The entry to Lolowai was in fact as tricky as we thought. When we arrived, three hours prior to high tide, there was 2.4 metres over the entry through the reef - we draw 2.6 metres! We anchored off the bay in gusts of up to 35 knots, and John went in to check the depths as the tide rose, using our hand-held sounder in the dinghy. About an hour before high tide we found 3.2 metres and slowly entered, without incident, along the leads which indicate deepest water. Lolowai is blissfully quiet for a yacht - no swell, almost no wind, and good holding in sand.
The day after arrival we went up to Saratamata, the provincial admin centre, and took part in the Indpendence Day celebrations. There was a flag-raising, singing, politicians giving "tok-tok" to the villagers ad nauseam, and then sport - soccer, volleyball, bocce, you name it - and a great big feast free to all - stews, tapioca, yam, manioc, greens, cake and cordial. We had a terrific time and were welcomed warmly by the locals, and by a US Peace Corps worker and a Kiwi volunteer who helps trying to develop tourism to the island. Here are some photos of the day - click here.
The next day we went over to the hospital - the province's biggest but which has no doctor and hasn't regularly had one since independence thirty years ago. Nurses only, and they do a great job with very limited resources.
Our next move is to Luganville on Espiritu Santo - not quite the big smoke, but some form of internet and some normal shops! We'll keep you posted.
Cheers from us!