02/02/2006, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
Staniel Cay is a delightful place with good anchorages for all conditions and terrific shorkeling. Thunderball Grotto is nearby where scenes from several movies have been shot, including James Bond's Thunderball during the 60's. At low tide you can swim into the cave where there are coral formations, hundreds of all kinds of fish and sunlight comes through holes in the top. It was amazing.
One of the more unusual things on Staniel Cay is the group of pink pigs that live on one of the beaches. They actually swim out to dinghys and will eat most anything you give them.
The Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a very welcoming restaurant and bar, has free internet access. Everyone sits around the bar having a drink and looking at email, etc. We made reservations for dinner one night and I had the best lobster I've gotten since I arrived in the Bahamas. When you make a reservation, you also tell them what you want to eat. They have one seating each night at 7:30 and ring a dinner bell when they are ready to serve (I kid you not!). You need to make reservations at many of the restaurants in these smaller places. I don't think this is because they are crowded as much as they want to know how much food to prepare.
Since Paul was still coughing, etc, we went in searh of help at the local clinic which turned out to be closed becase the nurse had retired. However, when we happened to walk by the building later that day, they we open. A doctor and a couple of nurses from another island had come over for the afternoon. The doctor listened to Paul's chest and determined he did not have pneumonia, but probably needed more antibiotics because of a lingering sinus infection. He has finished these and is finally over the flu, which our wonderful grandchildren shared with us in California at Christmas.
We were also able to get a few fresh vegetables and fruit at the local market. Shopping on the smaller islands that actually have stores is very interesting. The first time I make a list of what I would like. However, the reality is that you have to take what you get, or rather what the boat has brought this week. So it's better not to get your heart set on any one thing, but go with the flow and take what you get. Luckily, Paul is keeping us well supplied with fresh fish.
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01/31/2006, Pipe's Creek, Bahamas
The fishing greatly improved here at Pipe's Creek. Paul and Menno had great luck in the dinghy and came home with one each Mahi Mahi, Bonito, Tuna, and Barracuda. Hardly room for the people with all the fish. Another day Paul caught a Wahoo with four other guys. That night we had a pot luck on our boat and grilled some of the Wahoo. John, a friend from one of the other boats, also fixed sushi, a real treat! A most pleasant evening.
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01/28/2006, Exuma Land and Sea Park, Warderick Wells, Bahamas
We finally caught up with our cruising partners, Menno and Val Baars and their sons, Daniel and John, at the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The boys were very excited because we had some Christmas presents that were sent to us while we were still in FL. If our original plans had all happened on schedule, we would have caught up with them about two weeks ago. But high winds caused several delays. Needless to say, Daniel and John were very excited to get their presents. John even got a birthday present because he turned 7 on January 13.
This land and sea park is about 22 miles long and 8-10 miles wide and includes several small islands and the surrounding ocean. Since fishing or catching lobsters or conch is prohibited in the park, the snorkeling is supurb (although kind of frustrating to the fishermen among us). We saw really large lobsters (about 2 feet long) and lots of beautiful reef fish as well as numerous large conch. At least we were able to learn what the conch look like burried in the sand, so we can hopefully find some in places where it is legal. Conch is served several ways: conch fritters (sort of a spicy hushpuppy with diced conch), conch chowder, conch salad (where it is marinated in lime juice sort of like serviche), and cracked conch (cut in strips, breaded and fried). In all cases it is necessary to pound the conch before cooking to tenderize it (a good job for anyone with frustrations who needs to let off steam - however, there isn't too much frustration around that I have seen). If tenderized, the conch has a texture similiar to squid and a mild taste. I have read that conch are also being farmed.
We stayed on one of the moorings in the park, and had a couple of pot luck Happy Hours on the beach with several of the other boaters, complete with bonfire and marshmellows. Altogether a wonderful place to spend three days.
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01/26/2006, Norman's Cay, Bahamas
We celebrated Paul's birthday in Norman's Cay with sort of a progressive dinner on boats. We started on our boat with steaks on the grill and then moved to Tusen Takk II for dessert, complete with birthday hats, balloons and candles. In addition to Barb and Chuck Shipley on Tusen Takk II, Pat and Ted Edmunds from Seaclusion joined the fun. Barb made us some terrific boat cards with a picture of Dream Weaver that she took.
We anchored in Norman's Cay for three days while the wind blew. It was a delightful spot, and we enjoyed exploring in the dinghy, etc. This island has a colorful history, being famous as a major drug smuggling stop during the 80's and still has a nice airstrip. There is a wrecked plane on the edge of the anchorage which is now almost covered at high tide. We got stuck on the flats trying to find the dinghy route described in our book. Oh well, we simply waited for the tide to come up some. Then on the way back to our boats, the sun came out and we were able to spot the dinghy route because the deeper water is a different color. Since most of the areas here are relatively uncharted and tides cause the sand bars to shift frequently, watching the water color is often the best indicator of depth. It's a little nerve wracking, but I am beginning to feel more comfortable with it when the sun is out. When it's cloudy, we are glued to the depth guage in these areas.
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