David
12/05/2008, At Pangaimotu Island, Tonga

We're here. Yippee. We were still 40 miles out from the island of Tongatapu at dusk on Sunday night and after careful analysis of the harbour chart it was decided that a night entry through the coral reefs was a really bad idea so we stood off for the evening. A few lights had been seen in the early hours of the morning as we approached. However, the island itself is very flat and even at daybreak was not visible at a range of seven miles. We soon picked up the leads to Egeria channel on the western side and after a sinuous course around Atata island Diomedea was into the large harbour area. This is about six miles across. Of course, every time Diomedea makes port, Neptune is there to welcome her. A massive grey cloud swooped on us, the heavens open and the wind blew in at 25 knots. Visibility was reduced dramatically as we approached several menacing reefs. On went the radar. Thankfully the combo of radar and GPS allowed us to continue on course and by 9.30 we had the hook down a hundred metres off the shore of Pangaimotu island. This island is only about 1.2 miles from the port of Nukulofa and is gorgeous. A nice yellow sand and small jetty encourage weary yachties ashore to sample the delights of Big Mama's Yacht Club. Clearing customs was a doddle fortunately and after some tidying up we made our way to the bar. John and Moira were lucky enough to be able to obtain a beach fale (bure) and chose the shore accomodation alternative. I must say it sounded quite appealing to me as well. We had a brief nap in the afternoon on board and then an excellent meal of swordfish with some of the other boats. Back on board the harbour was mirror smooth for the night and I slept like a deadman. Andrea was not so lucky, seeming to attract every mosquito in the archipelago. Must get more mossie netting! We are expecting more of the fleet in today and tomorrow.

04. New Zealand to Tonga

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David
10/05/2008, 21 57S 176 12WEST

Today, Sunday, we spotted the southernmost island of Tonga, known as 'Ata. It is about 80 miles south of Tongatapu and is quite mountainous. It is now uninhabited but had a population in the mid 1800's. The population was removed to the main island following some particularly sordid examples of "blackbirding" or kidnapping and slavery. Over the last 24 hours we have held a remarkably constant breeze of 18-25 westerly and have continued to reach on just jib and staysail alone. We manage 7-8 knots on this combination and the pilot has an easy time of steering. The seas have continued to be rough with a large SW swell making things a bit rolly. It is now quite hot on board, being 30 deg in the cabin and 30 deg in the water! Out in the cockpit it is very pleasant, although Neptune occasionally gives us a big wet sloppy kiss. We have celebrated with appropriate consultations the double digit remainder of the course. It is now only 70 odd miles to go. Unfortunately, our arrival will be about 1 in the morning so we will have to stand off until daybreak. We will have the company of at least one other rally boat during the night. One rally boat, a fast cat, made port this morning. Behind us the fleet is strung out over hundreds of miles of ocean. One boat has been on sea anchor for several days and upon attempted retrieval of the anchor fouled the line. The anchor line has passed between the twin bilge keels and the parachute is open astern. This has held the boat stern to the wind of 50+ knots and associated seas. It is not yet known whether the problem has been resolved but attempts at cutting the chute away were being made this morning. We hope that they can get going soon and our hearts have gone out to them in what must be a very exhausting time for the crew of two. They have just started the first leg of a world circumnavigation and truly it will have been a baptism of fire. As for us, we have eaten well, even too well, so little weight loss encountered aboard Diomedea. Our biggest problem has been that the milk frother in the cappuccino machine is only producing lattes instead of caps. Beastly.

04. New Zealand to Tonga

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David
09/05/2008, 24 28S 179 02WEST

Perhaps the thing that has been best learned this voyage is that if a cloud looks like a roll cloud, then it is. We had fast sailing most of yesterday but progressively shortened sail down to triple reefed main and staysail. The barometer dropping all the time. About 4.30pm a large frontal cloud appeared coming out of the SW. We got the main down just as the 46 knots hit. The sea was smoking and the rain torrential. Fortunately our course was not dramatically affected by the frontal passage and we continued running before it. The wind oscillated between 25-33 knots so we just plugged along under staysail. About 8pm the sky was crystal clear but seas were building. The sked at 7.30 was a harrowing saga to listen to. Most of the rally boats are behind us and were trapped in a tight isobar bend with winds up to 50+ knots. Three boats went to sea anchor and several others hove to. Unfortunately the conditions for them did not improve overnight and there has been some stressed-sounding voices on the HF chatline this morning. There is one boat not heard from for 36 hours. We have abandoned any idea of the Minerva reefs as they would be a lee shore in this weather situation so we are now making a course direct to Tonga which is now only 270nm away. Just a bit more than a Coffs race. Our forecast is good with continued 20 knot westerly moderating as we approach the island. The ancient order of Wrist Gimblers has inducted two new members, John the Pommy Bar Stud and Musical Moira. We celebrated their ascension to the ranks with a consultation from Dr Montana.

04. New Zealand to Tonga

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David
08/05/2008, 26 16S 179 07E

Yesterday was a very mixed bag of conditions. We sailed for a while in a light SE breeze before passing through a trough. Instead of a big hit of wind, the trough killed it completely and we were back to motoring in dead calm. However, about 0230hr a nice SW breeze filled in from the big low crossing NZ and we have been riding 15-20kts since then. We have about 160nm to go to the Minerva reefs but it now seems unlikely that we will stop there as the anchorages/entrances are lee shores in westerly flow. From the Minervas it is another 250nm to Tongatapu. We have not seen any other boats now for days but we did manage to wrangle a school of flying fish this morning. The sunset last night was quite extraordinary. The gold embroidered clouds on the western horizon looked like a mountainous archipelago. The glow of the fading light seemed to last for hours, like the sun got stuck. Absolutely magic. We spoke with Waverunner this morning as they head on a NNW course to Vanuatu. They got 45kts from the NW overnight and did not sound too pleased as you can well imagine. I can report no leaks so far but there has been not much water on the deck. As it should be! The water temperature here is over 27 degrees. Almost time for a swim. (Only joking - dont get off the boat in the middle of the ocean) We had an unexpected radio call last night all the way from Ballina on NSW north coast. Caballero, owned by Rachel and Adam, called for a chat and it was really wonderful to hear from them. I am still amazed at the transmission of HF radio signals.

04. New Zealand to Tonga

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David
07/05/2008, 29 50S 176 35E

We have had a gorgeous day sailing, if you discount the complete absence of breeze. Light and variable has been the order of the day, but we have not yet had to throw the horses overboard. Sunset has just evolved to the west and in the east there has been a remarkable palette of purples and pinks. The horizon is dead flat forever. A tiny swell rolls in from the SW. Occasional catspaws tease us with the promise of wind, but leave just as quickly, their false claims unfulfilled. Diomedea motors on into the dusk. It looks like a quiet night ahead. The ocean seems devoid of life. No whales, dolphins, sharks, or any tug on our trolling line. A baby flying fish was found on deck this morning as the only indicator of the submarine universe. No other boats for that matter. We are making course of about 018 magnetic toward the South Minerva reef with four hundred miles behind us now from Opua. We chatted with a few boats this morning but radio reception generally has been poor. We have begun putting diesel from the jerry cans into the tank as we are clearly going to need the extra 120 litres. Some minor repairs to the spin pole beak were carried out but otherwise we have been lolling about in the sun, reading, and sleeping. I am reminded of the tune "Song to a Siren" : Long adrift on a shipless ocean......sail to me....here I am The new moon has just cut her clean arc of light in the sky tonight. I hope your sky is as friendly as ours is this evening of stillness. David

04. New Zealand to Tonga

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David
05/05/2008, 32 31 S 175 10 E

All day with the boat running wing and wing. Fantastic. We are doing 7-8 knots before 15-20 SSW breeze and trying to get north to avoid the next low due in the area on Thursday. It has been lovely sailing today. The wind will go light tonight and we will probably have to motor tomorrow, There are no longer any boats visible around us but perhaps tonight we willl see their lights. We had a brief chat on the HF radio with a few boats but still no sign of Windflower, our fearless leader's yacht. Andrea has baked some bread and we are looking forward to woofing it down. The freezer is still not working to our satisfaction but otherwise everything else is in order. We will do the next sked with Des on 6516 at 0730 UTC. That's 5.30pm in Sydney. Cheers

04. New Zealand to Tonga

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