Last time we wrote we had not long arrived in Esema Bay. The locals there were, as everywhere in Vanuatu, friendly and cheerful. Across the channel from the anchorage is Moso Island. There is a large village there - Tassiriki Village. There is no natural water supply on Moro other than any recent rains - no rivers or creeks, no lakes or dams. So the villagers paddle across the channel, through quite strong currents and sometimes significant swells, every day to Meten Village, with whom they share gardens for growing vegetables and fruit. These are used locally or sent to the market in Port Vila. Each morning we woke to hear them paddling past the anchored yachts, singing local songs and clearly enjoying what for most of us would be an effort we wouldn't tolerate. They share the dignity we see repeatedly here - they want to trade, sometimes to sell, but almost never do they simply put their hand out and ask for something. If they want some fuel clothing or food, or if a fisherman has an outboard and needs fuel, they will always offer something of value to them in return. John went up the channel in the dinghy yesterday to troll a line and caught a 3 kilo trevally - not what we call good eating, but certainly a meal for a family. Returning to "Destiny" in the dinghy he came across a villager from Tassiriki paddling home with some vegetables. John asked him if he would like the fish, and he grinned broadly in acceptance, then reached around into his canoe and produced a couple of very large and perfect lettuce in exchange - John took one, about all we could use. We visited Tassiriki yesterday; the chief is David, and he runs a tight ship - the village is really clean and neat; the houses, although rudimentary and spartan, are well-maintained and everyone takes great pride in their community. When we went ashore, one of the young men - Nolan - took us under his wing and showed us the village, the school and the little clinic. We had brought ashore some clothing and packaged food as gifts, and the chief's daughter gave Shauna a colourful local "Mother Hubbard" dress in return. The wind has dropped significantly and so today we weighed anchor and sailed through the narrow pass between Lelepa and Moso Islands, only about 150 metres wide, with reefs either side, out into open water and had a pretty wonderful reach to Sulua Bay on Emae Island. We arrived close to dark and didn't get to go ashore but will take the dinghy over to the village in the morning - we'll let you know what we find.