We arrived in Virgin Gorda at 09:00 and, as we approached the channel to the marina, the heavens opened and within a few minutes we were having the heaviest fresh water wash down since departing Cape Town. In fact it came down in buckets and I aborted our entrance to the marina and we spent an hour drifting at sea whilst the massive rain squall passed over. Then into the marina (arriving yachts get a free hour there whilst you walk across a field to the customs and immigration offices) and a quick check-in and check-out, and back to the marina and off to the TUI marina on Tortola.
I met with the manager and started the process of getting the engines serviced and filling our diesel tanks and drums, as well as filling up the fresh water tanks - the last time we had taken on fresh water was in Walvis Bay, Namibia.
Ah, and then the sheer bliss of going to the base restaurant and having a good greasy burger and chips (fries) with a fresh salad - nothing can beat that when you have been at sea for a long time!
So, the base staff are servicing the engines and that has give me the opportunity to check the comments on the blog and have a general "surf" on the Internet. A number of folk have made some comments and I will get to answering them in the next few days.
Let me also clarify some comments made on the Internet. Firstly, we started the delivery with a second headsail, which we use when running downwind. Unfortunately, I sent it back to Cape Town when we had to stop off in Walvis Bay - a daft decision in hindsight. The reason for me sending it back was that we were given a spinnaker. All the delivery sails we have on board have to be returned to Cape Town on completion of the delivery and the less we have to carry, the less we pay for extra baggage. We have used the spinnaker quite a lot in the light winds we experienced but the second headsail would have also benefitted us on days where the wind was too strong for a spinnaker but great for the second foresail.
Then the name of the boat. The boat only gets named and registered when it is put into the charter fleet after the Annapolis Boat Show. But a boat needs a name to leave the country with all the relevant paperwork. It is hull number 001 of the new design. The new design is A4 and the company who ordered it is TUI Marine, using the Moorings fleet name. So, put all that together and the name of the vessel ends up as Moorings A4001. When it gets to its destination, it will be registered, most likely, with its home port being Road Harbour, BVI and the name will be whatever somebody wants to call it. But, until it reaches its delivery destination, it is South African flagged and has the above mentioned name.
In the early hours of Thursday morning we will depart on our last leg and hope that no tropical storms develop before we reach our destination - we monitor the tropical weather four times a day. So, I am now going to get a good nights sleep as soon as I have posted this blog. Regards from all aboard Moorings A4001 - the photo above is A4001 backed into the berth in Tortola - note the extra fuel drums and, if visible, the fishing lines and bungee cords rolled up on the stern.
The few days before passing Barbados were slow and painful as we had little wind and were running out of diesel, knowing that we had to keep up our speed to meet our deadlines. Fortunately, we work for quite a large organisation and sometimes, things get "smoothed out" when we are in a rush. More about that below.
Our Ship Spotting Competition came to an end when we passed a point directly south of Barbados. The results: Hardy - 19 ships spotted Andries - 12 ships spotted Myself - 13 ships spotted So, Hardy gets a good bottle of rum when we arrive in Tortola. It was fun and competition was on the entire time between everybody. The whole reason for the competition was to keep everybody alert at all times to the shipping around us. And it has its knock-on effect, keeping everybody aware of what's going on around us at all times for the remainder of our journey.
Yesterday afternoon we tuned into a radio station in Barbados and listened to a cricket match being played there as we slowly sailed past the island. Quite an interesting domestic 50/50 match. Then the sun went down and we had the lights of Barbados slowly fade behind us and the lights of St Lucia slowly brighten ahead of us. There was no moon and the stars were bright with only the occasional cloud coming over to blot out the view. At 04:25 this morning (Monday, September 21), we crossed the invisible line that divides the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, when we passed through the channel south of the island of St Lucia.
We then slowly curled up the west coast of St Lucia and made for Marigot Bay, arriving a few minutes before 09:00. Our head office in Florida had notified the base there of our arrival and we were expected. We checked in with Customs and Immigration and then took on two tanks of diesel and cast off our lines. We were out of there within half an hour. We now should be arriving in Tortola just before noon on Wednesday and should make the TUI base just after noon as we have to clear in at Virgin Gorda before going to the base.
We have a few little problems to sort out as well as servicing both our engines and we will most likely stay and have a burger or other missed junk food before casting off our lines and heading for Annapolis. Another update before the weekend.
Regards from Andries, Hardy and myself, John
We have managed to make great use of the fast flowing current that runs along the continental shelf on the northern coast of South America, resulting in some very good noon to noon runs. However, all good things eventually come to an end and so has the thrust of the current. As we passed Suriname, we started loosing the current and then headed another 5 degrees north, to our next waypoint, just southwest of the island of Barbados, From there we go through the St Vincent channel and enter the Caribbean Sea. As I write this (Thursday morning 01:00 local time), we are still over 450 nautical miles from the waypoint.
We still have plenty of food in our freezer from Cape Town, which has now been supplemented by very good catches of fish (photo above of Andries with his Dorado caught yesterday evening, just before we were going to roll in our lines for the day). I like the Dorado, which has a lovely textured light meat, while Hardy and Andries appear to also enjoy their sashimi, although they have now run out of the fresh tuna they caught the other day,
Our "ship spotting" competition comes to an end when we get to our next waypoint. The whole object of the competition is to try and make the crew doubly vigilant whilst we are making way in the shipping lanes - and it works. Hardy is leading with 15 ships sighted whilst Andries and I are joint second with 10 ships each. It looks like Hardy will be taking the prize of a bottle of good Caribbean rum which I will buy at the shop in Tortola, where we will be stopping for a few hours next week to take on diesel and fresh water and get rid of our bags of garbage, which, I am sure, will walk out of the forward locker by themselves. The heat at the moment will have "matured" the contents pretty well by now!
Yesterday (September 16), we were still two days behind Gavin, the delivery captain on board a Leopard 46, also heading for Annapolis. Kirsten, our only female delivery captain, was in Tortola and about to depart whilst Piet, on board hull #002 of the new 38' Leopards, was about a day from Tortola. Then I have not heard from David on board a 40' Leopard or from Wayne on board another Leopard 46 - Wayne is heading for Fort Lauderdale and not Annapolis, as far as I know. So, all the delays in Namibia have put us at the back of the bunch, which has resulted in us pushing quite hard to ensure that we make the deadline of October 5 to get the boat on the show.
As I type this, the night sky is occasionally being lit up by an electrical storm over the horizon to the north of us. This is the first really big lightning display we have had on the trip and, I am sure, not the last we are going to experience as we edge our way north into the tropically unstable northern hemisphere. Yesterday night we also had our first real rain squall of the trip. At about 04:00, whilst I was on watch, this huge black cloud slowly moved over the boat and for a few minutes, the heavens opened and poured buckets of fresh water onto us. It was great, as it washed all the Namibian dessert sand and dust out of the rigging. The down side was that it did not last long enough to wash away all the mud that washed onto the deck. In the morning we washed down the deck with salt water, once again leaving a good layer of salt on the deck. The next rain squall should was away the itchy salt!
And whilst on the subject of the weather, we are monitoring the tropical weather in the north Atlantic on a daily basis to ensure that we do not get anywhere close to a tropical storm or hurricane. However, right at the moment we need some wind to get our speed up - we currently only have a miserable 6 to 8 knots out of the east-northeast and would like about 15 knots out of that direction. So, I will leave you whilst we all pray for the right wind out of the right direction. Thanks for taking the time to read my rumbling notes. Regards from Andries (expert fisherman, cook and crew member), Hardy (first mate and excellent mechanic) and myself, John (the guy who is supposed to be in charge).
Ah, the sound of a bottle of Champagne opening for the equator crossing ceremony. We made it from the Southern Hemisphere into the Northern Hemisphere on Saturday at 14:56 UTC/GMT, four minutes before our local noon. We made the crossing at 042 degrees 43.4 minutes west. We have sailed 4442 nautical miles and have another 3115 nautical miles to go to Annapolis.
We are currently heading for a waypoint off the coast of Suriname, sticking to the continental shelf to make the most of the current, before we start heading for the channel south of the island of St Lucia and then on to Tortola, the capital island of the British Virgin Islands. We will be making a short stop there to take on fresh water and fuel for the 1400 odd nautical mile last leg to Annapolis. We should arrive in Tortola on September 23, all going well.
Over the past few days we have sailed with the Genoa tacked out only and did some good daily runs in winds ranging from 15 knots to 35 knots. Shortly after crossing the equator, the wind started to drop and we had a great sail under spinnaker, averaging over 8 knots in the six hours we had it up. Unfortunately, the moon is busy waning and we only have moonrise in the early hours of the morning, meaning that we had to take the spinnaker down and sail on the genoa through the night, putting it up again at 3am. This boat sails very well with the spinnaker but once the wind goes over 16 knots apparent, down it must come.
Today (Monday September 14) we have so little wind that we are motor-sailing to try and get more north west so that we can pick up the trades again. So, basically, we are in the ITCZ or doldrums as the old sailors used to call the area.
It is cooking hot on board at the moment, a sharp contrast to the freezing cold we experienced after leaving Cape Town. However, this has not stopped Andries from baking two great looking loaves of bread, one of which will be consumed in a short while for lunch. Andries has been excelling in his cooking ability, making the most wonderful dinners from my collection of recipes which I have in my "little black book" and on my laptop.
In the next 24 hours we are going to have some change in our environment. If you click on the Shiptrak link on the right of this page, you will be taken to a web page with a map of the world and you will see that our latest local noon position is off the Amazon Delta. Well, this little river has quite a flow into the sea and the brown water has such force as it enters the ocean, that the flow goes a few hundred miles out to sea, turning the water from a turquoise blue to a muddy brown, which is carried by the current right up into the Caribbean Sea. It is quite a sight to see on a satellite photograph and is just as amazing to actually sail in the brown waters.
I hope you all had a great weekend and a good week ahead. Regards from the three of us aboard A4001 - John.
On Wednesday morning we reached our waypoint off the Brazilian coast and a lot of things started to happen. Firstly, we have had birds sleeping on the boat each night - sometimes they fall off when we get hit by a big wave but mostly they manage to hold on tightly. They then fly off around about 05:00, just as there is the faintest bit of light showing on the eastern horizon, heralding the new day. We also now have an abundance of birds around the boat during the day, carefully monitoring our fishing lures when we put them out.
Then we have had pods of dolphin arriving in groups of about thirty to fifty at a time, spending some time showing off at the bows and then moving on to, most probably, forage for food in the form of flying fish. There are millions of these little fish around us each day, taking off as the boat approaches them in huge "squadrons" to get out of our way. They most probably think we are a big flying fish eating monster trying to attack them.
And then we cannot forget the humans and their machines - ships! For over 1800 nautical miles we saw not one ship and had not one squeak out of the VHF radio. Then on Tuesday evening our world came alive with fellow seafarers around us. All shapes and sizes of ships from huge oil tankers to small fishing boats are being spotted each day and our ship spotting competition is in full swing with Hardy taking the lead at the moment. The VHF is also keeping us informed that there are a lot more ships out there than we can see, as we hear watch keepers on ships calling each other deciding how they are going to pass each other.
Our first day off the coast we managed to have a noon to noon run of 188 nautical miles, which is not too bad for a 38 foot boat! Our second noon to noon run has been 199 nautical miles - again quite a reasonable run. Let's see what the next few days bring. We have had wind ranging from 15 knots to 35 knots, which has churned up the sea and made conditions quite bouncy at times but the conditions do flatten out quite quickly once the wind drops below 20 knots. Fortunately, the wind is from behind and we are running with the wind and sea.
I mentioned the fishing lures above. Our freezer is now full of Dorado and Tuna so we have stopped putting out our fishing lines for a few days, until we have eaten at least some of it. Andries is the fish cook and has kept us well fed on some well prepared fish dishes with Hardy using the Yellowfin Tuna he caught for sashimi, which is not my favourite food - I prefer my fish cooked!
And a quick addition to the above - whilst sleeping this morning after my night watch, Andries wanted some fun and put out the lines again. The result is three more Yellowfin Tuna and more sashimi for the lads for lunch.
As we get closer to the Caribbean the conditions for email via the HF radio are improving with stronger and clearer signals. Hopefully I will be able to include a photograph every now and then to add to the blog reports as the signals get better.
Thanks to those folk who have taken the time to read my ramblings and to the few folk who have posted comments. My thanks also to a fellow HAM in Cape Town, Deon (ZS1ZL), who lets me know if there are any comments and keeps us updated on what is happening "news wise" back home.
Until next the next blog entry, regards from all three of us aboard A4001. John.