Chasing That Horizon!

The sun has just barely risen, though it is mostly obscured by clouds. Patches of snow lay on the ground like a quilt work punctuated by alternating patches of weed and gravel. Mountains surround us, seeming to block our path, as we meander our way through the rocky passes. We are in the Uintas mountains, passing southeast of Salt Lake City. The city itself, lay behind us in the pre-dawn darkness. I vaguely recall opening my eyes from a disturbed sleep, as we sat in the rail yard. The coach power would switch off and back on, each time shutting down the ventilation system, allowing the perfume of a nearby passenger to overpower my sinuses with a throat-constricting sensation, only to be saved as it switched back on and moved the air again. Sleep comes in short snatches, interrupted by the bump of a track switch, the lurch of the coach, the discomfort of the seat, or the coldness of the aforementioned life-saving ventilation. This is the California Zephyr, Amtrak No.6, traveling from Emeryville, CA to Chicago. We boarded in Reno, as that fit our travel plans better, though at the expense of not seeing the trip through the Sierras. No matter, we've seen that before by train and countless times by car.

Now that the sun is fully up, one can see the landscape as it passes by. The high desert of Utah seems mostly barren, save the short patches of grass, eroded hills, and utility poles. The town of Helper, a short stop along the line, looked like a ghost town of abandoned homes, construction equipment, and cars, notably two rusted 1956 Chevys, waiting to be picked by an eager restorer. Green River is next, another hour down the tracks.

This is not the way to travel if you wish to get there quickly. Our highest speed was 70mph, and we are currently doing 27.8mph. But it's different. There are no billboards, rest stops, or idiot drivers. Just sit, relax, and enjoy the view. The train isn't very full, so we can spread out. There is the lounge car, diner, and cafe. And there are plenty of restrooms, so no stopping needed.

This leg will take us to Chicago, where we will then board The City of New Orleans. Another overnight trip will take us to The Big Easy, where we will enjoy a few days. But for the moment, I have Creedence Clearwater Revival in my head as we enter Green River. Perhaps tomorrow it will be Arlo Guthrie.