We're writing from a very snug anchorage - Esema Bay - at the north-eastern end of Havannah Harbour. The "harbour" is in fact a long passage between Efate and the islands of Lelepa and Moso, which both lie on the northern side of the harbour. We are in about 16 metres of water and are quite protected from the SE wind which is blowing quite strongly at the moment and may continue to do so until Thursday. The water here is clean and clear - aquamarine and inviting. There are numerous turtles in the bay, which surface from time to time for air and to take a look around. We are sharing the anchorage with two Kiwi boats - "Matin d'Or" and "Integrity". We had a great dinner on Matin d'Or last night. They have run out of tonic for their gin, and are resorting to inventive substitutes such as coconut liquid from green coconuts - desperate times breed desperate measures! We met the couple from Integrity this afternoon and found them to be very impressive, down-to-earth and hospitable people. Their boat is very nice - a modern design with very broad beam giving lots of volume down below, great for living space. Maybe not deep enough in the cross- sections for John, but very seaworthy-looking. Today we went ashore with Allan and Ian from Matind'Or to meet with a couple of the villagers who are trying to raise money to build a new church from concrete blocks. They will be moulding the blocks themselves from local sand, and cement from Vila. Ian is a builder and will be drawing up some plans for them, and will send these and some engineering and construction details from Sydney when he gets home in a week or so. Later we took the dinghy up the little river which runs into the bay. It is quite shallow and the locals cross it to get to their "gardens" - the plots where they grow their vegetables and fruit. It was not long past low tide so we found we had to pivot the outboard up from about 150 metres in, and row the rest of the kilometre or so that we were able to make it up the river before fallen trees and river rocks stopped us. The scenery was fantastic and the water was clear as it ran over rocks, sand and hordes of little fish which scattered as we glided over them. Coming back downstream we just had to guide the dinghy with the oars without paddling as the flow was quite strong. We will put some nice pics of this on the blog when next we have internet - which may be a couple of weeks away. This is a very quiet anchorage without any significant roll and we slept like lambs last night - looking forward to it again tonight! Hope all at home are well. Cheers from us.