A Fortuitous Arrival Time
23 June 2008 | Port Resolution, Tanna Island
John and Shauna
After a longer journey than anticipated we entered Port Resolution, Tanna Island, Vanuatu this morning (Monday 23 June) at 07:00, helped by some advice on the VHF from "Obelia" who have been here a few days. The bay is protected by a narrow opening, with reefs on both port and starboard sides, and opens into a wide anchorage with 4 to 5 metres depth throughout. There are shoals deep in the bay, but it is not tricky once you are in. We anchored in 5.5 metres at high tide, but put out 25 metres of chain for security. Coming up the coast of the island before dawn we were treated to an awe-inspiring display from Yasur, the volcano which is inland a little from the coast here. Every minute or two, a deep orange glow developed in the depths of the peak, then it turned bright hot orange then yellow, and what looked like lumps of rock or solidifying lava shot high into the air, along with large volumes of smoke. Waves of a sulphurous burnt smell came out to sea on the breeze. Oddly enough it wasn't that unpleasant. Then, as we turned into the anchorage we caught sight of several smoke or gas vents emerging from the ground along the sides of the bay and the adjacent coast, sending clouds of water vapour and other gases into the atmosphere. Yes, I can hear the question you are asking - we did research the area prior to coming here and it is stable and safe geologically! It was a good day to arrive; four of the boys from the village have just been in the forest having their initiation into manhood through various "custom" rituals including ritual circumcision and other secret rituals. Today is the day of the feast for their welcome into manhood. This morning, shortly after we arrived, we went ashore with the other yachties and witnessed the gathering of everyone in the community for the killing of the pigs and cattle that will be used in tonight's feast. It was brutal and unceremonious, then the animals were loaded one at a time onto the back of a hilux ute and taken to various families in the village to prepare. The animals were laid down on the ground and roughly chopped into large chunks. Some bits were then cut off and chopped up for inclusion in Lap Lap - a local delicacy combining starch, vegetable and meats. Others were marinated while others seemed just to be left lying around, for barbecuing over wood fires or hot stones tonight. For practical purposes there is no electricity let alone refrigeration here in Resolution. We have all been invited to the feast but will likely eat on board later! Or maybe we will try the yam, taro and sweet potato dishes we saw in preparation. The chief of the village, Ronny, was very welcoming and gave us permission to walk freely to the beaches and other spots of interest around his village. He speaks very good English, as do most Tanna people who have been to primary school. He did tell us very sternly that if any of the young men asked us to let them come onto our boats for a beer we must refuse as he doesn't like his people drinking. The village is basic in the extreme and the people are just dirt poor - they sleep on banana leaf mats on a bare floor and have no electricity, running water or other conveniences. There are several stand-pipes around the village where they obtain water by hand pumping. However they are all apparently not just content, but really seem to love their place here. The whole place is organised around family relationships and having a place in the scheme of things, defined by your relatives and your contribution to the common good. There is what is called the Port Resolution Yacht Club which is basically a couple of well-built, semi-opensided huts with a few tables and some memorabilia from yachts that have passed through here. Stanley runs the place for the community, helped by his brother Werry, and a cousin who cooks local meals for yachties by arrangement. There is nothing in it for them but it is their contribution to the village, and is a way of bringing cash into a basically cash-free local economy. We have started our anti-malarial tablets and will be very vigilant here with screens and Tropical Aerogard, as Falciparum Malaria is endemic throughout Vanuatu. Tomorrow we are off to Lenakel, the capital of the island, to do the Customs formalities - this will unfortunately take most of the day as it is a 2.5 hour ute trip each way. The day after, we will probably take a trip to meet Mount Yasur face to face on a tour. We'll let you know how all that goes!