Primum Non Nocere
17 August 2015 | Corinth Canal
David and Andrea
A flat water motor in calm conditions took us from Poros to Palaia (old) Epidhavros. We stern tied in the attractive port against a low cliff. As temperatures backed off, we went ashore for the 15 minute taxi ride to the Doric temple complex of Asklepios built in 380BCE. This temple dedicated to the god of healing was accompanied by a large private hospital, baths and temples to other deities such as Artemis, Aphrodite, and Themis. The imposing amphitheatre was built around 340BCE. It has 13,000 seats and is in excellent condition. It is used today for performances. Sadly none were on during our brief visit.
Asklepios introduced the serpent "python" into medical therapeutics it seems and the snake wrapped around his rod has survived into modern times as a symbol of healing.
This is sometimes confused with the caduceus which is a rod entwined by two snakes and topped by wings. Mythology has the caduceus carried by Hermes/Mercury. This is a symbol of commerce, negotiation and printing. Non-venomous snakes were said to be used in healing rituals at the Asclepion complex. A display depicted a medical record indicating that a young woman suffering infertility attended the temple and was treated with snakes, but we wondered what species. Another Asclepion is to be found on the rather too popular island of Kos, just off Bodrum. This was apparently where Hippocrates treated the ill. All of this is important for us as doctors. The original Hippocratic oath from the 5th century BCE began; "I swear by Apollo the Physician and by Asclepius and by Hygieia and Panacea and by all the gods ..." A modern one was written in 1964 with a more secular turn but still referring to God. Yes, written by an American of course. I have, like many others, thought for years that the oath included the phrase, "First of all do no harm.", but in fact the original and modern one do not have this wording. It can be found in a tome from Hippocrates school of medicine I am informed. Nonetheless, it is the exemplary philosophy for medical practice.
This became our penultimate day in the Aegean Sea as we headed off to Corinth for the transit of the famous canal. An abortive attempt at building the canal was made in the 1st century CE but work only really got underway in the 1880s before completion in 1893. The canal is 6.4km long, 21.4m wide at its base and 79m high at its deepest point. It is a maintenance nightmare due to instability of the walls. Vigorously defended by the British, it was ultimately trashed by the Germans during their retreat from Greece in 1944. Repair teams had it reopened in 1948. It always was and is a commercial failure (despite the euro252 we were charged). Irrespective of the chequered past, the 30 minute through trip is very unique and exciting. Just watch out for the bungee jumpers.
With Diomedea in the Corinth Gulf, the new western face of Greece began to reveal herself. Our first stop was the stunning Ormos Dhomvrainos on the northern side. The beauty of this bay held us in her sway for 3 nights as we searched (in vain) for Perseid meteor showers, dived in the mix of fresh water streaming from subterranean rivers into the salt water of the bay, and rode out a thunderstorm. We met the crew of Reflection of Hayling, circumnavigators and OCC port officers. Wonderful folk. The rig cleaning process continued here as well. David has had a nice chemical peel from all the oxalic acid and now looks 20 years younger. Pictures in Photo Gallery RHS of this page.