The autumnal weather changed back to summer and so we set off west again towards Chania, Crete's second largest city and, arguably, its prettiest.

Like Iraklion and Rethymno, Chania has a beautiful Venetian harbour (though the crumbling breakwater at the entrance needs to be avoided when entering and leaving!) and it was here that we were met by the young Harbour Master Stavros, who gave us the best welcome we have had since leaving the UK, as we tied to the quay for a few days whilst we did some exploring. Dating back to Minoan time around 1450BC, Chania came under Venetian rule in the early 13th century until the Turks invaded and took over in 1645. When Ottoman rule ended in 1898, Chania became Crete's capital until Iraklion replaced it in 1971.

The waterfront around the harbour is a pleasant assault on the senses; surrounded by colourful Venetian buildings, some in good repair and some needing repair, horse-drawn carriages patiently await passengers outside the mosque and bars and restaurants tempt passers-by. The Old Town is a criss-cross of narrow streets with lots of artisanal shops and tiny restaurants tucked away into corners.

The main town has everything that a modern town offers and has a nice feel about it. The covered market is a great place for shopping for meat, fish and local products. We had a delicious seafood lunch in here, all fresh from the fish mongers next door.

We spent a good few hours visiting the Naval Museum, located in the Firkas Fortress at the entrance to the harbour. The WWII displays were very moving as they told the story of the bravery of both the Cretans and Allies. There was also a large display of intricate model boats, made right on the premises by local enthusiasts.

The Maritime Museum, housed in the former Venetian shipyard displayed a replica Minoan boat that had been built locally and then rowed, yes rowed, in stages over a one-month period from Chania to Athens, for the opening of the Olympics Games.

During our whole trip along the north coast of Crete, we have been surprised by the latest craze that seems to have hit the island - Fish Spa's! Salons with tanks of small fishes from Thailand that nibble off dry skin from your hands and/or feet. Well, at the end of the summer, it's nice to give your feet a bit of pampering and so I had a go. For 20 minutes, the fish clung on to my feet, whilst gently exfoliating them. They don't eat the skin, just nibble it off. It tickled and, once you got used to it, it was a good experience.

We could have certainly stayed longer in Chania but we had a 3 ½ day journey to make to reach Sicily and a perfect weather window opened up for us to do just that, so we took it. We had a great time in Crete, the people were so nice and friendly, the interior scenery was stunning, the towns were all interesting and had lots of history and it was here that we had emerald green kingfishers swooping around the boat at every port of call. That was special.

For photos, CLICK HERE

CRUISERS NOTES
Lazy lines at most berths on town quay but they are big and heavy. Be warned.
Even in October, town quay was noisy at night with music.
Water/electric metered and arranged by Harbour Master.
Cost approx. 6 euros per night payable at Coast Guard office.