It was 120 nm from Cape Barren island to Schouten passage with a significant portion slowed by adverse flood tide past Swan island. Consequently, despite departure at first light we arrived off Schouten passage at midnight in 33 kts of NE wind pushing us hard onto the coast. Wild seas. The passage is 0.5nm wide and we have never been in before. A lee shore of massive granite cliffs either side. Oh, did I mention it was pitch black with no moon. All one can see is a large mass blocking out the stars directly ahead of the bow. Hmmm. Should we go all the way around Schouten island instead and come into the anchorage from the west. Its at least another 10 miles and plenty of other rocky hazards in those miles.
A redeeming factor was the nav beacon on Schouten reef some miles to the west of the passage. We caught a glimpse of it just outside the passage so we were reasonably sure that there was a gap in the land! Of course, it was radar o'clock. The radar overlay on the electronic chart was spot on. A second redemption. Diomedea bucked her way through the now chaotic backwash seas returning from the cliff lines as we plunged into the dark mass ahead of us. Andrea stood up looking ahead out of the glow of the instruments to preserve night vision. She had the big spotlight in her hand but the salt spray in the air rendered it useless.
I was at the helm, glued to the radar screen and depth sounder. Night vision totally gone, so I see nothing else. First waypoint just outside the gap ... confidence levels still not good. Push on. Ten degree turn to starboard aiming for mid point in the gap. Radar returns very solid on the chart now ... I am feeling better. Soundings excellent. Suddenly the waves moderate and the wind begins to fade. I feel the weight of the cliffs above us as we escape the constriction and we are through. Unbelievably the temperature of the air shoots up 5-10 degrees almost immediately and we peel the heavy watch coats. The anchorage is only a stone's throw now and is windless. The bay is festooned with 20 boats as we thread our way to rest and a glass of wine. Here's to Diomedea.
What we did not know was that we had managed to miss all the lobster pots set right across the passage, as you can see in the picture. From Bryans corner we re-anchored the next day at Schouten island to hide from a southerly. Climbed Bear Hill for outstanding views. Our medical skills were also brought into play when we helped effect a helicopter rescue of a lady with a fractured tibia and fibula. Very exciting as the chopper did not land, winching people up and down instead.