We have been happily ensconced here in Port Resolution for 4 days now. There is so much to tell it would take a book, and we have only touched the surface. But we'll give you a few indicators of what's been happening. When last we wrote, Monday, we had suffered the pleasure of the pig slaughter and looked around the village a little. That night the villagers and those from surrounding villages gathered for "Custom dance" - a night of meeting friends, chatting, exchanging gifts and a slowly increasing pace of celebratory activity: The young men performed a long series of group dances, accompanied only by their own voices - some in traditional dress, others in ARL jerseys or Hard Rock Cafe T-shirts. Then the young women started to join in, in increasing numbers, and everyone had a great time - lots of laughing and simple, joyful social interaction. The girls who were looking for husbands wore a long feather in their hair. One of the young men came around to us every so often with a large plate in his hand, asking "You want taro, or you want cow?". We consistently chose the taro, having seen how the cow was handled and prepared during the day. One of the locals showed a great but polite interest in Eric's wife Jan, quite shyly and harmlessly, but then another local noticed this and explained with a smile "Hed blong im no strait - tumas kava". The villagers rarely get big serves of protein and this was a chance for them to let rip and they certainly took the opportunity, demolishing prodigious quantities of "cow" and "pig". Their stamina was much more than ours, and while most of the yachties apologetically withdrew during the evening, the show continued until 5 or 6 in the morning. Next morning, bright and early, one of the local boys picked us up from the "Yacht Club" and we were off to Lenakel to clear in with Customs. The two hour drive to Lenakel was a revelation. Unbelievably lush and vigorous rainforest with large stands of farmed coconuts and bananas alternated with small farms producing taro, sweet potato and vegetables such as bok choy in quantities and size that looked almost unnaturally large and prolific. All along the dirt road to town little children stood and waved, women walking to market smiled and waved, and everyone seemed just delighted to see us, as if our bumping our way down the track past their school or village, in the open back of the ute, was what they had been hoping for all day. Our driver, Tawa, a 17 year old who "almost has his licence" stopped every few miles so we could take photos. Then we crossed the ash plain surrounding Yasur volcano, This was a stark grey lunar landscape, with not a blade of grass, no strong geographical features, just a thick and constantly replenished carpet of grey-black fine ash. No road is possible as the ash covers it immediately so Tawa just made it up as he went. Then back to farms, coffee plantations and rainforest over the spine of the central mountains, and on the leeward side of the island we descended towards Lenakel. On that side of the island it is drier and cooler but still verdant and fertile. Check-in involved visits to the offices of Quarantine, Immigration and Customs and also involved filling out many, many forms giving roughly the same information over and over again - number on board, names, date of birth, passport numbers, how much alcohol, any guns, any automatic weapons...... The ultimate outcome of the process was to satisfy the officers that we weren't spreading sedition, drugs or pornography, and to seal the deal with cash - 10,000 Vatu (about $120 AUD) - and we started back towards Port Resolution. Yesterday we visited the school. The principal is Lokin, a serious and dedicated man who did his training in the capital, Port Vila, and who manages his school in exemplary fashion given his resources which, are roughly speaking, nil. They have 150 pupils from K to year 8. The government pays the salaries for him and the teachers, but provides nothing else. The classrooms are just the simplest of structures, thatched banana leaf roof and walls, openings for windows, and that's it. One room has an ancient blackboard but little else. No lighting, no electricity, few textbooks, almost no writing materials or paper, and yet the kids are keen and well-disciplined. Classes start at 07:30 and there is a long lunch break then back to it until 15:00. Then they study and do homework until dark as there is no way to study after sundown. Years 7 and 8 live in, in dormitories, even though they live in the village - this way Lokin can keep them on the right track scholastically. Peter and Ruth Carter had worded us up in advance about the schooling situation in Vanuatu, so we brought lots of pencils, pens, exercise books and rulers etc, and some materials for the teachers. These were graciously and enthusiastically received - we were asked to sign the Visitors' Book and given a tour of the school by the principal. We will send much more when we get home. What they really need is cash, to buy in a generator for lighting or study and to help with modern teaching aids such as AV presentations and so on. As for a laptop, well that would be heaven on a stick for these lovely people. Last night we had a visit to Yasur, the volcano - really exciting - more of that next time! Bye for now (and thanks for the e-mails - they are really welcome)