thing. Her bridesmaids did a terrific job decorating and keeping things simple - which is what Lauren wanted. I had lunch with some friends, and visited with my family (and had several wonderful dinners - a few of which I cooked!!).
Lauren and I went to two bakeries to taste wedding cakes. One bakery had us sample about 10 different cakes - served us tea - and had us meet with the chef to discuss our options. What a treat! We then went to see Lauren and Mike's new house in Audubon. It is absolutely beautiful and is designed for entertaining. From now on - its holidays at their house! (well, at least some of them!)
I was gone about 10 days, and got back to Curlew to find shiny wood trim and a very tan Thierry! He must have been working very hard while I was gone. We had drinks on board with Kirk and Lisa (from Thalia), and then Thierry and I had a nice dinner at Plum's. The next day we stocked the boat with groceries, had dinner with Kirk and Lisa on board Curlew, then left early on Monday to head to Charleston. We anchored just outside of Charleston Harbor so we could arrive early enough in the anchorage the next day to get a good spot. The current runs very strong here, and it can get a bit choppy when the tide turns and the wind blows in the opposite direction.
Today we lunched in town and walked along the historic district. When I come back in another life, I want to live HERE, in one of the old mansions!
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04/27/2009, Stono River, near Charleston SC
Mary left for Philadelphia on April 15. While she was away I sanded and varnished the caprail and drip rail (3 coats of Cetol gloss), the dorade boxes, the deck box, the stern seats and the flagstaff (2 coats of Epifanes varnish). Sounds like a simple job, but with all the preparation and clean-up it took the entire a week. Now CURLEW's brightwork looks as new again, and hopefully it will last for another year (well, maybe a maintenance coat in the fall). The derelict boat ("DB") mentioned in a previous post was the cause of some trouble again, as it seemed to have fouled its anchor and it drifted all the way up the creek. Fortunately the current took it away from CURLEW. At high tide, around 2000, after sunset, I saw a large tender with a red flashing light with DB in tow. They pushed it back on the top of a mud bank and re-anchored it in such a way that it would stay stuck there. Mary returned on Saturday April 25, and CURLEW raised anchor on Monday. We were glad to leave the anchorage, because the last few days it had become very buggy. Tiny no-see-ums, that bite and itch forever. We are now anchored in the Stono River, an hour away from Charleston, were we will be moving tomorrow morning.
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04/14/2009, Beaufort, SC
Since Thierry has been keeping everyone up-to-date with our latest mishaps and adventures, I'll share all the things I like about Beaufort.
Since we arrived almost a week ago, I haven't talked to a grumpy person yet! Everyone you meet at a store or restaurant is friendly and outgoing. Even today at the hardware store - which was incredible (sold everything from wood to fishing gear to clothing) - we spoke with two clerks who were ready to help us with our shopping needs and share anecdotes. I guess this is what they call Southern Hospitality!
Beaufort doesn't lack for a variety of dining and imbibing experiences. A favorite for lunch is Pannini's, serving great oven baked pizza and a variety of sandwiches, salads and other Italian dishes. They also have an outdoor bar and seating area. We had breakfast for the first time in Beaufort at Blackstone's. They made a perfect poached egg (for me), Thierry and our friends, Kirk and Lisa, all seemed to enjoy their breakfasts as well. Previously we had visited Plum's which offers a diverse menu - and we both remember having a good meal there.
There are probably a dozen art galleries - many with an eclectic variety of works in all mediums. I have a soft spot for one particular gallery where the owner told us "you don't look like boaters" - I took that as a genuine compliment (especially when you see some of the folks that live on boats and travel the waterways). We are truly fond of The Gallery owned by Deanna Bowdish, a distant relative of the author of "American Practical Navigator", a book we (along with most serious navigators) have on board. We have several of Deanna's paintings and have purchased others in her store on previous trips.
We discovered two grocery stores, a well-stocked Publix and a natural foods store. I can't tell you how excited I was to find a place that had a plethora of organic produce, bread and meats. I have been living on fish for so long, it was such a joy to make pasta with (turkey) meat sauce last night - it really was delicious if I say so myself.
Beaufort also offers a lot in the way of women's clothing stores and gift shops. They have a wonderful kitchen store, a terrific liquor store, a wine and cheese shop, and a great coffee shop which is fun to hang out in.
Lastly, you can't appreciate Beaufort until you've had an opportunity to walk through the old neighborhoods with their magnificent live oak trees covered with Spanish Moss. These trees are truly incredible, the way they arch over driveways and streets, spreading for fifty feet or more. Generally they are found in the yards of lovely antebellum houses. I read an article that said having a live oak on your property raises the property value by $30,000.
I think I could live here - at least for a season; perhaps summer in Maine, spring in Beaufort, winter in Hope Town, and fall on the Chesapeake. Guess that leaves the in between time for Philadelphia!
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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04/13/2009, Beaufort, SC
When we anchored in Beaufort on Friday I put out two anchors. This is often done when you are in a tight anchorage, with a strong current. The second anchor prevents "sailing around the anchor" in a current-against-wind situation. I had put out a small kedge anchor on 100ft of nylon rode. One evening I had to move the rode from starboard to port, in view of an expected change in wind direction that night. I did not have much line-length left to tie around the cleat, and I probably did not take enough turns around the cleat. Stupid mistake! The next morning I discovered that the line had slipped and that I had lost the anchor. I tried a few times to drag a little grapnel anchor from the dinghy back and forth across the bottom of the creek, but without success. I decided to wait for low tide that afternoon, and then give it another try. Mary and I went ashore for a walk, and we returned to CURLEW around 1500. In the meantime a derelict boat, that had been sitting high and dry in the mud at low tide a little further up the creek, had been re-floated and had anchored on a singe and very long nylon anchor rode, close to where we were anchored. Now it was low tide and after several attempts with the grapnel anchor I finally found the anchor rode. I was unable to lift the anchor from the dinghy. The holding power of this little anchor (a 10lbs aluminum Fortress FX-16) is truly amazing. I coiled the rode and tied it to a floating fender. I was going to try to retrieve it with CURLEW's strong windlass the next morning. When I looked out of the companion way the next morning I could not find the fender. It appeared that the derelict boat had been sailing around its anchor and fouled my fender and the attached anchor rode. This also meant that we could not move CURLEW to raise the kedge, as we would be dangerously close to the derelict boat. I decided to board this boat and try to retrieve our kedge from its deck. Unfortunately, there was nothing on deck that I could use as leverage. Lots of rotten wood, debris, and no strong cleat or sansom post. I hauled in as much of our rode as I could, and tied the end around one of the hawse holes. Then I hauled in on the boat's anchor rode and used the momentum of this heavy boat, and the current, to break out the kedge. It took a few tries, but in the end I got the kedge on deck. Success at last!
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04/12/2009, Beaufort, SC
At the end of our walk around Beaufort we stopped at a little bar. A few people were sitting around an outside table. One was playing a guitar. We sat down with our drinks at the table next to the musical group. The guy who was playing the guitar handed it to another person, who flipped the guitar around, and started playing left handed. Now I could swear that the first guy was right handed. Indeed, the second person, whose guitar it was, was playing left handed, on a guitar that was built as a left-handed instrument, but strung as a right-handed guitar. So this guy was playing upside down, witht the bass strings at the bottom. I am not a guitar player, but I know some basics, and it was a strange sight. He had a good voice, and convinced Mary to sing with him.
| Bahamas 2008/2009 |
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