We have spent the last 3 days in Eternal fjord(Evighedsfjord ), so named as it is some 50nm long with 4 tight bends in it so in an old sailing ship it must have seemed endless. At the entrance was the original Danish trading settlement of Sukkertoppen. We arrived in low cloud hiding the upper half of the snowy peaks and with persistent rain and drizzle. We idled away two days doing some maintenance and reading or knitting. Then two nights ago we awoke to Northern lights and at 5 in the morning the gentle rasping of a thin crust of ice breaking against the hull, a clear cold enough night for the first freezing this autumn of the sea to occur in our sheltered anchorage. At breakfast we were presented with a fantastic view of the surrounding peaks, with enough dusting of fresh snow to show the odd small avalanche. We did not feel fit enough to attempt an alpine route of 1,500m so we settled on a long walk up to a 600m rocky peak for the views. The terrain here is hard, and on our return, along the waters edge, we were slowed by a kilometre wide ancient fan of huge boulders that blocked our way and we spent a considerable amount of time and energy picking our tired feet up, over, around, under and through the various obstacles. Whilst amongst the boulders we came across two shelters built of stone; they were tiny, barely big enough for a child to sleep in, it makes you wonder how small the original Greenlanders were and when they were last slept in? Autumn is fully on its way, the leaves of the shrubs and plants now a delightful golden or copper, there are still enough blueberries to collect and we gathered sufficient to make a sponge cake layered with marzipan and berries. Most of the birds have now departed, but there are still a few Mallards and Snow Buntings flocking. Of mammals we have seen none but, we have heard the occasional fox bark, hare and Lemmings are evident only by the occasional dropping. We have stopped carrying the rifle now, there are no bears on this part of the West coast, insufficient seals and too many locals sporting rifles! The photo is from the top of our hill, Destiny is the small spec at about 2 oclock from my head.