Another fast sailing day took us to Crotone, where we anchored in the commercial port for one night. We had been told by other cruisers that anchoring in the commercial port was no longer allowed but we were OK. It really is just a one night place to rest but the holding is very good in thick gooey mud that took an effort to get off!

From here, we travelled 16 miles up the coast to Ciros Marina, which isn't a marina but the name of the town. We had never been there and were told that it was very small, this was an understatement. As we turned to enter the marina, about 7 fishing boats sped out, all racing to see who could get out first, or so it seemed. We slowly made our way in and wondered where we could possibly go. The marina seemed to be purpose built for the local fishing fleet and not much else. However, a couple of guys from the local Lega Navale (sailing club) beckoned us in. Where to? We wondered. There's no space here for us, let alone Ni & Kris with their catamaran. They found us a space in the haul-out dock and Ni & Kris a space against a wall and only charged us both 20 euros for our stay. We stayed 2 nights during which we visited the local Trattoria Pescatore just across the road where there was no menu; you were simply told what was on offer and made your choice. It was a good shout with the most delicious fish antipasti and prawn spaghetti. A little pricey for a trattoria but the food was excellent and the location just prefect with all the old stone walls covered in black and white photos of the town in times gone by and the local fishing catches that made the headlines. The weather wasn't very good during our stay with was a great opportunity for Ni & Kris to teach us how to really play dominoes, quite unlike what we usually do in the UK and simply match the numbers. Their boat was certainly a talking point in the port and there was often a few people stood by her checking her out.

The plan was to leave at o'dark thirty again (why do we keep doing this) and head across the Gulf of Taranto, turn left at the heel of Italy and up to Otranto, 25 miles away. The weather forecast meant that we should be able to sail the whole way. With only 4 hours sleep, we slipped the lines, reversed out of the haul-out dock and tipped-toed out of the port. In no time at all, the sails were up, the engine off and we were screaming across the Gulf of Taranto. We had the wind perfectly on our side and the sails set perfectly but the wind was a lot stronger than the forecast (why do we keep believing them) and we had to put a couple of reefs in the sails (made the sails smaller by rolling them away for non-yachties) and still hit 9 knots. The sea was very choppy and we got very wet when the waves decided to give us a hug! Luckily, the water was warm. Chris told me about the same experience he used to have sailing with his Uncle Stanley on the south coast of England where the water is very cold. On that thought, I was happy to be where I was. Wet but happy.

We got to the heel of Italy in double quick speed and turned left for the journey up to Otranto. All the excitement of the day so far quickly evaporated when the weather forecast was wrong and we had 22 knots of wind right in front of us and poor Deep Blue was smashing down into the waves. We were determined though and tried hard to battle on trying out different strategies but it was no use and we turned around, heading back for Santa Maria di Leuca on the tip. It is not a nice feeling to have to turn around and retrace your steps but it was the right decision.

CRUISERS NOTES
Crotone - you are able to anchor in the commercial port. Fuel dock available.
Ciros Marina - very small, you might have to raft up to a fishing boat. Friendly people. Lots of shops and good supermarkets a couple of streets back from port