Wed 11 Jul 2012
On mooring in Scituate, MA

[photo: sailors getting ready for the Wed night race]

The wind blew moderately, but apparently steadily, through the night near 8 knots out of the SW. When we dropped the mooring pennant at 0640, it was a short run past Long Point and then we were motor-sailing. As forecast, the wind lessened and then moved from SW to NE over several hours as a weak front passed, so for the middle of the almost 6 hour run, we were strictly motoring.

We were passed by the first fast ferry from Boston to P'town around 3 hours into the passage and I remarked that it would get to town, unload, load, and pass us again before long - and it did. Thanks to the AIS system on our VHF radio, I could see that the one ferry makes 28 knots and the other 31.5 knots.
When the wind was near calm, the water was a quite beautiful shade of green, not being deep enough to be blue. Passing a whale watch ship, we kept a sharp lookout for whales, but saw none. It was surprising that even in 190 feet of water, there were lobster pots.

We arrived in beautiful sunshine, by the way, at Scituate, MA just after noon and had difficulty with all the different organizations offering moorings. We finally got the "Boat Club" and at first impression by the launch operator, we are glad with this choice.

Following lunch, we called for the launch and took our bikes ashore. First we rode to the lighthouse where we met some friendly locals and then some friendly folks from PA, where we used to live. We next rode along the waterfront street into town, and were quite impressed with what this little town offers to cruisers. Within a short distance from the harbor there was a big grocery store, 2 liquor stores, a hardware store, and quite a few bars and restaurants. It looked like the marine supply store was going out of business, although there may be another somewhere nearby.

The homes near the waterfront almost all have cedar shake siding. We asked a local if it was an aesthetic requirement and he said it was just what held up the best in their harsh winters. When we complimented him on his lovely home and lawn, and what a pretty town it was, he smiled and said to come back in winter when it is icy and freezing and he is in his Vero Beach, FL condo.

After our ride, it was time for the traditional stop to get a beer. The only 2 stools left at the outside bar overlooking the harbor placed Diane next to a single young woman and Duane next to a sailor of about his age. We each had interesting conversations for the next hour. As we were leaving, we ran into that PA couple again and gave them our boat card since they wanted to follow our blog.

With all due respect to the citizens of other places we have visited in the northeast, we have met more friendly local people here than in any place since we left VA. The people are generally friendly and helpful enough if you should approach them, but it has been an absolute rarity that anyone would ever say hello or make the first effort for conversation. It may just stem from a widespread custom of "minding your own business."

Back at the Satuit Boat Club that manages our mooring, we were intrigued to see dozens of people of all ages milling around. It was Wed night and there was a weekly sailboat race. We shared the launch with quite a few people as they got to their boats and passed many more already on their boats getting ready. It was quite a parade as they left the short harbor to get into the ocean for the race in decent winds. Once again, you get a strong sense that these New England folks, perhaps partly because of their short sailing season, really make the most of it.

Dinner was sliced roast beef converted into cheese steaks on flat bread, with delicious fresh peas. We both read in the cockpit for a while, but Duane did something quite unusual in closing his eyes below and not waking up until after dark when Diane came below for bed. Rather than attempt to stay awake, I just went right to bed and slept until 0600. I must have needed it.

Tomorrow we leave for Marblehead to sample its offerings.